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By eyks2 - 14 Years Ago
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I have recently rebuilt my 292 with a FordOMatic behind it. Transmission has new gaskets. After starting my motor; I have a knock at low rpms. It goes away at high rpms. Sounds like a rod knock, but I was told that it is transmission related. After pulling the pan off the motor; I tend to believe that. Have pulled transmission back out and have replaced the torque converter and fly wheel. Still have the problem. Has anyone had this problem?? Need help. you can call at 616-891-1673 or 616-299-0153. Trying to get back on the road. Thanks for any help. I will be checking this forum for responses.
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By Pete 55Tbird - 14 Years Ago
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some people have found that a knocking at lower rpm in a FOM car is caused by cracks in the "ears" that are riveted onto the flex-plate. Pete
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By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
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Pete 55Tbird (7/4/2011)
some people have found that a knocking at lower rpm in a FOM caris caused by cracks in the "ears" that are riveted onto the flex-plate. Pete
This ^
They released a 1 piece flex plate in 57 which eliminated the problem. I went through the same thing.
Tee bird products had the 1 piece when i swapped mine out. It was like $70 at the time....
That is by far the most likely culprit
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By aussiebill - 14 Years Ago
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Pete 55Tbird (7/4/2011)
some people have found that a knocking at lower rpm in a FOM car is caused by cracks in the "ears" that are riveted onto the flex-plate. PetePete, i thought he had replaced both the converter and flexplate and noise was still there, you are right with the cracked ears or loose rivets, i would assume he checked the replacement ones or at least will.
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By eyks2 - 14 Years Ago
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I have changed the torque converter and the flex plate and I still have the problem. Is there a ring that goes on the back of the flex plate on the 55? Is there anything else I can try? I changed the transmission; I didn't have this problem with the first one. I put the old torque converter and flex plate from this one into the new one. Thanks for the info and quick response. This one really has me confused.
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By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
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Is it the one piece flex plate, or did the replacement still have the rivited ears? I couldnt be sure from your post? Just to confirm please...
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By eyks2 - 14 Years Ago
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It was the original one. It has the riveted ears.. I replaced the transmission because it was leaking. With the one I purchased, I had all new gaskets put in and rings. I have now put my old torque converter which worked in the old one, into this one. I have taken parts from the old and put into this new one. Can it be anything else?? I am willing to try anything.
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By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
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I would get rid of that riveted flex plate first and then go from there. They are notorious for loose rivets and cracks. Makes a terrible sound when they go bad. Chuck
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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Just tightened the bolts on mine, used to do it when putting into gear. Could have sounded worse as my front uni joint was completely shot too.
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By eyks2 - 14 Years Ago
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MINE DOESE IN PARK AND IN GEAR ,BUT ONLY AT IDEAL AS SOON AS I GET RPM'S UP IT GOESE AWAY .SOUNDS LIKE A ROD HAMMER THANKS FOR INPUT
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By Talkwrench - 14 Years Ago
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Im just going to throw this out there ..just incase check and make sure the exhaust is not banging in the frame..
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By eyks2 - 14 Years Ago
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Hello I just found a flex plate on ebay #270777259990. Is this what I need? And does it work on an air cooled FordOMatic transmission? Thanks for the help
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By 'GB'ird - 14 Years Ago
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That looks like the one and a good price too (at the moment!). You'll need the spacer rings - I believe T-bird Products sell them separately- and bolts of the correct length. I can't recall what this is but they musn't be too long or they'll foul. Richard
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By eyks2 - 14 Years Ago
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Are you talking the one that goes on the back of the plate onto the crank?? Does it just take one or does it take two?? thanks again for your help on this project.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 14 Years Ago
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It takes 6, and if they are too long they will hit the back of the block and the rear main seal retainer.
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By LON - 14 Years Ago
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I have found 2 types of early air cooled flexplates ,both with ring gear bolted to the convertor .One has 4 ears & one has 2 ears .Have had trouble with both types .The first one I had ( 4 ears ) all broke ,and the noise sounded like the bottom end was going to let go in a big way ??? The second convertor( 2 ears, 3 bolts bolts in each ear ) developed a knock at idle ???? When I finally pulled the motor & box out I found all the rivets were in place but the piece of spring steel on one side ,was like jelly ???? It moved that much at idle it was hitting the inside if the bellhousing ,causing the knock . It was fine when you revved it . Fixed the problem by going to a late model flex plate & a seperate convertor . Lon
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By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
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Very very very very likely the flex plate. I had same problem, and replaced with the one piece flex plate from tee bird prods and it was cured. Common problem. The rivited ears get just loose enough over tme to make that hammering/rod knock sound at idle. Goes away with any kind of rpms or load.
You could try spot welding the ears with it still in the car to test, but i wouldnt waste the time/effort. This is a very common issue with the rivited flex plates.
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By 'GB'ird - 14 Years Ago
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eyks2 (7/8/2011)
Are you talking the one that goes on the back of the plate onto the crank?? Does it just take one or does it take two?? thanks again for your help on this project.For a '55 I think you'll need two spacers. Richard
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By eyks2 - 14 Years Ago
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I purchased the new flex plate from Tee Bird. Still having the same problem. Any suggestions?? I am getting faster at pulling the tranny out though.
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