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By San Diego Ron - 15 Years Ago
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I took it apart to see if something could be bouncing around in there causing all the noise I'm getting...there wasn't and now I'm lost, #@&*+ again. I did mark position on flex plate before separating them in case that is what is balanced but need to know if I need to put transmission fluid in there during or after assembly...also where, how and what amount? I really feel stupid asking all these questions about engine (I do have Shop Manual for this car) but it tells nothing about this stuff. I would like to have engine back in car sometime this next week banging noise or not, just to see if it will once again run. Thanks again for help and patience.
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By rgrove - 15 Years Ago
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not sure i can help on reassy of converter, BUT is your car by chance a ford o matic? If so, do you have the 1 piece flexplate, or still the original style with the rivited on mounting ears? If you have the OE style, that may very well be your problem. mine got to the pont of almost sounding like rod knock at idle, but went away at speed. Is that what yours does?
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By San Diego Ron - 15 Years Ago
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Yes, Yes, and Yes. The tabs are riveted on and I can wiggle them by hand...one more than the other. The sound (bucket of bolts shaking) was worse at startup and quieting down after warm up or maybe with load. Can they be hammered down tight? 
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By aussiebill - 15 Years Ago
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Good chance thats the rattle noise you mentioned, those spring steel tabs should not be loose and are also often cracked.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 15 Years Ago
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Ron When you do put the converter back together there are balance marks that look like "O" that go together. Check the SIDE of the Aluminum finned half round object and match that mark with the one on the piece that it bolts onto. Add about one quart of ATF after it is put together through the hub opening.
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By San Diego Ron - 15 Years Ago
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Everyone here is so knowledgable...my car would have been a thing of the past without all this help and now I feel this train is on the right track. I'll try and tighten up the rivets and if that doesn't work look for a replacement to get this thing going. I too believe that may be the noise problem and would never been able to figure it out myself ...or even know how to put fluid in.
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By rgrove - 15 Years Ago
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IMHO, dont even try to tighten the rivits. IIRC, I think I got the updated (I think it came out in 57?) flexplate from tee-bird products for about $70 or so? Came with everything needed to convert. For the PITA it is to pull all of this apart, you couldnt pay me to chance it by just trying to tighten the rivits. If you think about the forces on them, how long do you suppose it would last until they wrk loose again? Ive also heard of guys spot welding the tabs, but then there can be balance issues. Id put money on that being the cause of your noise! Good luck! Ron *EDIT* - I just looked it up in my most recent tee-bird prods catalog. P/N 6375A, listed at $60. Call them to verify, and make sure its the updated 1 piece (I cant imagine it wouldnt be...) 800-423-3723
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By San Diego Ron - 15 Years Ago
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OK, I'll do what you say and find an update flex plate. I was thinking the same thing myself...How long can this last? May need a pry bar to get those bolts loose...suckers are really tight. Once flex plate is off should I replace rear seal or is that a whole new ballgame?
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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Just my 2 cents worth.You have the motor out now.I would get it on a stand so you can work on the bottom end in a little cleaner enviroment.Take the pan off and replace the rear main with a neoprene one from Best gaskets.You will need a pan gasket,seal for the oil feed tube to oil pump and an oil pump gasket if you want to have look at the oil pump condition.Also a good time to clean the oil pump pickup screen in the pan.When I took mine apart you could NOT see the mesh for all the accumulated junk on the pickup.The people at Tee-Bird are a great bunch.Helpful and great at answering questions.They would also have the mentioned parts to do the rear main except maybe the Best seal.Finding your noise problem is good.Keep up the good work.When you put it back together and it runs and drives like it should you will feel a real sense of accomplishment.I know how it is-been there, done that! ,By the way the Ford shop manual does not cover Fordomatic repairs and service.They had a separate book just for Fordomatic service.There are several on Ebay at various prices.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
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Ron: More on the converter. When you took it apart, did you replace the seal around the perimeter, just inside the bolt circle? It is an O ring type seal, but actually had a square cross section. It is probably hard, and has been disturbed, so it may leak if not replaced. Also, the hub of that converter is held in with about 6 bolts, and if you take it out you'll find a seal in there also. While it's out is a good time to replace them. Also, when you put the converter back on the trans, make sure the two tangs on the converter hub land between the keys in the front pump. You can verify this by turning the converter back and forth about 180 degrees. You will hear a slight click each way as the tangs contact the keys.
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By San Diego Ron - 15 Years Ago
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How would I have ever known to do this stuff....You guys should have your own TV show. TeeBirdProducts are sending out replacement for Flex Plate today. My little car (well not so little...of the seven vehicles I own, except for my F150 it is the largest) is going to be so happy.
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By San Diego Ron - 15 Years Ago
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Are you saying to fit converter to bell housing before bolting to flex plate, lower engine into position and then fasten? The replacement flex plate from tee bird looks as if it may bolt all around the converter not just the six bolts on two tabs....I could be looking at it wrong.
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By aussiebill - 15 Years Ago
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Allways install converter carefully into trans then align and bolt to engine, this is to avoid damage to the front pump seal.
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By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
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If you are installing the engine with the trans already in the car start the motor into the belhousing by aligning the pins on the motor.Bolt it up and then turn the flexplate to align with the holes in the convertor.You can only use the original 6 bolts but I guess the extra holes makes it easier to bolt it together.I had a look at the pic of the replacement flexplate.Looks like a much better design than the original.
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By MoonShadow - 15 Years Ago
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Make sure the converter is fully seated. You have to turn it back and forth while pushing in on it. It should slip back 1 or 2 times depending on your first stab. If the converter is not back behind the front of the bell housing it's not in far enough and as stated previously, even if you can get it to bolt up front pump damage may occur. Its not rocket science but a learned "feel". Also many of the converters have a couple of drain plugs on them. There are two larger holes in the flex plate that these have to line up with before installing the bolts. It is easiest to check this with the tranny out. Make the fitment pretty obvious. I hope I'm not preaching to the choir on this but just some tips I wanted to pass along. Chuck in NH
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By San Diego Ron - 15 Years Ago
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Sure glad I asked...for sure I would have bolted everything up first then tried to align up engine with converter attached to bell housing...Thanks for catching that, saved me again. Thought I would get a couple days off to get in some boating waiting for flex plate to show up but... NO, the damn kitchen wiring is messed up and popping breakers so now I get to craw around under the house with the spiders to run a new and seperate line to fridge...it's a must to keep the beer cold.
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By aussiebill - 15 Years Ago
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San Diego Ron (4/20/2010)
Sure glad I asked...for sure I would have bolted everything up first then tried to align up engine with converter attached to bell housing...Thanks for catching that, saved me again. Thought I would get a couple days off to get in some boating waiting for flex plate to show up but... NO, the damn kitchen wiring is messed up and popping breakers so now I get to craw around under the house with the spiders to run a new and seperate line to fridge...it's a must to keep the beer cold.Just open the window near the fridge and run a long extension lead out to power. that,ll keep the beer cold!!
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By San Diego Ron - 15 Years Ago
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No sooner came out from under house after running new line to fridge than the mailman showed up with my new flex plate (that was fast)...unfortunetly unable to work on car today. A must that I spend the rest of day drinking beer to dilute and ward off the effects of inhaling so much dust and fibers from insulation and to make me forget how bad my knees are hurting from crawling around down there...CHEERS!
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