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By Aris - Last Week
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Ooopppsss I am reposting this from the Street forum, I think it is better here 😅
Hi all you Y-block lovers! I'm new to this forum from Athens, Greece with my '54 Mercury Monterey driver. It has the original 239 with low mileage, manual with Overdrive, 6volt positive ground, the 2140 Teapot and, the ' temperamental' Load-O-Matic..
Before learning that need a SUN machine, way back I tried to adjust the spring weights and really messed it up. I found one in England but it came back and still is no good. I've always had problems and lately it misfires especially in the mid RPM range.
Here are my novice questions for your kind expert consideration:
1. Is there a way I can manually tune the springs without the SUN machine?
2. Are there reliable Load-O-Matic tuners in the states I can send it for proper tuning?my Load-O-Matic for tuning or I just forget about them?
3. Should I simply forget about it and go for a point unit with centrifugal weights like the ones used in the later Y-Block engines? And frankly I would like to keep it as buy now. I ( I can easily do Ted 's vacuum Teapot conversion I read about in this forum) know it quite well
4.
5. I am also open foran HEI distributor that looks like my original and can fit with the shaft length and tang coupling to the oil pump. However there is a question with the wiring of my overdrive's kick down switch wiring on the coil, because I tried the Pertronix unit it way back and it did not work.
That's it, thank you all in advance
Aris
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By DANIEL TINDER - 5 days ago
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Don’t know about the 2140, but the weak vacuum signal with the Holley 4000 not only needs a SUN machine for precise adjustment, but one with the tall manometer accessory (not many have that). I adjusted the springs in my Loadomatic for a more aggressive curve, but also have an old aftermarket advance limiter part. Better acceleration performance, but crappy gas millage, since the limiter won’t allow the very high advance level needed for cruising economy. A centrifugal distributor and carb mod would be a much simpler solution. Or, if you have the time to waste. you could just trust to ‘trial & error’, and play with the springs until things improve (?).
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By Aris - 5 days ago
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Hi Daniel,
Thanks for the reply, can you suggest which centrifugal distributor I should look for?
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By KULTULZ - 5 days ago
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If it is a 54 MERC, it should have the 256CI ENGINE (CLV).
Did it receive a FORD 239CI (DIF) swap at some point?
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By Ted - Last Week
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Some basic questions first before getting into some actual fixes.
As Kultulz brings up, is this a 239 or is it a 256 engine?
Are you using a timing light to verify the actual ignition timing and at the same time using that same timing light to watch the timing mark move up and down as the engine rpm is moved up and down?
Does the engine have a solid front lower pulley for the generator/water pump belt or does it have a rubber mounted damper? If a rubber mounted damper, has the zero or ‘TDC’ timing mark on the damper been checked to verify that it does indeed reside at TDC?
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By KULTULZ - Last Week
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Can the OP two posts be combined to cause less confusion?
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By Aris - Last Week
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Thanks for the prompt response guys!
Frankly I don't know if I have the 239 or the 256, I only assumed that In 1954 they only came with the 239.
The car came here some 35 years ago from the US and it showed only 6,000 miles on it and I strongly believe it was correct because besides the outer paint, every single detail on that car seemed to be brand new!
The plate shows SN 54SL22371M, STYLE BR73C and body spec. 04-460-22M-590 without an engine number on it or anywhere else stamped on the engine that I can see.
Maybe it is elsewhere?
Ted yes, for timing I use a timing light and yes the mark moves when I rev it
It has a solid pulley for generator and water pump and in front of it has also one more double pulley for the power steering belt. Sorry I Don't understand what you mean by rubber damper, the picture should explain what I have.
Now the Zero on the timing must be ok because I've added 35.000 on and it was running ok. My misfiring problems, (recently most prominent in the mid pms) started when I messed up myself with the distributor springs. I sent it to a guy with a SUN machine in England, but apparently it was not done properly. Then again The Loadomatic has gone in and out many times so I don't know.
I have added also some more pictures of the engie
  
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By alanfreeman - Last Week
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Judging from the pictures, the engine looks like a 256 not a 239.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - Last Week
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Changing to a centrifugal advance distributor, whether '57 and up Ford or aftermarket, will require changing the oil pump to hex drive and using the hex drive shaft. Worth the effort in my opinion.
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By KULTULZ - Last Week
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That is a 256CI 4V particular to 1954 MERC -
http://www.coolcarsimport.fr/decodeur-de-vin-mercury-50-57/
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By KULTULZ - 4 days ago
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You have a very well preserved survivor.
BEFORE any upgrades, please take extensive photos and save all take-off parts so as you can share the assembly details with others. I would think there are quite a few restorers that would like to document what you have.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 4 days ago
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A lot of excellent information and a lot of choices in all the above. You did state the distributor was sent out to someone who had a Sun machine which produced no favorable results. Maybe?? the distributor isn't the issue. I noticed the vehicle has vacuum operated power brakes along with the usual vacuum lines for the wiper system and the heater control valve. Have you tried temporarily blocking/plugging all those vacuum lines to see if a vacuum leak might be a contributing factor? The spark plug wires are the early carbon "Sipcon" wires that were like most all early carbon wires, not very reliable, even in the day. Coil, condenser and points? Also, if I needed to set up a Load-O-Matic and didn't have a distributor machine, I would try using a vacuum gauge and a hand operated vacuum pump plumbed to the vacuum diaphragm. It would be a pain but with a timing light you might get a good idea of how the distributor is functioning. Just my 2cents, welcome to the site and good luck.... Very nice Mercury - when able, share some more pics of the car.
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By Ted - Last Week
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KULTULZ (5/14/2025)
Can the OP two posts be combined to cause less confusion?
I have put a lock on the duplicate post that’s in the ‘Street’ section to prevent responses to that particular post. That should help to eliminate two sets of replies for the same topic.
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By Ted - Last Week
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Aris (5/14/2025)
It has a solid pulley for generator and water pump and in front of it has also one more double pulley for the power steering belt. Sorry I Don't understand what you mean by rubber damper,
Being a solid pulley in your case is expected to have the TDC mark reasonably close to where it is supposed to be. The rubber mounted dampers are prone to slippage at the timing marks and that does pose a tuning issue when that happens.
I only mention the rubber damper as it was unknown at the time if the engine had been upgraded to newer parts or possibly even another engine during the last 70 years. I bring this up due to working on a 1954 Ford Y for a customer that ended up being a 292 with the ’54 timing cover, distributor, oil pump, water pump, fuel pump, etc. Externally, the engine looked like a 239 without delving into specific block and head casting numbers. That engine was then upgraded with the 1955 and newer parts to make it more road friendly in the event parts were needed to be replaced during a road trip.
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By Ted - Last Week
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Aris (5/13/2025)
1. Is there a way I can manually tune the springs without the SUN machine?
Without the aid of a distributor machine, your timing light can be used for determining your existing ‘no load’ distributor curve. As a general rule, adding shims reduces the total amount of timing and taking shims away increases the total amount of ignition timing. From what you are describing, you need to add shims assuming of course that this an ignition problem.
As mentioned by John (Hoosier Hurricane), upgrading to a newer distributor, oil drive, and oil pump would help to simplify working on the ignition curve. If retaining the model 2140 Holley, then the same modifications performed to the Holley 4000 carbs to make them compatible with the later model ignitions would be doable.
And as Ford Deaborn brings up, the issue may be something other than the ignition. Has a compression test on the engine been performed? What condition are the spark plug wires? Are you using ethanol blended fuel? If so, try running a fuel with a reduced ethanol blend or no ethanol at all and see if that helps.
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By KULTULZ - Last Week
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If one modifies a LOM style carb to signal a DUAL ADVANCE DIST, is that modification permanent or can it be reversed if wanting to later revert back to LOM (restoration purposes)?
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By KULTULZ - Last Week
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'ya know ...
Back when, it (TUNE - POINTS REPLACEMENT) paid flat rate to remover the DIST and set it up on a DIST MACH as to dwell, point tension and correct advance. You know as well as I do that it rarely happened. The TECH threw in a set of points and condenser and drove it out.
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By Ted - Last Week
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KULTULZ (5/15/2025)
If one modifies a LOM style carb to signal a DUAL ADVANCE DIST, is that modification permanent or can it be reversed if wanting to later revert back to LOM (restoration purposes)?
That’s a ‘Yes’ on being able to reverse the modification on a model 2140 or 4000 Holley 4V carburetor and be able to go back to the Load-O-Matic (LOM) distributor. That carburetor modification for using a later model mechanical distributor simply blocks the venturi assisted portion of the vacuum signal to the distributor.
Removing the freshly installed nipple and plugging the hole at the outside of the carburetor would be one method for reversing the modification but if it’s a standard shift vehicle, then the modified screw in the bottom would need to be replaced with a long stem version along with installing the small plastic ball that sits on top of that stem. If it’s an automatic transmission equipped car, the modified short stem screw at the bottom of the carburetor can stay in place. An optional method is to remove the short stem screw at the bottom of the carburetor and simply drill a small hole through both sides of the tube used for the new nipple, replace the screw, and install a rubber cap on the exposed end of the nipple on the outside of the carburetor. Either of these scenarios would restore the original vacuum signal assuming the spark advance valve is also in place.
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By KULTULZ - Last Week
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THANX TED - MUCHLY APPRECIATED!
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By KULTULZ - Last Week
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... hmmpf ...
Actually read the TECH ARTICLE and now I understand.
Never actually needed to know before ...
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By Aris - Last Week
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HI all of you great guys, I really appreciate your comments that give me more and more insight into my Merc's tech. It's amazing how nowadays communication has advanced to the point where we can help each other around the world. Being far away I started back in 1968 to
communicating with the US with letters and later on with faxes!
Taking into account all your valuable help I have a first decided not to swap the Loadomatic with a newer one, as yes KULTUZ I am also addicted to originality and after all it used to work ok for many years.
Now with your eager help yesterday
I ordered from eBay a
NOS (!!!) distributor on eBay and also another NOS distributor gear to go on my spare Loadomatic who's gear is missing. Now with three distributors available I'm going to spend the time to try and adjust the primary and secondary springs testing it on the road.
I'll double check my timing and everything else as suggested. As I'm only a DIY limited mechanic, Ted kindly explain to me what you mean by shimming have no idea what and how you mean this.
Also FORD DEARBORN please be more specific about ''using a vacuum gauge and a hand operated vacuum pump plumbed to the vacuum diaphragm'' is this a way I can set up the primary and secondary springs to my curve as per my manual?
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By Aris - Last Week
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Here is a pic from my manual
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By KULTULZ - 2 days ago
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That chart gives you how the DIST ADVANCE as was curved by the factory.
You can find the exact curve in your 54 MERC WSM under IGN - SPECIFICATIONS using the DIST ID NO.
It will be tough without the DIST MACH and manometer (LOM).
CLICK HERE - http://m571.com/yblock/loadomatic.htm
GOOD LUCK WITH HER ...
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By FORD DEARBORN - 2 days ago
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The vacuum pump mentioned, is often used to bleed brakes. If you do a search on the net, these vacuum pumps should come up. There are also various vacuum gauges available but will require some plumbing work to "T" into a vacuum line. With the gauge and vacuum pump attached directly to the distributor advance can, you should be able to see with a timing light how the advance is responding in relation to the vacuum signal applied. This will not be precise but with a little experimentation, you may be able to get a feel for how well the advance is responding. I have rebuild/recurved numerous distributors through the years and indeed have a proper machine to do this. However, I have little experience with the Load O Matic. My 1955 Ford truck shop manual shows 4.5 to 6 inches of mercury/vacuum for the various engine and distributor combinations. As KULTULZ asks: What is the exact curve in the 54 Merc WSM? Hope this helps, let us know....
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By Aris - 2 days ago
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KULTUZ and DEARBORN first I attach the curve chart. The check valve is another eye opener!
If I am correct based on the article my check valve should be marked with a 6 or a 7, correct?
However, I'm a bit confused because in my picture the Mercury parts book lists it with PN. B5A-9905-B but mentions ' stamped 25' unless this is for a Ford PN?
DEARBORN I believe you're showing me a way to adjust the springs while on the car, correct ? I have a brake bleeder pump and extra vacuum gauge and hoses and T's, no problem. Now if I got this right using the T I should splice it in the venturi vacuum line then observe the numbers based on my specs. ( I need to cut and add a hose along the metal line, something I wanted to do way back anyway)
There is another test I have to do about shimming which I had no idea about as Ted mentions
So Monday when back I have some great work to do! Yesssss🥳
 
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By Aris - 2 days ago
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.....
Without the aid of a distributor machine, your timing light can be used for determining your existing ‘no load’ distributor curve. As a general rule, adding shims reduces the total amount of timing and taking shims away increases the total amount of ignition timing. From what you are describing, you need to add shims ...
Ted ( I tried quoting hope it works)
I used GPT to learn about shimming distributors as I had no knowledge of it, so when setting the timing, I certainly did not rev up to observe any problem ..
It could be that I have messed things up up because at one point, if my failing memory is correct, I put chose and used the best shaft on my current distributor, and probably moved the single gear I had. So much for my expertise 😭
Any instructions or links how to best shimm it will help! Thanks
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By KULTULZ - 2 days ago
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Mercury parts book lists it with PN. B5A-9905-B but mentions ' stamped 25' unless this is for a Ford PN?
The 'STAMPED 25' merely ID's the SPARK CONTROL VALVE if say you have an assortment out of the parts box. There is only one listed for your application. I think what is meant by 'shimming' is the addition/removal of shims in the DIST ADV CANISTER to control the vacuum advance. This was used on later DUAL ADVANCE. I believe this is what is being discussed. You will notice on the BREAKER PLATE (12151) POST (12357) that hold the advance springs that they can be adjusted by rotating them (to adjust spring tension). You will have to have a very sensitive vacuum gauge to measure correctly the small signal given by the carb. What are the DIST ASSY ID NOS on all of your distributors? You may have a NOS that is calibrated correctly already.
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By Aris - 2 days ago
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This is my spare Loadomatic without gear but I have ordered one.
On the shaft I measure 0.058'' play, if this is the place to shim, what should the tolerance be
?
[ img]http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/59f1cc9b-9194-4cb3-b916-92e5.jpg[/img]
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By Aris - 2 days ago
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Yes KULTUZ, that is why I bought a NOS from eBay yesterday, hoping it comes pre-adjusted. It is PN FAE-12127-A as shown on the picture , my spare one minus the gear I ordered is FAE-12127 A2 and the one on the car must be the same. My parts manual has three PN's, FAE 12127-C (which I wrote must be for the Police Merc of those days as I found also a Police Teapot version), a FDC 12127-A and a FEC-12127-A
So all numbers are the same, so I believe and hope all will fit.
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By Aris - 2 days ago
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Yes KULTUZ, that is why I bought a NOS from eBay yesterday, hoping it comes pre-adjusted. It is PN FAE-12127-A as shown on the picture , my spare one minus the gear I ordered is FAE-12127 A2 and the one on the car must be the same. My parts manual has three PN's, FAE 12127-C (which I wrote must be for the Police Merc of those days as I found also a Police Teapot version), a FDC 12127-A and a FEC-12127-A
So all numbers are the same, so I believe and hope all will fit.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 2 days ago
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The photo with "shim?" with arrow is not where shims are installed, if anywhere. That "collar" is to be tightly held in place with a roll pin. The collar should be pinned to allow a minimum of .020" up and down thrust of the shaft. My 1955 book calls for .020 to .024" thrust. The correct position of the gear is also a critical dimension that must be followed. Trying to precisely adjust the advance springs while in the engine will be challenging. Standard vacuum gauges are not accurate enough to split an inch of vacuum/mercury into a fraction but by experimentation you may get the "feel" of it. The vacuum advance canister will need to be disconnected from the carburetor and then plumbed to the pump and gauge because with no load on the engine, the air flow through the carb will not provide a good and proper signal. There are devices available that can be plumbed in for precisely measuring small vacuum signals. If you would like to see the one I have, I'll gladly try sending a pic of it. As stated above, the NOS distributor you have may be calibrated well enough out of the box. You could push a vacuum hose against the canister connection and with the other end clinched in your teeth, make sure everything moves freely.
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By Ted - 2 days ago
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Aris (5/17/2025)
TedWithout the aid of a distributor machine, your timing light can be used for determining your existing ‘no load’ distributor curve. As a general rule, adding shims reduces the total amount of timing and taking shims away increases the total amount of ignition timing. From what you are describing, you need to add shims ...
Ted (I tried quoting hope it works)
I used GPT to learn about shimming distributors as I had no knowledge of it, so when setting the timing, I certainly did not rev up to observe any problem .
It could be that I have messed things up because at one point, if my failing memory is correct, I put chose and used the best shaft on my current distributor and probably moved the single gear I had. So much for my expertise 😭
Any instructions or links how to best shim it will help! Thanks
My bad on the comment about the shims as that was a memory hiccup on my part. I was originally referring to shims in the vacuum can and not the end play for the lower gear. 0.022-0.030” is the 1957 specification for the distributor end play so it should be similar for the earlier model distributors.
The dual diaphragm L-O-M distributors and the 1957 and up distributor vacuum pots did have some adjustability at the vacuum chambers by using different shims, springs, and spacers. Looking through my stash of early single diaphragm L-O-M distributors, they all have non-adjustable vacuum pots.
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By KULTULZ - 2 days ago
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Ted, I can in no way imagine you as being 'bad'.
It finally dawned on me 'shimming' was meant to located the driven gear correctly on the shaft.
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By KULTULZ - 2 days ago
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FORD DEARBORN POSTED -
'The photo with "shim?" with arrow is not where shims are installed, if anywhere. That "collar" is to be tightly held in place with a roll pin. The collar should be pinned to allow a minimum of .020" up and down thrust of the shaft. My 1955 book calls for .020 to .024" thrust. The correct position of the gear is also a critical dimension that must be followed.'
There is your answer for the correct driven gear placement.
If one has a DIST that needs the driven gear relocated, the normal practice is (was) to locate the collar/gear and re-drill the shaft ninety degrees off and insert new pins.
If you have a NOS DIST, all of the adjustments should be correct out of the box.
Be mindful that the actual DIST ASSY CASTING NO on the bowl is an ID NO and not a SERVICE PN. The SERVICE PN(s) you find in the CHASSIS CATALOG(S) may be superseded PN's and may cause confusion.
The correct vacuum signal from the carb has to be determined first before trying to change the DIST SETTINGS.
If after installing the NOS DIST you bought, if she rattles on acceleration get back as FORD had a fix for that.
Any questions at all just ask and someone will help you with them.
Still waiting for glamour shots of the car ...
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By Aris - Yesterday
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Thanks a million KULTULZ! Am on it this week to determine timing and other parameters however, to make a decision decide first I have to take delivery of the NOS as mentioned.
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By DANIEL TINDER - Yesterday
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Another advantage of a NOS unit over one merely sent out to be setup on a SUN machine (assuming it was originally done right at the factory), is the fresh shaft & bushing. The improved performance compared to one with worn parts is VERY noticeable. Of course, the ideal would be a fresh rebuild by a reputable expert with the full SUN complement, and a good stock of NOS, USA-made & specially tested ancillary parts (points, condensers, etc). Just finding a condenser with the right value, and points with the correct spring tension puts you a ‘leg up’ to start.
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By pintoplumber - Yesterday
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Aris, does the new NOS distributor and the new gear you have ordered have the 13 tooth count? Not 14 teeth.
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By KULTULZ - Yesterday
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I just had a revelation - 
If you bought DIST ASSY PN FAE 12127-A, it was released for the 1954 PASS CAR and LT 239CI (EBU), and will have a different timing curve than the 1954 MERC 256CI engine.
FYI - PN FAE 12127-A2 would have been the service replacement PN for the FAE 12127-A DIST.
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By Aris - 5 hours ago
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Dark, Sad Monday .....
Today I went back to basics so after confirming the timing Ok I decided to run one more dry/wet compression test, this time with a loaned dial compression meter, instead of my 40+ year old Motometer.
The results have put me in a really depressing mood and proved that my Motometer is only good for garbage...
Using GPT and the 120psi spec from my manual I got results showing among others a dry spread of 35psi (from 70 to 105) when the factory limit is only 15 and an overall spread of 70–130psi between dry and wet!
So while I was stupidly looking elsewhere, the cold number conclusion is that
my engine is quite worn, most likely with moderate ring wear on most cylinders and some really bad ones as well.
I still believe that the 6,000 miles the car came with here with, almost 40 years ago, is not wrong. The fact is that I am only a DIYer self-taught mechanic and I was apparently wrong in believing I could start driving it as if it was new. By adding 40,000 miles on it has taken its toll, as has been the case with my differential that I ended up having to replace it when it went bad some years back.
Now I am faced with hard to make decisions, however this time I believe I have Y-blocksforever to back me up 😅I'm contemplating repairing the 256 locally which with parts etc is an ordeal I have lived many times before with my other classics. Importing a short or long block is an option but in both cases I have to put into the equation shipping and custom duties 😪😪😪.
I read a higher than my 256 block are more available. Could I go higher while maintaining an almost complete authenticity 'look-wise' and use my peripheral parts? Should I go for the Loadomatic or a later one? I still want to keep my 6volts and if possible my 2140 Teapot so how does that chime in?
Your expert advise on this apparent headache will be greatly appreciated!
Thank you in advance!
Aris
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By KULTULZ - 3 hours ago
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TO BE 100% OF ENGINE CONDITION -
The compression test has to be done dry and wet to determine rings. It may be they are stuck because of sitting all these years. You will also need to perform a CYL LEAK-DOWN TEST as this will differentiate either rings or leaking valve(s). Maybe adjust the valves before the LEAK-DOWN TEST.
QUALITY OIL PRESSURE GAUGE.
You need a GOOD QUALITY COMPOUND VACUUM GAUGE to help diagnose.
Yes, you can use a later larger engine and keep the appearance of the OEM 256. It all depends on how you want to show and drive the car.
This is subject to the opinion of others here as this site has many talented people participating.
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