By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
|
Wondering if anyone has experimented with reduced opening/drilled shim sizes? Currently running truck-type gasket (reduced port size) and HAVE noticed range of choke spring reduced, but auto choke still works OK. How small can the opening be (for reduced charge temp.) and still have acceptable choke functioning? If spring range is too limited, achieving full open position when hot may not allow for enough cold choking to be useful?
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
|
I should point out this (obviously) only applies to OEM manifolds with riser-heat operated chokes.
|
By Hoosier Hurricane - 15 Years Ago
|
Use a '61 or later rh exhaust manifold, it has a provision for choke heat.
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
|
Hoosier Hurricane (6/2/2010) Use a '61 or later rh exhaust manifold, it has a provision for choke heat.
That would be my only route if ever get the new aluminum manifold (better carb & dist included). But for now, just enough riser heat to operate the teapot choke will do. I'll likely try half the truck gasket opening size.
|
By Ted - 15 Years Ago
|
Although I’ve restricted the heat riser passages in the past to simply allow the carburetor to run cooler, I’ve not researched just how much those passages can be restricted before the automatic choke capability becomes non-functional. In many instances, I simply block off the heat passages completely at the intake and resort to other choke devices or controls which solves a myriad of other related problems in my part of the country. How about an electric choke? John’s suggestion with the exhaust manifold is a good one as I’ve done that on a ’56 Ford with the Holley Teapot carb. A mechanical choke is also an option if you don’t mind running the cable. I run the mechanical choke on my ’55 and does give me the option of having a ‘fast idle’ anytime I need it. Fast idle capability comes in handy when jump starting scrubs.
|
By marvh - 15 Years Ago
|
Ted:
I run the mechanical choke on my ’55 and does give me the option of having a ‘fast idle’ anytime I need it.Fast idle capability comes in handy when jump starting scrubs
yeah a 55 with a 6 volt battery
|
By Ted - 15 Years Ago
|
A 12 volt electric choke coil actually works on a 6 volt application. Just a tad slower which as most electric chokes go, is a good thing. And my '55 is converted over to 12 volt using an alternator.
|
By marvh - 15 Years Ago
|
Just a jesting you Ted on boosting a scrub with 6 volt battery.
marv
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
|
Ted (6/3/2010) A 12 volt electric choke coil actually works on a 6 volt application...
Concerned about power drain (?). 6V generator system already stressed by OD solenoid & frequent night driving (high beam, mostly).
|
By oldcarmark - 15 Years Ago
|
Theres an aftermarket kit shows up on Ebay quite often.Puts the hot air tube into the exhaust manifold.Ford actually went to that as a service replacement for the tubes in the intake manifold.Had one on my car then I went to the newer carb with electric choke.
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
|
Ted (6/3/2010) A 12 volt electric choke coil actually works on a 6 volt application. Just a tad slower...
Right. My 12V replacement cig. lighter takes about 3 times longer to pop out.
Just noticed the riser holes in the truck-type intake gaskets are of unequal size. Something related to the exhaust manifold riser valve? Which side was the larger hole originally intended for?
|
By Ted - 15 Years Ago
|
marvh (6/3/2010) Just a jesting you Ted on boosting a scrub with 6 volt battery. marvIf the Customline was still 6 volts, I’d just have to push start the scrubs.
|
By Ted - 15 Years Ago
|
DANIEL TINDER (6/3/2010)
Ted (6/3/2010) A 12 volt electric choke coil actually works on a 6 volt application... Concerned about power drain (?). 6V generator system already stressed by OD solenoid & frequent night driving (high beam, mostly). If an electric choke coil throws you over the edge, then you’ve already got other problems. Higher output charging systems are obviously the fix for loaded down electrical systems. There’s a lot to be said for upgrading the original 6V generator systems to 12 volts and an alternator. If you’re intent on keeping the car original with a 6 volt generator, then the limitations of that system must be kept to the forefront.
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 15 Years Ago
|
Ted,
Force of habit. Minor drain from choke coil likely wouldn't be an issue after all. Just the resistance eliminated after my solid state OD relay conversion should cover it. Also, vigilance against frivolous 6V electrical add-ons not as necessary nowadays, since most everyone has a high-tech trickle charger. Back in the day, too many do-dads would eventually leave you stranded.
|