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By ejstith - 17 Years Ago
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Is there suppose to be a gasket under the distributor? I just took mine out and there's not one there .. ? Thanks
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By GREENBIRD56 - 17 Years Ago
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No - it (the distributor) just seats down on the block surface and clamps in place. Any distance it sits above the deck decreases some engaged items below - and you would like them to be as fully engaged as possible.
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By ejstith - 17 Years Ago
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Thanks Steve, been a long time since I've had the distributor out of a Y block. I had forgot ... Summit told me there was one with the manifold gaskets but there wasn't one there .. Thanks again ...
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By GREENBIRD56 - 17 Years Ago
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You might try some sort of paste or moly lubricant as an "anti-seize" around the upper bore - but it needs to not have aluminum solids in it (if you ask me). Maybe some of the caliper grease I use as my all purpose high temp sticky lubricant? Anyway - the dumb things do get stuck when they are old dry and corroded.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 17 Years Ago
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Steve,
Why no aluminum solids? Is that what makes anti-seize silver?
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By ejstith - 17 Years Ago
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Mine came out fine. I just thought there should be a gasket there to keep oil from coming from the valley and running down the back of the motor. Guess not. I think a SBC had gasket but it may not have, don't remember. Now I've got to feed new plug wires through the wire holders. Looks like fun but I've got a plan .. 
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By GREENBIRD56 - 17 Years Ago
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nah, guys.....mechanic's "never-sieze" is usually zinc rich or copper rich (the solids) - but a fellow told me he had some aluminum "paint" he was using as a spray on thread coating! Aluminum oxide is a principle component of sandpaper the last time I looked and I couldn't imagine letting it get loose in an engine cavity. Apparently on the planet he grew up on - silver stuff is "antiseize" no matter what the chemical make up.
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By PWH42 - 17 Years Ago
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Steve,you're probably right about not wanting aluminum oxide in an engine,but as an aside,back in the 40's and 50's my Dad was very good at souping up Minneapolis-Moline tractors.At that time the only way he could hold head gaskets was a liberal coat of aluminum paint.It didn't seem to hurt those engines,but they ran a lot looser tolerances and a lot less RPM's than our cars.
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By Ted - 17 Years Ago
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As a rule, don’t use anti-seize compound that has aluminum in its makeup on aluminum where it's used in an interference fit or in contact against another metal. The distributor going into the block is a perfect example of such an instance and aluminum in the anti-seize compound in this instance doesn’t do much for stopping the potential for galling or seizing between the two parts being fitted together. Aluminum or silver paint on the head gaskets was a good sealer in its day where both heads were iron but you would not want to use it where an aluminum head is being used.
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By pegleg - 17 Years Ago
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Also don't use it on Exhaust manifiold bolts. No fun after it "Cooks".
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By DANIEL TINDER - 17 Years Ago
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Frank,
By "it", do you mean alum. paint?
I thought exhaust bolts were likely where anti-seize is most useful (aside from stainless), as it was once essential in order to remove the baffle discs in SuperTrap motorcycle mufflers.
As it is, I have to use locking header bolts just to keep my manifolds from loosening.
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By pegleg - 17 Years Ago
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Dan, No, I meant the "Never Seize" I think it's intended function was to keep steel fastners from oxidizing Aluminum. I have never used the paint on threads, But I have on gaskets. Actually I have used it on Copper head gaskets on two stroke Motorcycles with pretty decent success.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 17 Years Ago
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Ted, if I read your post correctly you say not to use ant-sieze if one of the two metals is aluminum and the other is iron or steel. What about spark plugs in an aluminum cylinder head? I have always used anti sieze on spark plugs. Is that a bad idea? Pete
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By Ted - 17 Years Ago
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Pete 55Tbird (7/4/2008)
Ted, if I read your post correctly you say not to use ant-sieze if one of the two metals is aluminum and the other is iron or steel. What about spark plugs in an aluminum cylinder head? I have always used anti sieze on spark plugs. Is that a bad idea? PetePete. I’m referring to anti-seize that has aluminum in it. Definitely use anti-seize on the spark plug threads when installing them in aluminum heads but use an anti-seize that has the copper in it and not the aluminum. The anti-seize being used must have a dissimilar compound to what is being fastened. If one or both of the fasteners or contacting surfaces is aluminum, then don’t use an aluminum based anti-seize. I’ve have several different anti-seize compounds laying loose and they are all similar in color so it can be misleading without looking at the composition in detail to know exactly which is which.
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By pegleg - 17 Years Ago
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Pete, You could be starting an interesting discussion with that one! Most of the time the threads in an aluminum cylinder head are "Threadserts" which are steel threads installed into the aluminum head. The major diameter is intended to thread in once, while the minor diameter becomes the thread for the plug. Not always used, but often. So now the plug is steel to steel, in that case. However ( !) I don't like to use the stuff in a situation where it's exposed to a lot of heat, the carrier bakes out, leaving a hard carbon residue that's hard on threads, sockets and old muscles. It also adds an insulator between the plug and the head which could make the plug a "hot spot", causing pre-ignition. Others will swear it's the only way to put a plug in an aluminum head. After 40 plus years of having to pull aluminum cylinder heads from Motorcyles to install new threadserts, I don't like it in that situation. I do like the stuff on side cover, rocker covers or any application where there's not a lot of heat, but exposure to rain or the elements is possible
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By Joe Johnston - 17 Years Ago
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I'm a retired machinist from a large kindustrial machine shop. We always used lots of anti-sieze on everything that was iron or steel in areas where heat was an issue. HOWEVER, for aluminum the anti-sieze compound MUST be compatable for aluminum. The can will say if it is. The wrong kind will actually soften the aluminum and the threads will pull. I've seen the threaded holes so soft from the wrong compound the bolts will pull out - threads and all. Where the dizzy goes, the right product must be used, because the dizzy's alloy is fairly soft and it will break if hammered on. The wrong compound could cause the dizzy to actually swell and be nearly impossible to remove with out breaking. Hope it isn't a tack drive unit on a T-Bird! Good luck. J
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By DANIEL TINDER - 17 Years Ago
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My tube of Permatex Anti-seize has no label list of ingredients, or warnings/recommendations re: type of metals to use it on!
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By Ted - 17 Years Ago
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DANIEL TINDER (7/4/2008)
My tube of Permatex Anti-seize has no label list of ingredients, or warnings/recommendations. re: type of metals to use it on!If you have the part number of the antiseize, you can get a feel for the composition through the appropriate MSDS sheet. Here’s a link to the Permatex MSDS sheets. http://hazard.com/msds/mf/perm/list.html
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By Y block Billy - 17 Years Ago
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Anti sieze was used generously on steam fitting fasteners way back in the day, eventually everybody started using it on everything which is the wrong way to go. Anti sieze has tiny metal balls in it so you do not want to use it on anything that moves or it will act as a lapping compound and wear out/wallow out the components. I used to use it generously on wheel studs and nuts until I wallowed out the holes on two rims and figured out the anti sieze was causing it. 2.) it is electrically conductive. my brother and I rebuilt a starter for a boat and he swore by anti sieze, I told him not to use it on the electrical connectors in the starter that were insulated and he didn't listen. When the battery was hooked up and starter engaged it fried the insulators that had the anti sieze all over them. The only place on an engine I would use it would be exhaust studs for fear that if any of it got in the oil system would act like lapping compound on the bearings.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 17 Years Ago
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Billy,
Re: wheel wear, I think the key word here is "generously". A tiny bit seems to go quite a long way.
P.S. Anyone else notice the editorial discussion in a recent issue of Skinned Knuckles Mag. about using lube on wheel studs? They stated wheels should likely be bolted on dry! Aside from the grief involved with removing rusty lug nuts that have been on for quite a while, this opens a can-of-worms re: torque wrench settings?
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By Mark F - 12 Years Ago
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Now i know why I could not find a gasket. Thanks
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