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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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I have been through the archives and still haven't found what I need. My generator on the 57 Bird died today. I want to install a Ford/Motorcraft conventional 3 wire alternator not a GM part. I need some info on mounting bracketry. I see Mummert has them for Yblocks but not Tbirds. I don't want a Powermaster, etc. or a conversion kit because if needed, I want to be able to replace the alternator from a local parts store, not special order stuff. 60 amps or so is fine for my needs. Anyone have a source for the brackets I would need?
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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I have seen several examples of using the existing brackets for the Generator with a little handiwork and spacers to mount an alternator.It can be done and doesn't look mickey-mouse.Get hold of the alternator and go from there.
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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mark, I used this method to install a alternator years ago. I'm sure you will have to modify it a little to fit your 'Bird. Has worked fine... Surprised to see it's still on the net http://www.y-block.info/tips/alt/alt.html Google is your friend 
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By chiggerfarmer - 12 Years Ago
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I have done a couple of installations in the far distant past using the Ford alternator that was common in the 70's (such as the 55 amp). I remember being somewhat stumped on wiring, and used the harness from a parts car. I sort of experimented with it until I found the right combination, but never was able to get the factory dash indicator light to work. If anyone does this conversion using the Ford alternator, a diagram of how you wire it sure would be much appreciated.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks for the help. I will be heading to the pic&pull later this week for a core alternator and harness. I still need to decide about a 15 Ohm resistor to go parallel with the warning light bulb. I understand that if the bulb burns out, the alternator stops charging, so the resistor is the back up for the circuit. Am I right about this?
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By oldcarmark - 12 Years Ago
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The Master Cylinder (11/11/2013)
mark, I used this method to install a alternator years ago. I'm sure you will have to modify it a little to fit your 'Bird. Has worked fine... Surprised to see it's still on the net http://www.y-block.info/tips/alt/alt.html Google is your friend
The second picture showing the mounting bracket using most of the existing brackets is the one I was thinking of.I think you could refine it even further if you looked at for awhile.
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By BLACK57ECODE - 12 Years Ago
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Mark, here is another option to consider, keep the look but change the function - but not cheap! Tony b
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By stuey - 12 Years Ago
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i'm looking to install a ford 3g large case on my setup and have been doing lots of "surfing" unfortunately my puter crashed about a week ago and i lost all my book marks photos etc.
i think you are correct about the resistor. and be careful of the early ford 2g alternators i believe they were a fire risk because the connectors were spade connectors not a more beefy stud.
good luck
stuey
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Regarding the PowerGen alternator in a generator case, I looked at it but the price doesn't work for me. Also, if it were to fail, usually at the most difficult time, I want to be able to find a replacement at a local auto parts store.
My 65 Galaxie has stud mounted connections but I haven't made it to the Pick&Pull yet. Finding anything that early would be rare around here, mostly late 70's is the oldest stuff in the yards. Also been looking for info on using a 15 ohm resistor from Radio Shack, etc. instead of rooting around for a resistor wire in the wrecking yard.
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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MarkMontereyBay (11/11/2013)
Thanks for the help. I will be heading to the pic&pull later this week for a core alternator and harness. I still need to decide about a 15 Ohm resistor to go parallel with the warning light bulb. I understand that if the bulb burns out, the alternator stops charging, so the resistor is the back up for the circuit. Am I right about this?
Mark,
I have heard of installing a resistor if you don't run a warning light so it might be true. Never heard of having a light and a resistor tho.
I DO KNOW that there is sometimes a need to run a diode in the excitor wire to prevent backfeed to the ignition. NOT FUN when you shut off your engine and it keeps running. 
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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This is a post from the archives from MarvH explaining what I am trying to sort out with the indicator bulb and exciter wire.
marvh (11/13/2011)
[quote]292fan (11/13/2011)
Congrats on getting it going and good find!! If the Alt ever quits charging check the bulb in the dash first because of previous post. Found out the embarrassing (and expensive)way that the bulb is needed to complete the circuit.
Steve
You can fix that problem of an alternator not charging should the indicator light bulb burn out by adding a resistance wire parallel to bulb circuit.
One end of the bulb circuit connects to the "I" side of the ignition switch and the other end is connected to the regulator. To hook up the resistance wire; splice one end of the resistance wire to same "I post on the ignition switch and the other end of the resistance wire splice to the bulb wire past the gen bulb.
Factory installed a 14-17 ohm resistance wire to prevent this no charging just in case the bulb did burn out on cars with alternators. I look for early 70's cars with idiot lights for this wire in the under dash wiring loom. It is a green wire with red tracer marked "do not cut or splice resistance wire", take the whole length of wire out with the staked terminals and a short piece of the copper wire on each end. Do not shorten the resistance wire or you will change its value. Cars with guages do not have the resistance wire, the wire is marked the same green with red tracer also, but no marking do not cut or splice. An ohmmeter will tell if you have the correct resistance needed.
marv[/quote
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Here is a photo of a Pick&Pull Motorcraft 40 AMP alternator from a 76 Ford F250 FE 360 without thermactor air (smog pump) that is going on my 57 Bird. Should be fairly easy to accomplish. The long bolt for the alternator from the F250 will work if the lock washer is removed from between the bolt head and the Tbird bracket surface. This allows to bolt head to sit closer to the bracket surface to clear the alternator belt and allow some threads on the other end to attach a nut to secure it. The spacer I have is from the truck and it is about 3/4 inch too long so it will need to be shortened. My plan is to get longer bolts that attach the generator bracket to the timing cover with spacers to shift the bracket forward (towards the radiator) about 1/2 to 3/4 inches to line up the alternator pulley with the water pump/crank pulleys. A longer belt, maybe 2 inches or so it can reach the alternator pulley. The alternator hits the generator bracket in the position shown and a fabricated slide adjuster with a longer reach needs to be made. After removing the alternator from the F250 yesterday I was walking back to the yard office and came across a 66 Galaxie 4dr. Laying on the ground was a 60 AMP Motorcraft alternator and slide just waiting for me to pick it up. Same case style and terminals as the F250. I got both of them to fiddle with.
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By 312T85Bird - 12 Years Ago
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If you can find a '65 or '66 F-100 or f-250 with a factory alternator at the Pic & Pull and a 292 it would have everything you need to convert with very little Mod.
312T85Bird
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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
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312T85Bird (11/16/2013)
If you can find a '65 or '66 F-100 or f-250 with a factory alternator at the Pic & Pull and a 292 it would have everything you need to convert with very little Mod.
312T85Bird
A '65 or '66 will not have a Y block.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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True. The last Yblock, the 292, was in the 64 F series. Passenger car Yblocks went away after 62 in the US. All were equipped with generators. The Tbirds have a spacer between the water pump and timing cover and also use a truck style front motor mount which are different than the Yblock passenger cars. They have a different generator bracket assembly.
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By marvh - 12 Years Ago
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The late 64 pickups used alternators. They are very hard to find. Here is a pic of one of those brackets with a 130 amp Ford 3G alternator.
here is a link to a site on the 3G's and diagram of the resister used for idiot light failure
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/622517-67-3g-alternator-conversion-questions.html
I tried to post a picture however cannot do as I don't see the picture posting icon anymore.
marv
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks Marv, those diagrams will help a lot. I had a 64 F250 292 for years, would not die. Stolen twice and got it back each time still running great. It had an alternator but I remember looking it over and deciding it was converted from a generator system. I didn't know they had alternators in 64. Spent the day going back and forth to the nuts and bolts section of the hardware store. Looks like a section of 7/16 threaded rod is the best choice to replace the long bolt that hangs the alternator in the bracket. I need a few more threads to bolt it on and couldn't find any 7/16 diameter bolts over 6 inches. I think I will use the Tbird slide adjuster arm and fab a 2 or 3 inch solid arm to bolt to the alternator in a fixed position with a hole at the other end to meet the slide adjuster groove using a bolt and nut to set the belt tension.
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By The Master Cylinder - 12 Years Ago
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marvh (11/16/2013)
I tried to post a picture however cannot do as I don't see the picture posting icon anymore.
marv
Marv, I don't see any of the icons anymore, for posting pictures, links or editing????
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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I have been using Photobucket but it doesn't work as well as it used to.
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By skygazer - 12 Years Ago
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FYI,
I used an inexpensive alternator conversion from eBay on my '55 bird, and it has worked fine for the last nearly 18 months...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251382505328
it was very simple to bypass the regulator, and the generator light works.
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By MarkMontereyBay - 12 Years Ago
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Thanks for the link. I looked it over also. If it was just the brackets I might have gone for it but you have to use their alternator(GM). I finished mocking up the install today. I used the Ford alternator and stuff from the 65 Galaxie. I had to shave off some length from the spacer that goes on the shaft(bolt) behind the alternator. I used some spacers and longer grade 8 bolts (2) to mount the Tbird bracket forward enough to line up the pulleys. I was able to reshape the Galaxie slide adjuster and drill the mounting hole out to allow bolting it to the timing cover. All that is left to do is clean everything up and paint, get a belt to fit and hook up the wires. So far the cost is for the used alternator, bolts, spacers, etc from the Pick and Pull and some stuff from the hardware store. Found a source for a longer 7/16 bolt on ebay that hangs the alternator in the bracket but using the Galaxie one for now. I wanted to use common Ford stuff. I tested the diodes on the used alternator and they are good and the bearing feels fine. If it doesn't work out I will get a rebuilt unit to replace it. Then a 15 ohm resistor to back up the indicator bulb exciter circuit. I'll put up some photos when it's finished up. Looks like a factory set up.
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