While I have a set of neoprene gaskets I will install eventually, in the interim I wonder if anyone has discovered a way to make dry-installed cork gaskets release from the head easier? Grease does not seem to help. Silicon spray maybe? Do the neoprene ones need any treatment, or do they pop right off?

Also, has anyone found a source for plastic replacement stud grommets that won't shread and leave little neoprene threads behind?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I typically use the neoprene gaskets and have no issues in them releasing from the head.  I do glue them to the covers though so they will stay in place during installation and routine service.  Been a long time since I’ve used cork gaskets but vaguely remember using white grease on the head side of the gasket to facilitate valve cover removal without tearing.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted,



Never have a problem with tearing. It's just that after the motor has been run/warmed, the aluminum T-bird covers (cork gaskets glued to covers only) have to be whacked quite a few times with a rubber mallet to get them loose. I'll try some high quality (non drying) white grease.



Another question: I know that when original soft iron valve seats start to recede, the lash will close rapidly. In my case, #4 exhaust suddenly OPENED .010" (new rockers/friction screws). Since the lash was stable on all other rockers, and the screw seemed plenty tight, I wonder (in your experience) if badly worn heads/valves sometimes exhibit this symptom? (warped valve or dirty/carboned guide/seat?). Lash was checked cold.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Hotwrench,



I will put white grease on one cover and anti-seize on the other, and see which releases best.

I used silicon "Ultra-copper" to glue cork gaskets to covers (seems to work well) in the hope that it would come off easier when it's time to replace the gaskets. Cleaning aviation "Form-a-Gasket" off the aluminum covers was a major pain.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Daniel:

I would put a dial indicator on the offending valve and check for loss of lift, meaning a worn cam lobe.  Also, some guys have had problems with adjusting screw wear because of wrong heat treatment.  Check the pushrod for signs of wear where the adjustment screw seats.  I don't know how to check for a worn lifter without pulling it out of the engine and measuring it.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"