I'll guess that the carb is either an Autolite 2100 or a Holley 2v. Those are both actually worth a little bit.



If you have the time, you might try reverse electrolysis to get the engine apart. It's not very complicated, but there is a little bit of setup. And it will save the block from any violence from trying to bang it apart.



Save the cam and lifters, too. Keep them together because there is a compatibility issue with y-block cams and lifters.




Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

I stripped the engine as best as possible, has the G heads and higher ratio rocker arms, so if those are usable I got more than the $75 dollars I paid for the engine.  Has the two barrell carb and intake, I don't think those are worth anything.  The bottom end is siezed up tight.  I have never worked on an engine locked up as bad as this.  After several hours I even tried a long rod snaked to the underside of one of the pistons I got the rod undone on and tapped with a hammer and would not budge even a fraction of an inch.  Several other pistons seem stuck also.  I was able to get a couple of pistons out so I am going to save those rods.  Can't get the crank out since I can't get to the rod bolts on several of the pistons.  There was coolent in the bottom of the engine so that can't be too good.  If the heads and rockers prove good, they will make a nice addition to the 55 Tbird motor.  For you purests out there, I will clean up and save the old Tbird heads and rocker arms.  I never throw away useable origninal parts in case I ever sell the car and the new owner wants to take to dead stock.

 

You'll need to use a distributor with a mechanical Tach drive in the 'Bird or replace your tach with an Electrically driven style to use the 57 Distributor. There is a '57 T;Bird distributor with the mechanical tach drive, but they are very expensive, unless you get real lucky.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Check on the casting number of that 57 block. I think that the ECZ blocks are good ones, usually able to be bored out .120" or so.



Check the casting numbers on the rocker arms. If they start with ECG, those are the high ratio rockers.



The casting numbers for the head should be visible by looking on the underside of the water crossover ports on ends of the head. You might find ECZ-G there. It would be interesting to know what heads are on the 55 engine.



What kind of intake does it have?

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

If it's a 3 speed cruso it's a better trans also.  Gerry

Lake Forest California  5th inf 77 Armor Div. VN 68/69

If you put your town and state in your signature

help might be closer than you think.

You’re right on the heads and the rocker arms.  The ’57 also had the improved distributor but needs to be used with the newer (’57 and up) carbs.  The ’57 cam was also different.  The shortblocks other than the camshafts should be relatively the same for both years though.  If the price is right, it would be nice to have as a spare.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I am restoring a 55 T-bird.  I stumbled on a 57 292  I can pick up for cheap.  Complete motor and cruise o matic.  I am a bit of a novice about yblocks but my research indicates I can gain better heads, rocker arms at the very least over my 55.  Am I all wet? If not are the rods and crank a better option than on the 55 or are they the same.  Seems like at worst I will have some spare parts in case I discover a problem with the original motor.  Thoughts/Advice