hello, this is my first post, I have a 239 in a 54 wagon. when I obtained the car it already had a fresh rebuild. it runs great, no leaks any where, does not smoke. however, after a couple months of use I started to get coolant in the oil, coolant level going down oil level going up. I remove the heads took them to a very reputable race engine builder In northwest Indiana, he checked them out, he did find a crack in one. the crack was repaired and he also installed bigger intake valves. he said he has repaired many heads without any problems. my engine had composite gaskets on it, much to my surprise my new gasket set from fell-pro came with steel shim gaskets? I just don't feel good about these so I ordered a set of composites from best. should I spray the composites with copper spray? I read in the forum that someone sprayed them with wd40. one last thing I would like to get opinions on, the guy that did my heads said I should set the valves across the board at .010? when I told him the factory settings he said he would still set the at .010. I don't feel good about this? I also am replacing the head bolts with correct length grade 8 bolts as one of the originals did not look good, any opinions on this? thank you for any and all input as this is my first post on the site, doug.

Stick with the factory settings for the valve adjustment..010 is too tight.Valves wont close once it warms up.

  

My engine builder prefers ARP and said a lot of his clients use grade 8 bolts but I ordered a set from John Mummert anyway. Better safe than sorry!

Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

There are 2 versions of the 239. If yours is an EBU, make sure you have the correct head gaskets. The water passages are different between the 2 versions.

  Dennis in Lititz PA

Go back to page 9 or 10 in this technical section and look up topic steel shim head gaskets. There's a picture of the differences.

  Dennis in Lititz PA

I have just posted for sale 3 steel shim head gaskets which this thread reminded me that I have with no expected use for. There are pictures with this posting also showing the differences with the normal y block gasket which are considerable. If it were mine to do I would go with steel shims if the heads and block are flat because the composite gaskets cost compression which is in short supply in a 239 anyhow.

Re valve adjustment be sure that the rocker arm surfaces that contact the valve stems are flat, this is a wear point that is often overlooked by non yblock specific mechanics. If they are not flat the valves will be noisy because they will not be adjustable with feeler gauges.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

If they are not flat there is a formula used based on # of turns outwards once the arm is in contact with the pushrod.I believe it is 1/4 of a turn.Anybody know for sure? Also works with rocker arms hat have a flat pad in contact with valve end.

  

thank you for your input, although not an expert I agree with you. sometimes I think race builders have a little different take on things?

hi mark, thank you for your input, when you say you ordered a set from mummert do you mean studs or bolts? thanks, doug.

hello dennis, my engine is an ebu, which I believe is the early version, I do have the correct gaskets. whats your take on spraying the composites w/ copper spray? thanks, doug.