I too second what Steve has said about adding the restriction in the bypass tube. I also installed the CASCO improved water pump that was mentioned earlier as I had the same issues with my bird that you mention. No issues since I did both these modifications..

Good luck!

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

Here’s a picture of the type of spacer I use to restore the belt alignment when removing the 1” water pump spacer on the T-Bird engines. This spacer simply sandwiches between the water pump and the front pulley to make up for the 1” that the water pump moves rearward.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

to back up what Steve said on the initial, I run 15 on my F code. Remember it has a lower static comp ratio than the 'Bird, but I had to really back off the idle when I went from factory setting. My pass car will idle all day in 90 degree humid Indiana summer days.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I've read your excellent posts on timing... that's why I mentioned it in my OP: "My engine is a fresh 292 (2Kmi), decked block, 113 heads milled for 9:1 SCR, Mummert 265 cam, Mallory unilite (mechanical only), 12 deg. BTDC @ idle. Runs very strong." Yes, no vacuum advance. 12 deg. is about as far as I want to push it.

At this point, I'm going to flush the coolant, open the thermostat housing, and drill a new hole in the manifold for the mechanical temp sender. I'll also put an orifice in the bypass line while I have things apart.. I plan on refilling with distilled water & DEI Radiator Relief. I may invest in an electric pusher fan... this seems like an inexpensive way to increase cooling, but requires half a day to R&R the grille... plus relay & wiring.

I'm not convinced that a new radiator would do any good. The block, heads and radiator were clean 9 months/2000 miles ago, and I have no reason to think they aren't clean now.

The birds use both the 2/3 -3/4 size radiator and the efficiency reducing front spacer - makes them a bit different than the sedan versions. So a bit more touchy about cooling system components........ Most guys I know with stock birds have a story or two to tell about overheating issues - easy to get things out of whack.

Skygazer what is your spark advance at idle? My outfit runs 10° initial and due to the use of live manifold vacuum on the vac advance - an additional 7° comes in for a total of 17°. This will drive the hot idle temperature downward. The Y block engine likes this high initial - and when people use a full mechanical system - or a ported vacuum system - they usually end up with a considerable initial built into their advance curve. See if your engine responds well to bit more advance at idle - just do a test and don't rev the rascal too high while you check it out. A "re-curve" might just be some of the answer....

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Greenbirds suggestion to me on a plug in the bypass line solved the heat problem in my 56 Vic. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the plug and the Mopar high flow thermostat (160 for me). After the installation I check the temp with a heat gun and find 165 at the neck and 145 at the low hose. The factory temp gauge moves quite a bit as the thermo works but knowing the real temps now doesn't bother me. Funny when our family ownd a new 56 for 6 years I never remember seeing the guage go past half way or move much at all.

He also gave me one other suggestion if I have any more trouble in "cruise" type situations and that would be to put a smaller upper water pump pully on. I looked it all up to put on a Mustang pulley with some spacers behind it for alignment but didn't need to do it.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

True enough. I will note that US Radiator uses 1/2" tubes on their copper cores, and 1" tubes on their aluminum cores. For higher efficiency on their copper radiators, they simply cram more tubes into the core.

FYI: For what it's worth, I switched to propylene after a stuck thermostat caused a similar (to skygazer's) incident when I was in an expressway traffic jamb. Though I never boiled over (running the heater/revving the motor), the end result was a leaky headgasket (orig. OEM steel). While propylene is not quite as efficient a coolant as ethylene, it DOES offer the benefit of a self-sealing effect, and won't ruin your bearings if it gets into the crankcase. The manufacturer recommends a 70% solution for most efficient cooling. I have been running it for years now with no coolant pressure (thus no more leaking) and no overheating.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I have a spray can of special black radiator paint (from Eastwood) that I had planned to use on the alum. rad. I bought, but then soon realized that the fins actually LOOK black unless viewed straight on. So, I plan to only paint the top tank & sides (in order to maintain an OEM look), but realize now I should likely use a (high-temp?) gloss black enamel instead of the thin/flat specialty paint. The better durability/appearance would likely overshadow any negative insulating factor concerning the tank, etc. alone, when using a modern upgraded aluminum radiator, especially since the motor is not really full bore modified?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

[quote][b]skygazer (4/7/2013)
I have avoided ethylene glycol because I've read that pure water actually removes heat better per unit volume (higher specific heat) than anti-freeze, even though it boils at a lower temperature.



Redline 'WaterWetter' is another choice. It lubes the pump, provides corrosion protection, and changes the surface tension reducing steam pockets. Something to consider if you want to run straight water, especially if you get dieseling when the motor is hot, but not boiling. They claim a 20-30 degree reduction in coolant temp.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA