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Back to Points - 55 Fairlane 272

Posted By Meandean 12 Years Ago
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Meandean
Posted 12 Years Ago
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I gave up on the Pertronix and reinstalled a new set of points and condenser but now I don't get a spark.

Two questions. I'm concerned about the lead wire from the points to the grommet inside the distributor. It appears that this assembly makes contact with the distributor housing on the inside. There is a reddish colored sleeve where the grommet penetrates the distributor the would seem to insulate the grommet, but on the inside and outside of the distributor there is metal to metal contact. Maybe that's the way it is supposed to be. I consulted the 1949-1959 Ford Car Parts illustration (Page 374) and there may be a part on there that I'm not sure I have. Numbered "12234". Or maybe I do have it - if it is the piece that holds the head of the threaded grommet from rotating when the nuts are attached to the outside of the distributor.

Also. How the heck do you keep the point set from opening wider when tightening the set screw? As I tighten the screw the gap separates wider and wider. Is there supposed to be a washer there? Mine didn't have one before. I placed the gapping tool in the points and tightened it some, to a point I made sure it didn't move, but now I wonder if it was too loose it could have shifted when cranking the engine.
Meandean
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Meandean (10/1/2013)
I gave up on the Pertronix and reinstalled a new set of points and condenser but now I don't get a spark.

Two questions. I'm concerned about the lead wire from the points to the grommet inside the distributor. It appears that this assembly makes contact with the distributor housing on the inside. There is a reddish colored sleeve where the grommet penetrates the distributor the would seem to insulate the grommet, but on the inside and outside of the distributor there is metal to metal contact. Maybe that's the way it is supposed to be. I consulted the 1949-1959 Ford Car Parts illustration (Page 374) and there may be a part on there that I'm not sure I have. Numbered "12234". Or maybe I do have it - if it is the piece that holds the head of the threaded grommet from rotating when the nuts are attached to the outside of the distributor.

Also. How the heck do you keep the point set from opening wider when tightening the set screw? As I tighten the screw the gap separates wider and wider. Is there supposed to be a washer there? Mine didn't have one before. I placed the gapping tool in the points and tightened it some, to a point I made sure it didn't move, but now I wonder if it was too loose it could have shifted when cranking the engine.


I found a small rubber washer and installed that between the head of the grommet and the inside of the distributor to provide an insulator between the inside of distributor and the grommet/lead from the points. Then reinstalled everything.

I can see the points opening and closing when the engine cranks.

Could there be such a thing as a bad condenser or points fresh out of the box? The coil is the one that was on the car and working when this whole ordeal started.

One other thing. I dropped and lost one of the screws that holds the points on, but found one at the hardware store, albeit slightly longer. Could that be a problem?
gekko13
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Meandean: It's a bit difficult to follow what you are describing. The "grommet" on the wire from the coil to the points is the rubber insulator which protects the wire from chaffing as it passes through the distributor housing. The wire itself is usually terminated with a crimped on 90 degree "U" shaped terminal. That is fastened to the threaded stud on the contact set along with the lead from the condenser. The screws which hold down the points should not have washers under them. One of them will usually have a grounding wire with a crimped on eye terminal under it though. I set the points a little loose with the mounting screws just snug, then when I tighten them for the final time, the gap closes to the desired gap. I do this strictly by feel and experience so you will have to try until you get the hang of it. The length of the mounting screws could be an issue if it interferes with the advance mechanism underneath. With all due respect, I really don't know what you are trying to describe about "threaded grommets" and so forth. Some pictures would really help. re. bad parts, yes, defective parts do sometimes come in new boxes. It's a sad fact that it is possible on many items these days.
Meandean
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Okay. I'll try to do better.

By grommet I mean the threaded item that goes through the hole in the metal part of the distributor facing the firewall (at least on mine).

They called it grommet in the instructions for the Pertronix kit (and I had no idea what they meant either). The "grommet" has the lead wire (with the u-shaped connector you described) from the points attached to it on the inside of the distributor with a keeper (keeps it from turning when threading the nuts on the outside).

At the point where the grommet goes through the hole in the distributor there is a reddish/brown sleeve over the treads that just fits inside the distr. hole - from the outside - with a wider shoulder to keep it from pulling through. Outside of that is a washer and a nut holding the "grommet" in place. Then attached is the lead (black wire, again) that leads to the coil, with another nut on that to hold it in place.

There is nothing rubber inside there or on the wires. Just metal and the red thing that looks like hard plastic or maybe even ceramic? There was a rubber filler that contained the two wires on the Pertronix that filled the same hole as the "grommet".

Inside, i have the points attached with two screws. One has the black ground attached. The other fits the slotted hole used to adjust the points. Attached to the points lead/post are two wires, one to the "grommet" and one from the condenser.

The only other wire involved is the red line from the firewall going to the other post on the coil.

I hope this helps.
Meandean
Posted 12 Years Ago
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I ended up removing the "grommet" assembly and instead ran a direct wire (with connectors) from the points through the hole in the distributor directly to the coil - cutting out the potential for a ground at the pass-through hole. I then tested the points for spark and there it was. Put the rotor and cap on and it started right up!

I "knotted" the wire on the inside to keep it from pulling out of the distributor and made sure it was clear of the advance mechanism on the inside. I don't want to leave it this way as there is now a hole in the back of the distributor where rain/water could splash up into there. I will start by ordering a new set of wires for both inside and outside the distributor and see how that works, otherwise I could see just plugging it with a small rubberized grommet/plug that fits around the wire, and leaving it at that.
Meandean
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Hah!

Looking in the MAC's catalog for replacement wiring and it shows a one piece with a rubber "plug" for the hole, just like gekko mentioned above.

This must be the improved design. My "original" style must have proven unreliable. It is, however, what is pictured in the original Parts Illustrated book - so I know it was what came on the car.

I will be ordering a new-style replacement toot-sweet!
gekko13
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Good job Meandean. The points type ignition system is often criticized but it is about as basic as it gets. I kind of figured that you were grounded out somewhere. Glad your back running again. Happy motoring!
The Master Cylinder
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Just try to find USA made points and condenser. Lotta folks having problems with condensers "Hecho en China".

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Uploads/Images/af13a279-385d-4926-92f2-349a.jpg"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL Smooooth

Lord Gaga
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Meandean (10/2/2013)
I ended up removing the "grommet" assembly and instead ran a direct wire (with connectors) from the points through the hole in the distributor directly to the coil - cutting out the potential for a ground at the pass-through hole. I then tested the points for spark and there it was. Put the rotor and cap on and it started right up!

I "knotted" the wire on the inside to keep it from pulling out of the distributor and made sure it was clear of the advance mechanism on the inside. I don't want to leave it this way as there is now a hole in the back of the distributor where rain/water could splash up into there. I will start by ordering a new set of wires for both inside and outside the distributor and see how that works, otherwise I could see just plugging it with a small rubberized grommet/plug that fits around the wire, and leaving it at that.


That's excellent!
Hope you are able to get a refund from PertroniX. Their 6 volt igniters are worthless.
I would put a dab of black or clear silicone on the outside of the dist. to seal where the wire comes through and be done with it!

"FREE SAMPLE"


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