Ted,



Force of habit. Minor drain from choke coil likely wouldn't be an issue after all. Just the resistance eliminated after my solid state OD relay conversion should cover it. Also, vigilance against frivolous 6V electrical add-ons not as necessary nowadays, since most everyone has a high-tech trickle charger. Back in the day, too many do-dads would eventually leave you stranded.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

If an electric choke coil throws you over the edge, then you’ve already got other problems.  Higher output charging systems are obviously the fix for loaded down electrical systems.  There’s a lot to be said for upgrading the original 6V generator systems to 12 volts and an alternator.  If you’re intent on keeping the car original with a 6 volt generator, then the limitations of that system must be kept to the forefront.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

If the Customline was still 6 volts, I’d just have to push start the scrubs.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Right. My 12V replacement cig. lighter takes about 3 times longer to pop out.

Just noticed the riser holes in the truck-type intake gaskets are of unequal size. Something related to the exhaust manifold riser valve? Which side was the larger hole originally intended for?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Theres an aftermarket kit shows up on Ebay quite often.Puts the hot air tube into the exhaust manifold.Ford actually went  to that as a service replacement for the tubes in the intake manifold.Had one on my car then I went to the newer carb with electric choke.

  

Concerned about power drain (?). 6V generator system already stressed by OD solenoid & frequent night driving (high beam, mostly).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Just a jesting you Ted on boosting a scrub with 6 volt battery.

marv

A 12 volt electric choke coil actually works on a 6 volt application.  Just a tad slower which as most electric chokes go, is a good thing.

 

And my '55 is converted over to 12 volt using an alternator.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

yeah a 55 with a 6 volt battery

Although I’ve restricted the heat riser passages in the past to simply allow the carburetor to run cooler, I’ve not researched just how much those passages can be restricted before the automatic choke capability becomes non-functional.  In many instances, I simply block off the heat passages completely at the intake and resort to other choke devices or controls which solves a myriad of other related problems in my part of the country.

 

How about an electric choke?  John’s suggestion with the exhaust manifold is a good one as I’ve done that on a ’56 Ford with the Holley Teapot carb.  A mechanical choke is also an option if you don’t mind running the cable.  I run the mechanical choke on my ’55 and does give me the option of having a ‘fast idle’ anytime I need it.  Fast idle capability comes in handy when jump starting scrubs.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)