If you get ripped off by this guy please post all of his EBAY information so we can avoid him! When its settled, if he screws you, be sure and notify EBAY and PayPal. Chuck

You might try double gaskets under the fuel discharge nozzle assemblies.  It's not unusual for these assemblies to become warped due to being overtightened with that single screw that holds them in place.  You can also try just making the gasket out of thicker material in the event you don't have some extra gaskets laying around.  The idle feed holes are located on the outside ends of these assemblies so if there is going to be any leakage due to warpage, it will happen first at the ends.

The ideal location for these holes is half way between the throttle shaft and the edge of the throttle blade on the idle transfer slot side of the blade.

The accelerator pump linkage at front left needs to have some play - a slight clearance between the spring wrapped adjustment screw and the pump lever at idle - like .010/.015. The pump cam on the throttle linkage has a couple of positions usually marked one and two. If you don't like what "one" does try the other. 

It think the idle transfer slot / blade position will be like your Autolites.

Primary fuel jetting could also still be on the lean side contributing to your 'flatness' in performance when the tires quit spinning.

As an FYI, my roadster engine likes as little pump shot as possible and this is with a single plane intake manifold.  Using larger shooters and cams slowed down the 60' times.  And the engine also likes the black secondary spring which opens the secondaries as late as possible.  Lighter springs slowed down the overall et.

Hope this helps.

Here's the text from the Holley website giving their explanation on the pump cam and adjustments.

"Once a pump nozzle size selection has been made the accelerator pump system can be further tailored with the pump cam. Holley offers an assortment of different pump cams, each with uniquely different lift and duration profiles, that are available under Holley P/N 20-12. Switching cams will directly affect the movement of the accelerator pump lever and, subsequently, the amount of fuel available at the pump nozzle. Lay out the pump cams side by side and note the profile differences. This little exercise may help to better explain the differences between the cams and their effect on pump action. Installing a pump cam is straightforward. It’s a simple matter of loosening one screw, placing the new pump cam next to the throttle lever and tightening it up. There are two and sometimes three holes in each pump cam, numbered 1, 2 and 3. Placing the screw in position #1 activates the accelerator pump a little early, allowing full use of the pump’s capacity. Generally, vehicles which normally run at lower idle speeds (600 or 700 RPM) find this position more useful because they can have a good pump shot available coming right off this relatively low idle. Positions #2 and #3 delay the pump action, relatively speaking. These two cam positions are good for engines that idle around 1000 RPM and above. Repositioning the cam in this way makes allowance for the extra throttle rotation required to maintain the relatively higher idle setting. Pump arm adjustment and clearance should be checked and verified each and every time the pump cam and/or pump cam position is changed."

Just food for thought.

Were you using a degree wheel and dial indicator to verify that moving the crankshaft sprocket was moving the cam timing the desired number of degrees?  Although the increase in cranking compression up to 150 psi sounds right, there's the chance that the cranking compression was already past its peak and had come back down to 150 psi meaning too much camshaft advance.  Idling characteristics are normally improved by advancing cam timing which leads me to believe that there is more going on in your particular circumstance than meets the eye.  Did you happen to check the idle manifold vacuum while you had the camshaft advanced and if so, how did that value compare to the old manifold vacuum value?

Other players also includes the fuel float level, primary fuel jetting, and idle mixture.  All these also affect fuel delivery at the intermediate rpms.  The secondary side float level is also a player as that affects the 'fixed' idle mixture on the secondary side which ultimately affects the primary side.  And don't forget about vacuum leaks; these will make you run in circles trying to work around them and a vacuum gauge will not necessarily pick those up if they're small.

Another carb tuning item you might fool with, is the spring on the accelerator pump actuator. Crushing it down to "coil bind" isn't always best - if it has some travel, the "cushion" continues to stroke the pump after movement of the throttle stops. This has a relationship to the shooter size, but it does offer a little different behavior of the pump shot. 

What is that fuel filter on your engine?

John

The breather is from Moroso (Jegs 710-68811/15) and it was the only pleated element, shielded style I could find that was advertised to fit a 1-3/8 vent tube. The only drawback is that it says "MOROSO" on the top - and its nothing personal, there are Moroso parts on virtually everything I've built - but I wanted a "no-name" shiney part there. My machinist buddy says no worries he'll make me a little finned disc to fit on top to match the T-bird valve covers (that I have been polishing on for an eternity). "No worries" is usually a lunch bill or two.

Per the spec's info you gave us to work with -

The duration (at whatever lash the spec was written) is 272°

The overlap is 56°

The lobe centerline angle is 108° - is this correct? Knowing the gross cam lift and rocker ratio would be good.

This would be a nice cam in a bigger engine (like a 350 with bigger valves) - but in your 292 may not be fun to live with - except at the drag strip - and you will need more gear in the punkin. If its installed right on the split overlap, two things will help right away - decrease the overlap angle (by increasing the lash clearance setting) - and Ted may best know what your limits can be - and decrease the tendency of the engine to lose vacuum at the overlap. Do you have an open spacer under the carb - or one with individual holes to isolate the halves of the dual plane intake manifold? If the spacer is open the overlap is "stealing" a ton of vacuum - and you need venturi vacuum to make a street engine (and carburetor) run well. This type of engine needs a 4 hole spacer with individual openings to make the cylinders fill. 

The old school way of picking a rear gear for a street car - the tranny low times the rear end ratio must equal "10" or so - more depending on the gross vehicle weight. With your 2.78 low and a 3.73 the total ratio would come up to 10.37:1. This isn't for a hardcore street racer -but a stoplight bandit that goes cruz'in.

If you want her to dig out - for a start - the right rear spring preload should be:

Engine starting line torque (ft-lbs)  x total gear ratio (like the 10.37:1 above) divided by the distance between spring perches on the rear housing (in feet). This result is a weight that needs to be biased onto the right rear to counteract the tendency of the axle housing to rotate around the driveshaft. If the engine torque when you dump the clutch is 200 ft-lbs and the ratio is as above - and the spring perches are 4 ft apart - the result is about 520 lbs. You can tell - by simply sitting on the right rear fender that this can really settle the spring a bunch. Traction bars are nice - like slappers or the Shelby style links - but they won't do it all, something has to happen to bias the weight.

Two things that have a really positive effect on this - move the battery to the right rear behind the axle (put it in a sealed box) and put a spacer above the left front spring. Both of these work pretty good on a street car without upsetting the ability to drive it around. After you do this you may find that you need to either get the RH rear spring re-arched or (like a Mopar muscle car) add a leaf.