Ugh, so I recived the "good" carb core today, well guess what, the ventrui bra_ss tubes got split and cracks on them, at 125 dollars he better refund my money, if not I guess I can go file a claim with paypal. what a waste of time.



on the duraspark, the dist's pickup coil magnet is cracked so I order another one, I think it should arrive tomorrow, a little wiring and it should be all good

Give up and get a Holley or Edlebrock! I bought my 600 Holley double pumper from a factory rebuilder in Long Island for around $200. Thats the polished one too! It will get you on the road. Then you can look for the 4100 at your own pace. No pressure! You should be able to get either carb used locally. Try the speed and race shops they often have carbs just laying around collecting dust. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

HoLun - so speak up - why the facination with the Autolite carb? You can find guys that will recite a bad experience with virtually every kind there is - and good ones too. I like Holleys and they've found their way onto every carbureted vehicle I ever owned. The "new" check valve set-up they use to protect the power valve has made my life a lot better and I no longer can change a P-valve in the dark with a flashlight.  

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Well, theres a few reasons why I like em...

its ford

seem less common to find them under the hood, all I see are holley and elderbrock/carters

they are ultra simple, and, one piece main body/fuel bowl design, and I really like the box look

the effcient annular booster venturis, I tried the carter afb, even with the messed up timing, the autolite. 2 and 4 barrel seem to work better, I have not try holley tho.



I order some parts from CFI world, they guarantee the venturis are in top shape, so I can rebuild the messed up core I got from my friend.



Hope the Ebay guy will refund, else I have to file a claim... so much trouble... he didnt even brother to put in the description that the top cover is not from the same carb, its from a big car carb with the hot air idle valve, and thats missing, with epoxy filled the hole where the valve was... sure it looks clean, but its a clean piece of crap... gotto be real careful on ebay.

so, I open a compalin with paypal, and i try to settle it without paypal since it i think they charge a fee.



so we sent a few msg, and on the last one he made it so that it is my doing that the epoxy is on the airhorn hot air idle compensator valvle holes, and the crack on the tubes. what am I to do now, I feel sick to my stomach, may be I should go knock down his door and throw the carb right in his face.









on the Igniton, almost done wiring it. gonna fire it up later tonight.

Holun,

If you get ripped off by this guy please post all of his EBAY information so we can avoid him! When its settled, if he screws you, be sure and notify EBAY and PayPal. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Ok Finally finished the Duraspark conversion!



The used 302 dist. came with the 10L and 15L tab on the mechnical advance thing, I used the 10L for 20 total advance, and I set my initial advance to 18, low end improved, a lot, doesnt seem to ping, I am in texas, and running a 195 thermostat, I smell raw gas at the exhaust at idle, definity too rich.



when I researched this conversion, they say the module cant take heat very well, so I mounted the module inside the car, should last a life time? lol



it was simple, but time consuming since I didnt get the factory connector, so I have to put fully insulated quick disconnects on all the wires, I also purchased similar color wires for easy hook up and removal incase the module go dead, I also got a spare module on hand just incase as suggessed by Steve.



I used a 1.82 ohm Accel ballast resistor for the coil, the 700 .75-1.5 ohm mallory resistor is variable I am not sure if this is the cause of death for my old pertronix units so I use a static value one for my duraspark.





I filed a claim on paypal already, will see what happen.

heres the item in question http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=190004453093&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT



I dont think 65 mustangs 4100 came with hot idle air compensator valves, and you cant see it, but the pbuttage and screw holes are filled with epoxy. the outer bra_ss tubes are cracked, this bastard says that I filled it, and I cracked it.

So I got a parts carb from CFI world, got some good booster ventruis and secondary shaft and plate, so I slap the 66 mustang 1.08 4100 carb I got from my friend(not the ebay one I got) together and it runs great, the off the line stumble is 100% gone, and it pulls alot harder. Vacuum reading seem to be more stable too. but the idle is still rough, Its idling on the transfer ports, since the idle mix screw doesnt do squat when I turn em. Do these engine idle smooth when they are new? I never driven any other old car like these. or maybe because of my cam? anyways I am not too consern since it seem to run fine.



I am happy with this carb, but when I look at the epay carb sittin in my garage, it ruin my day all over again

HoLun - are you still running a Holley 8.5 power valve? And it isn't leaking due to a backfire? On the Holley carbs (they must be pretty similar in function to the Autolite), I've had to put some 5.5 valves in before, just to get the mixture screws to work. Pulses of low vacuum will dump enough fuel out of the P-valve enrichment circuit to provide an unregulated idle mixture. The 600 cfm 4160 Holley's come with a 6.5 that usually works well enough with stock cam timing and idle speed - but when I put an "RV" cam in my old jeep truck - it wouldn't answer the idle screws until I lowered the P-valve to a 5.5. It then takes a little bigger primary jets to transfer smoothly to cruise.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

So I changed the powervalve to 4.5Hg and drove it some today, no difference, still cant set idle. I cant find any vacuum leak either, it doesn't really matter now it idles and drives with no problem what so ever. Going to keep the 4.5 in there since it might save me some gas



It drives like a new car now, except when Ideling, I can't belive switching to a smaller 4100 can make such a huge difference, its like a donkey turned into a race horse



the Engine still smokes a little idling, I changed the oil yesterday, its the first 500mi oil change. the rockers ticks like a oldschool sweing machine, I can hear it over the glasspacks when crusing, well, my car's insulation is all gone anyway. are these engines this loud when they were new?





anyways its drives better then I expected, going to hook up relays for my headlights, I am using H4 bulbs on the outside and the seal beam inside, I rig them up so they are all 4 dual filament bulbs, all on at the same time. and the light switch gets hot... and I still cant see anything at night. so hopefully with the relay system, it can provide more energy to the bulbs and shrine brighter.