Bud, that was a deal on a dist machine, but not quite as good as mine. Just before I retired one of the General Support Maintenance Company's turned in a new still in the orginal packing dist machine. It was obsolete to the military, so I followed it all the way to the DRMO yard and picked it up for $35 buck. It works like a charm.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Yeah, some times when you see a good deal, just jump on it, a few months ago I saw some brand new garrett trubo chargers someone was selling for around 200 each, I brough 5 of them... I end up keeping 2 and sell the rest back on ebay...



back on the topic of ignition, I did some more "tuning" with the distubitor this week end, end up setting my initial to 22BTDC and total at 40, It did not ping at 38 total, so I advance it 2 more, all my off the line hesitation is gone, the car pulls smooth and strong, almost like a fuel injected car. Looks like I need to re-rebuild my trak-lok diff, its only spinning 1 wheel now on dry pravement.

The weights are part of the spring question. The "mass" of the fly weights can vary the advance - heavier weights move light springs quicker, etc. Just keep your weights together as a set and vary the spring "set" to get what you want. If you don't have a distributor machine available, it will mean a few "ins and outs" of the distributor. A reloaders scale might tell you what the weights actually check out to be if its important to you.

A heavier or lighter set of weights might move the rpm to achieve full travel up - or down a 100 revs with a given set of springs. I've seen pros (using a machine not a live engine) move the spring tabs in and out - and drill holes in weights - all sorts of tricks to get the exact rpm at full travel to be just what they want.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

ya. my inital adavance is 10 degrees btdc. so total should be 36 egrees by 2500 rpm. k got it. what about those wieghts.

Stake,

          Most of us tend to run more initial than Ford recommends for better response and low end power. Total should not exceed about 36 Degrees with todays gas, all in by 2500 or so. Run vacuum advance on the street for better mileage. Every combination of weight gearing and use requires slightly different advance figures, you'll have to try to establish your own best numbers by testing and listening for spark knock (pinging).

            Holun those are great numbers, thanks.  

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

what are most of you with stock 292's setting your total advance at. and are they lighter springs making any difference or should i just keep the stock springs? also, whats the scoop on  the weights??? anybody have a diagrahm or info on the different weights numbers and the corresponding their wieghts????? i believe the wieghts i have are G1 and G3. should  i be loking for different wieghts??? i noticed the shape of the weights. does the shape of the wieghts make a difference as to how quick the advance come on???

Problem is finding those 10L ones, I could use one so I can set my initial timing at 18btdc and have 38 total mech. adv.



I remember there was a post on the duraspark advance, about how much material to add to the advance stop, I couldnt find it anymore, if someone can post the degree to inch relation that will be great.





OOps should have google it first. I found my answer





To figure approximate slot width for a given advance figure Multiply the number of desired centrifugal degrees by .013" then add .150" to account for the width of the stop pin



8L slot = 16 degrees centrifugal advance = .358"

9L slot = 18 degrees centrifugal advance = .384"

10L slot = 20 degrees centrifugal advance = .410" Total slot width

11L slot = 22 degrees centrifugal advance = .436

12L slot = 24 degrees centrifugal advance = .462"

13L slot = 26 degrees centrifugal advance = .488"

14L slot = 28 degrees centrifugal advance = .514

i'd rather just find the right one. then i dont have to do any mods like that.  hate modifing something if i dont have to. ya know

It's fairly easy to weld or braze the slots up in the advance plate. You can  measure what you have now and reduce it to whatever you've decided to use. You can also check the totals in the engine or on a distributor machine. You can also order lighter or heavier springs from Summit or Jegs to go with it.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

hey guys. I got around to tearing down my duraspark donor distributor and this is what i found for advance slots. 16L(or 18L couldnt read it) and 21L. Now, from what i have read, the those are to big. willgive me to much advance.  what distributors are the best canidates for the 10L and 13l advances? read somewhere that the big blocks are more apt to have the 10L and 13L advance slots. is this true?