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DryLakesRacer
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
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I need to remove the oil pan on my 56 292 and I'd like to do it in the car. The o'haul manual says just to remove the splash pans on the front of the engine. Do I need to do anything else? ei: raise the engine off the mounts? Oil line? .....Did a search but didn't come up with much.....Thanks
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
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paul2748
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You might have to have the engine at top dead center (to get the crank in the right position). Other than that, you have to disconnect the tube going from the ol pump to the pan.
54 Victoria 312; 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ
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Outlaw56
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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Paul,
Im visualizing my pan and 272. Trying to figure out how turning the crank would affect removal of the oil pan. Is there some Y blocks that conflict with something in the oil pan?
Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's
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MoonShadow
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In the car the front throw on the crank makes pan removal impossible. By putting the crank a tdc that throw is up in the block and the pan can be pulled back and down. Sometimes I've had to loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine a bit to get it done, but not always. It is a very doable job in car. Chuck
Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
 
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
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lowrider
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As mentioned, just put #1 at TDC and the pan should slide right out. That's what my dad told me to do waay back in 66 on a 56 Customline I drove. Pulled it out laying in the street at the curbside. Don't remember if I even raised the car up. That was a looong time ago. Now it's a struggle to pick up a dropped tool.
Dan Kingman Az. 86409
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Outlaw56
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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Now I understand. I have only experience with three Y blocks and they all were in trucks.
Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's
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DryLakesRacer
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Group: Forum Members
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Moon...wasn't as easy as I wanted it. Had to raise the engine up. Placed a 6" 2x2 at the front stabilzer with mount removed. Don't know if it is normal but the assemble had placed 2 studs at the rear and I had a bear of a time removing them; that was before I raised the engine. There was also a 5/16" thin wave washer in the bottom of the pan.....any ideas?
Problem started with a swallowed something through the carb I guess. At first the engine ran rough. I lifted the valve covers and found #6 intake push rod missing. Took off the intake and valley cover and it was laying inside perfectly straight. Apparently the piece got lodged under the valve seat for a few strokes loosening the push rod so it could fall through. I thought it could be a sticky valve but everything checked out. Put it all back together using the semi-block off gaskets it started right up with a hell of a racket. Turned it off, cried, removed everything including the left cylinder head and found a beat up piston right down on the low side. Couldn't get a feeler gauge to go down to the top ring there so that lead to pulling the pan and removing #6 piston and rod. Rods are .010 under and it's a .040 over bore.Top ring was wedged in the groove so I knew I did the right thing. Replacement Sealed Power Piston is on the way along with rings. Engine is spotless inside, proves out the 15 miles on it when I bought the car.
Checked the valves buy filling the combustion chamber WD-40 and nothing leaked through in an hour. Cylinder wall was not hurt but I'll seal up the bottom and carbon ball it anyway...What a week..
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MoonShadow
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Studs on the rear pan at the rear seal are normal. Usually the pan will drop down off of them. I don't know what causes you to have to lift the engine. I've done it both ways. Perhaps the motor mounts are old and have settled a bit. On my Vicky I also had to lift the engine. If you only have one damaged piston you proe bably dodged a bullet. Be sure to check everything for additional damage. Once running I think I would also run a compression . test. Good luck. Chuck
Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
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DryLakesRacer
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Going to replace the piston even tho the one banged up is probably saveable. Found 3 longs and 2 mediums head bolts knew that was wrong. Checked the opposite side and found the 3 in the middle correct (one at a time and re-torque). Builder must have got it wrong. Can't remove the outers without removing the rocker shaft so I'm going to leave that side as is. Going to space out one of the long ones with 2 7/16" hardened washers to make the side I have off correct. Minor score lines were removed with a hone and ring gap was within Ford manual spec. Just awaiting the piston.
New question. Manual shows torque for rod "pal" nuts. There were none on the any of the rods. I always removed them from my GMC 6"s when building my race engines without a problem.....Do any of you folks still use them? Thanks
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Jim Rowe
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Dry lakes racer,
First I love your on line name. I wish I were one. Now to answer your question. I have built two 312's and not used a pal nut on any rod nuts.
No problems..... And I rev the #%@* out of mine.
Jim
 Jim Rowe Elkhorn, NE
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