I took it apart to see if something could be bouncing around in there causing all the noise I'm getting...there wasn't and now I'm lost, #@&*+ again. I did mark position on flex plate before separating them in case that is what is balanced but need to know if I need to put transmission fluid in there during or after assembly...also where, how and what amount? I really feel stupid asking all these questions about engine (I do have Shop Manual for this car) but it tells nothing about this stuff. I would like to have engine back in car sometime this next week banging noise or not, just to see if it will once again run. Thanks again for help and patience.

not sure i can help on reassy of converter, BUT is your car by chance a ford o matic?  If so, do you have the 1 piece flexplate, or still the original style with the rivited on mounting ears?

If you have the OE style, that may very well be your problem.  mine got to the pont of almost sounding like rod knock at idle, but went away at speed.  Is that what yours does?

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Yes, Yes, and Yes. The tabs are riveted on and I can wiggle them by hand...one more than the other. The sound (bucket of bolts shaking) was worse at startup and quieting down after warm up or maybe with load.

Can they be hammered down tight?

Good chance thats the rattle noise you mentioned, those spring steel tabs should not be loose and are also often cracked.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Ron

   When you do put the converter back together there are balance marks that look like "O" that go together. Check the SIDE of the Aluminum finned half round object and match that mark with the one on the piece that it bolts onto. Add about one quart of ATF after it is put together through the hub opening.

Everyone here is so knowledgable...my car would have been a thing of the past without all this help and now I feel this train is on the right track. I'll try and tighten up the rivets and if that doesn't work look for a replacement to get this thing going. I too believe that may be the noise problem and would never been able to figure it out myself ...or even know how to put fluid in.

IMHO, dont even try to tighten the rivits.  IIRC, I think I got the updated (I think it came out in 57?) flexplate from tee-bird products for about $70 or so?  Came with everything needed to convert.  For the PITA it is to pull all of this apart, you couldnt pay me to chance it by just trying to tighten the rivits.  If you think about the forces on them, how long do you suppose it would last until they wrk loose again?  Ive also heard of guys spot welding the tabs, but then there can be balance issues.

Id put money on that being the cause of your noise!

Good luck! 

Ron

*EDIT* - I just looked it up in my most recent tee-bird prods catalog.  P/N 6375A, listed at $60.  Call them to verify, and make sure its the updated 1 piece (I cant imagine it wouldnt be...)  800-423-3723

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

OK, I'll do what you say and find an update flex plate. I was thinking the same thing myself...How long can this last? May need a pry bar to get those bolts loose...suckers are really tight. Once flex plate is off should I replace rear seal or is that a whole new ballgame?

Just my 2 cents worth.You have the motor out now.I would get it on a stand so you can work on the bottom end in a little cleaner enviroment.Take the pan off and replace the rear main with a neoprene one from Best gaskets.You will need a pan gasket,seal for the oil feed tube to oil pump and an oil pump gasket if you want to have look at the oil pump condition.Also a good time to clean the oil pump pickup screen in the pan.When I took mine apart you could NOT see the mesh for all the accumulated junk on the pickup.The people at Tee-Bird are a great bunch.Helpful and great at answering questions.They would also have the mentioned parts to do the rear main except maybe the Best seal.Finding your noise problem is good.Keep up the good work.When you put it back together and it runs and drives like it should you will feel a real sense of accomplishment.I know how it is-been there, done that! ,By the way the Ford shop manual does not cover Fordomatic repairs and service.They had a separate book just for Fordomatic service.There are several on Ebay at various prices.

  

Ron:

More on the converter.  When you took it apart, did you replace the seal around the perimeter, just inside the bolt circle?  It is an O ring type seal, but actually had a square cross section.  It is probably hard, and has been disturbed, so it may leak if not replaced.  Also, the hub of that converter is held in with about 6 bolts, and if you take it out you'll find a seal in there also.  While it's out is a good time to replace them.

Also, when you put the converter back on the trans, make sure the two tangs on the converter hub land between the keys in the front pump.  You can verify this by turning the converter back and forth about 180 degrees.  You will hear a slight click each way as the tangs contact the keys.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"