http://3eagles.hypermart.net/Piston1.jpg

I also found one lifter that is dish shaped on the bottom. Cam lobes look fine but I guess a new set of lifters is called for. Anyone know the right part numbers to get the "good" ones? Chuck in NH

Looks like an easy fix if you just want a runnable engine.  A good used piston and a lifter would make it good for a lot of miles yet.  Gonna put the new engine in it now, I assume?

John

This block was swaped from an Interceptor boat motor and was not cleaned. It has some pretty bad scale in the water jackets. I will probably keep it on the side for an emergency and continue with the 40 over 272 that is currently in the shop for deck and balance.

I have several options for next year including a 312 and a 292 blower motor from a boat that is bored to 3.875". This block has steel main caps and a stud girdle. I have a couple 312 cranks so this might be the one to build. I'll pick it up during Columbus and get it mag'd and sonic'd next winter. Chuck in NH

The steel lifters have the thin foot.  Most original cast lifters have FoMoCo cast into the top of the foot.

John in Selma, IN

If using ‘used’ lifters, then put a straight edge on the wear face and insure that the outgoing radius on the lifter face is still evident.  You should basically be able to see a thread of daylight between the straight edge and each side of the lifter with the straight edge sitting across the middle of the lifter.  A well used or worn lifter will be concave to the point you can see daylight under the straight edge at the middle of the lifter.  If the lifters appear to be flat, then I would be hesitant in using them as you’re wanting that outgoing radius to promote rotation of the lifter.

Thick foot cast lifters I have about 2 1/2 sets BUT most of them don't appear to have any crown but are straight edge flat. No excessive wear patterns on them. I don't understand why so many are like this unless they were made that way. Chuck in NH