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1955 FordOMatic air cooled transmission

Posted By eyks2 14 Years Ago
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eyks2
Posted 14 Years Ago
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I have recently rebuilt my 292 with a FordOMatic behind it.  Transmission has new gaskets. After starting my motor; I have a knock at low rpms.  It goes away at high rpms.  Sounds like a rod knock, but I was told that it is transmission related.  After pulling the pan off the motor; I tend to believe that.  Have pulled transmission back out and have replaced the torque converter and fly wheel.  Still  have the problem.  Has anyone had this  problem??  Need help.  you can call at 616-891-1673 or 616-299-0153.  Trying to get back on the road.  Thanks for any help.  I will be checking this forum for responses.
Pete 55Tbird
Posted 14 Years Ago
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some people have found that a knocking at lower rpm in a FOM car is caused by cracks in the "ears" that are riveted onto the flex-plate. Pete
rgrove
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Pete 55Tbird (7/4/2011)
some people have found that a knocking at lower rpm in a FOM caris caused by cracks in the "ears" that are riveted onto the flex-plate. Pete




This ^



They released a 1 piece flex plate in 57 which eliminated the problem. I went through the same thing.

Tee bird products had the 1 piece when i swapped mine out. It was like $70 at the time....

That is by far the most likely culprit

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

aussiebill
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Pete 55Tbird (7/4/2011)
some people have found that a knocking at lower rpm in a FOM car is caused by cracks in the "ears" that are riveted onto the flex-plate. Pete

Pete, i thought he had replaced both the converter and flexplate and noise was still there, you are right with the cracked ears or loose rivets, i would assume he checked the replacement ones or at least will.Smile

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

eyks2
Posted 14 Years Ago
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I have changed the torque converter and the flex plate and I still have the problem.  Is there a ring that goes on the back of the flex plate on the 55?  Is there anything else I can try?  I changed the transmission; I didn't have this problem with the first one.  I put the old torque converter and flex plate from this one into the new one.  Thanks for the info and quick response.  This one really has me confused.
rgrove
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Is it the one piece flex plate, or did the replacement still have the rivited ears? I couldnt be sure from your post? Just to confirm please...

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

eyks2
Posted 14 Years Ago
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It was the original one.  It has the riveted ears..  I replaced the transmission because it was leaking.  With the one I purchased, I had all new gaskets put in and rings.   I have now put my old torque converter which worked in the old one, into this one.  I have taken parts from the old and put into this new one.  Can it be anything else??  I am willing to try anything.
MoonShadow
Posted 14 Years Ago
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I would get rid of that riveted flex plate first and then go from there. They are notorious for loose rivets and cracks. Makes a terrible sound when they go bad. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

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Talkwrench
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Just tightened the bolts on mine, used to do it when putting into gear. Could have sounded worse as my front uni joint was completely shot too.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/02c74785-3ce2-4b80-a66c-f31f.jpg

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eyks2
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Last Active: 10 Years Ago
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MINE DOESE IN PARK AND IN GEAR ,BUT ONLY AT IDEAL AS SOON AS I GET RPM'S UP IT GOESE AWAY .SOUNDS LIKE A ROD HAMMER    THANKS FOR INPUT


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