Now i know why I could not find a gasket. Thanks

Billy,



Re: wheel wear, I think the key word here is "generously". A tiny bit seems to go quite a long way.



P.S. Anyone else notice the editorial discussion in a recent issue of Skinned Knuckles Mag. about using lube on wheel studs? They stated wheels should likely be bolted on dry! Aside from the grief involved with removing rusty lug nuts that have been on for quite a while, this opens a can-of-worms re: torque wrench settings?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Anti sieze was used generously on steam fitting fasteners way back in the day, eventually everybody started using it on everything which is the wrong way to go. Anti sieze has tiny metal balls in it so you do not want to use it on anything that moves or it will act as a lapping compound and wear out/wallow out the components. I used to use it generously on wheel studs and nuts until I wallowed out the holes on two rims and figured out the anti sieze was causing it. 2.) it is electrically conductive. my brother and I rebuilt a starter for a boat and he swore by anti sieze, I told him not to use it on the electrical connectors in the starter that were insulated and he didn't listen. When the battery was hooked up and starter engaged it fried the insulators that had the anti sieze all over them.

The only place on an engine I would use it would be exhaust studs for fear that if any of it got in the oil system would act like lapping compound on the bearings.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

If you have the part number of the antiseize, you can get a feel for the composition through the appropriate MSDS sheet.  Here’s a link to the Permatex MSDS sheets.

http://hazard.com/msds/mf/perm/list.html

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

My tube of Permatex Anti-seize has no label list of ingredients, or warnings/recommendations re: type of metals to use it on!

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I'm a retired machinist from a large kindustrial machine shop.  We always used lots of anti-sieze on everything that was iron or steel in areas where heat was an issue.   HOWEVER, for aluminum the anti-sieze compound MUST be compatable for aluminum.  The can will say if it is. The wrong kind will actually soften the aluminum and the threads will pull.  I've seen the threaded holes so soft from the wrong compound the bolts will pull out - threads and all.   Where the dizzy goes, the right product must be used, because the dizzy's alloy is fairly soft and it will break if hammered on.  The wrong compound could cause the dizzy to actually swell and be nearly impossible to remove with out breaking.   Hope it isn't a tack drive unit on a T-Bird!   Good luck.  J

Pete,

          You could be starting an interesting discussion with that one! Most of the time the threads in an aluminum cylinder head are "Threadserts" which are steel threads installed into the aluminum head. The major diameter is intended to thread in once, while the minor diameter becomes the thread for the plug. Not always used, but often. So now the plug is steel to steel, in that case. However (!) I don't like to use the stuff in a situation where it's exposed to a lot of heat, the carrier bakes out, leaving a hard carbon residue that's hard on threads, sockets and old muscles. It also adds an insulator between the plug and the head which could make the plug a "hot spot", causing pre-ignition. Others will swear it's the only way to put a plug in an aluminum head. After 40 plus years of having to pull aluminum cylinder heads from Motorcyles to install new threadserts, I don't like it in that situation. I do like the stuff on side cover, rocker covers or any application where there's not a lot of heat, but exposure to rain or the elements is possible  

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Pete.  I’m referring to anti-seize that has aluminum in it.  Definitely use anti-seize on the spark plug threads when installing them in aluminum heads but use an anti-seize that has the copper in it and not the aluminum.  The anti-seize being used must have a dissimilar compound to what is being fastened.  If one or both of the fasteners or contacting surfaces is aluminum, then don’t use an aluminum based anti-seize.  I’ve have several different anti-seize compounds laying loose and they are all similar in color so it can be misleading without looking at the composition in detail to know exactly which is which.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted, if I read your post correctly you say not to use ant-sieze if one of the two metals is aluminum and the other is iron or steel. What about spark plugs in an aluminum cylinder head? I have always used anti sieze on spark plugs. Is that a bad idea? Pete

Dan,

        No, I meant the "Never Seize" I think it's intended function was to keep steel fastners from oxidizing Aluminum. I have never used the paint on threads, But I have on gaskets. Actually I have used it on Copper head gaskets on two stroke Motorcycles with pretty decent success.   

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart)