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57 E-Code Tuning

Posted By EBird1 12 Years Ago
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EBird1
Posted 12 Years Ago
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After about 3 long years we now have what appears to be an assembled TBird. Smile

I was trying to locate any tuning guide help I can find especially tuning and balancing the Holly Teapots.

The engine has been rebuilt with components from Mummert and carbs redone by Recarbco.

Unable to locate the original E-code distributor so we will start with a 57 D-Code distributor. (If any one has one, let me know.)

If anyone has some pointers prior to turning the key I would really appreciate it, especially the carbs.

Thanks

Dale
Y block Billy
Posted 12 Years Ago
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What year Bird? I have a 55-56 style tach drive distributor.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

NoShortcuts
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I THINK that only two things cause the 'E' 'Birds to have a different distributor serial number:

1) different advance springs for the centrifugal advance mechanism which yield a different distributor ignition advance curve

2) different shims used in conjunction with the spring in the vacuum advance chamber to cause the diaphragm to appropriately operate with the reduced vacuum signal provided when two carburetors provide half of the vacuum signal that a single quad carburetor would provide.

My understanding is that ALL 'E' code distributors were single point units just as the 'D' code units were.

Hope this helps. Smile

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a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York
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Soooo... the carburetors have been 'rebuilt'...

Therefore,
- the correct high speed jets are in both carburetor bowls for your elevation (#45 for 0 to 15,000 ft.)
- the secondary 'venturi metering tubes' are 'correct' OR the tube openings have been silver soldered closed and re-drilled with the correct size number drill bit (#55 for 0 to 15,000 ft.)
- the correct value spring has been installed in both vacuum secondary control diaphragm chambers
- both carburetors have balance tubes installed on the fuel inlet side of the carburetor base nearest to the choke linkage side of the carburetor aluminum bases. Those tubes are connected by a vacuum hose that serves to equalize the vacuum signal to the vacuum control diaphragms to assure that the secondaries in the two carburetors open simultaneously.

IF you do a search of the Forum archive, you should locate a thread regarding the recommended procedure from Ford for adjusting
the carbs. I believe that Oldmics posted it, perhaps from a Ford service letter. -I vaguely recall that there were some specific instructions regarding adjustment of the the sychronizer piece that connects the two primary throttle shafts and the center bell crank unit.

Using the search function, I'd try 'dual quad carb tuning'

Hope this helps. Smile

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a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York
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Well... I went digging.

Info. was posted on December 7, 2011

The topic was 'e-bird 2x4s'

Info was posted in the thread by Oldmics as an attachment

Toggle the address below and it should open for you.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Attachment580.aspx


Hope this helps.



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a.k.a. Charlie Brown
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Y block Billy
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My distributor tag on the left has an: H then under that a 404, on the right it has FEA on the top, then under that it has 12127 in the red then a stamped E, I am wondering if that E means it was originally an Ecode distributor?

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Bill:

If your distributor is a loadomatic, it can't be an E code. The E code came out in '57. If your distributor is a loadomatic, if it has a single diaphragm vacuum advance, it is '55. If it has a dual diaphragm advance, it is a '56.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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Oldmics
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FEA 12127 E is a 1955 dizzy

Also for 1955 would be FEA12127F.

Oldmics
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Thanks for the clarification John and Oldmics, a 55 it is, however it is a tach drive for a bird.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

NoShortcuts
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Hi Dale,

We haven't heard back from you since your initial inquiry. I'm wondering if we answered your information request.

I've posted a piece from an earlier thread with some modifications so that it is tailored for the 'E' set-up that you're tuning. Others on this Forum who have worked more with dual quad set-ups may have additional thoughts or suggestions.

NoShortcuts (9/19/2011)
ENGINE TUNING: Valve lash should be properly set. Adjusting the carb. idle mixture is done after spark plug gaps have been set, distributor point dwell angle adjusted, and the initial ignition timing has been adjusted or checked for correctness.

Initial engine timing is adjusted and set with the vacuum advance line between the dual quad rear 'E' carb. and the distributor disconnected and closed-off with electrical tape. It is critical to set initial ignition timing with the engine at its proper engine idle rpm.

IF you have trouble getting the idle speed as low as it should be, check for vacuum leaks. I'm told that high engine idle speed with the 'E's is not uncommon. Sometimes, the high idle on the 'E's is attributable to worn throttle shafts of the Holley 4000s. OUCH!

I adjust the idle mixture screws on a carburetor with the engine at normal operating temperature using a tachometer or a vacuum gauge. I prefer the tachometer, it seems more telling of the screw adjustment. NOTE: This adjusting of idle mixture screws can take some time. Consider putting a box fan blowing air into your radiator opening to insure keeping the engine operating temperature 'normal'.

In addition to the engine being at normal operating temperature, the engine idle speed must be correct before beginning idle mixture adjustments. Check the engine idle speed with a tachometer.

For an auto. transmission car, block the wheels, put on the emergency brake, and put the car in gear to attain proper idle speed. [Alternative method... safer!.. leave the car in Park, reduce the idle rpm using the throttle adjusting screws on the two carbs. Don't forget to readjust the 'in drive gear' idle speed when you are done.]

If using a tach., adjust one idle mixture screw at a time on one carburetor adjusting for maximum r.p.m. reading.
- Turn the idle mixture screw approx. an 1/8 turn at a time and watch the rpm reading. Adjust it clockwise or counter-clockwise until you get maximum idle speed.
- Take some time doing this, it takes a little time for adjustments to be accurately reflected in the tach. reading.
- Go back-and-forth between the two adjusting screws on the one carburetor to insure that adjusting of one hasn't affected the adjustment of the other.
- Remember after you've adjusted a screw on that first carburetor to readjust the idle speed to its proper level if it has gone up.

With the dual quad set-up, you've got four idle screws to adjust one at a time. Do one carburetor at a time, adjusting the two idle mixtures screws on the one carburetor first, then do the second carburetor and its two idle mixture screws.

After you've done both carburetors, i.e. when you're done adjusting the two screws on each, recheck your settings by going through the whole thing again starting with the first carburetor that you adjusted.
_________________________

If using a vacuum gauge, again adjust one idle mixture screw at a time adjusting for maximum vacuum reading. Turn the idle mixture screw approx. an 1/8 turn at a time and watch the vacuum reading. Take some time doing this, it takes a little time for adjustments to be accurately reflected in the vacuum gauge reading. Go back-and-forth between the two adjusting screws to insure that adjusting one hasn't affected the other.

The rest of the adjusting process is the same as what was related above when using the tachometer as your idle indicator
_________________________

Already stated above, but remember to check and adjust the engine idle rpm as called for as you do the idle mixture screw adjustments. Adjusting the idle mixture screws (especially if they are significantly out of adjustment) should significantly affect engine idle speed if your carburetors are properly rebuilt.

When all done adjusting the idle mixture screws, remember to reconnect the vacuum line between your rear 'E' carb. and the distributor.
_________________________

If you're in need of specific settings for plug gaps, point dwell, initial timing, for your 'E' application, let us know.

_________________________

Going back to the 'E' distributor, what I was trying to state in my earlier thread entry is that with the right springs for the centrifugal advance, and shims for the vacuum advance diaphragm, you can equip a 'D' code distributor to operate identical to an 'E' code distributor. The 'E' code distributor housing is likely harder to obtain than the correct springs and shims. I prefer checking and adjusting distributor ignition advance curves on a distributor machine, but others may have other suggestions.

Hope all of this is of help. Smile

NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York


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