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By DryLakesRacer - 11 Years Ago
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I need to remove the oil pan on my 56 292 and I'd like to do it in the car. The o'haul manual says just to remove the splash pans on the front of the engine. Do I need to do anything else? ei: raise the engine off the mounts? Oil line? .....Did a search but didn't come up with much.....Thanks
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By paul2748 - 11 Years Ago
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You might have to have the engine at top dead center (to get the crank in the right position). Other than that, you have to disconnect the tube going from the ol pump to the pan.
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By Outlaw56 - 11 Years Ago
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Paul,
Im visualizing my pan and 272. Trying to figure out how turning the crank would affect removal of the oil pan. Is there some Y blocks that conflict with something in the oil pan?
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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In the car the front throw on the crank makes pan removal impossible. By putting the crank a tdc that throw is up in the block and the pan can be pulled back and down. Sometimes I've had to loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine a bit to get it done, but not always. It is a very doable job in car. Chuck
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By lowrider - 11 Years Ago
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As mentioned, just put #1 at TDC and the pan should slide right out. That's what my dad told me to do waay back in 66 on a 56 Customline I drove. Pulled it out laying in the street at the curbside. Don't remember if I even raised the car up. That was a looong time ago. Now it's a struggle to pick up a dropped tool.
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By Outlaw56 - 11 Years Ago
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Now I understand. I have only experience with three Y blocks and they all were in trucks.
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By DryLakesRacer - 11 Years Ago
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Moon...wasn't as easy as I wanted it. Had to raise the engine up. Placed a 6" 2x2 at the front stabilzer with mount removed. Don't know if it is normal but the assemble had placed 2 studs at the rear and I had a bear of a time removing them; that was before I raised the engine. There was also a 5/16" thin wave washer in the bottom of the pan.....any ideas?
Problem started with a swallowed something through the carb I guess. At first the engine ran rough. I lifted the valve covers and found #6 intake push rod missing. Took off the intake and valley cover and it was laying inside perfectly straight. Apparently the piece got lodged under the valve seat for a few strokes loosening the push rod so it could fall through. I thought it could be a sticky valve but everything checked out. Put it all back together using the semi-block off gaskets it started right up with a hell of a racket. Turned it off, cried, removed everything including the left cylinder head and found a beat up piston right down on the low side. Couldn't get a feeler gauge to go down to the top ring there so that lead to pulling the pan and removing #6 piston and rod. Rods are .010 under and it's a .040 over bore.Top ring was wedged in the groove so I knew I did the right thing. Replacement Sealed Power Piston is on the way along with rings. Engine is spotless inside, proves out the 15 miles on it when I bought the car.
Checked the valves buy filling the combustion chamber WD-40 and nothing leaked through in an hour. Cylinder wall was not hurt but I'll seal up the bottom and carbon ball it anyway...What a week.. |
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By MoonShadow - 11 Years Ago
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Studs on the rear pan at the rear seal are normal. Usually the pan will drop down off of them. I don't know what causes you to have to lift the engine. I've done it both ways. Perhaps the motor mounts are old and have settled a bit. On my Vicky I also had to lift the engine. If you only have one damaged piston you proe bably dodged a bullet. Be sure to check everything for additional damage. Once running I think I would also run a compression . test. Good luck. Chuck
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By DryLakesRacer - 11 Years Ago
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Going to replace the piston even tho the one banged up is probably saveable. Found 3 longs and 2 mediums head bolts knew that was wrong. Checked the opposite side and found the 3 in the middle correct (one at a time and re-torque). Builder must have got it wrong. Can't remove the outers without removing the rocker shaft so I'm going to leave that side as is. Going to space out one of the long ones with 2 7/16" hardened washers to make the side I have off correct. Minor score lines were removed with a hone and ring gap was within Ford manual spec. Just awaiting the piston.
New question. Manual shows torque for rod "pal" nuts. There were none on the any of the rods. I always removed them from my GMC 6"s when building my race engines without a problem.....Do any of you folks still use them? Thanks |
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By Jim Rowe - 11 Years Ago
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Dry lakes racer,
First I love your on line name. I wish I were one. Now to answer your question. I have built two 312's and not used a pal nut on any rod nuts.
No problems..... And I rev the #%@* out of mine.
Jim
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By DryLakesRacer - 11 Years Ago
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Moonshadow...You are right with the pan. Apparently you need to be right on TDC to make the pan clear. Once the piston was it in I checked the bottom end to get as much as could under the pan rail TDC looks the best. I think I was hung up on the 4-8 throw counter weight when I tried to remove it. I jacked it back up anyway to put the front mount back in. I used long allen set screws for the back studs; ez to remove possibly some day. No leaks. Even had the power steering pump resealed/serviced while I waited since it did have a very minor leaked that bugged me.
One other thing I did before starting because I only took off the left head I removed the right head spark plugs and actually started the engine and it ran. Not very well on 4 cylinders but if there was anything in the right bank I hoped it would blow out. (remember only one push rod was out on #6). The engine runs better than ever; maybe proving there was a small vacuum leak.
I was impressed the the intake manifold gasket set I bought from Larry's T-Bird. Unmarked, they say they have them made. Smaller holed metal block offs; they said the intake paint won't blister. After driving it around the temp on the crossover was 240 and the paint is good to 500 so we will see. He is local to me. I'm going to post a new subject on something else...thanks all.
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