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By BudMan - 12 Years Ago
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I have a couple of specific questions. Where should the timing be set for the initial start? Is the vacuum advance to the distributor hooked up or plugged? What is the best way to make sure that I have spark without spinning the engine? I want the engine to turn over once or twice and then fire and run smoothly at about 2000-2500 rpm for at least 20 minutes, varying the rpms occasionally. Also, Would it be a good idea to drizzle oil over the rocker arms before bolting down the valve covers? What about squirting oil down holes in the heads where the pushrods go? I may have a few more questions before Saturday. It is nerve-racking to know that you can destroy your engine in the first few minutes of operation if things aren't right. Thanks for any and all help!
p,s. Maybe pictures and video will follow tomorrow.
Bud
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By Frankenstein57 - 12 Years Ago
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Bud , this is kind of basic, but you need to prime the oiling system prior to starting it. We used to use a drill on our FE engines , I thought maybe backwards? We had a dummy prime shaft
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By BudMan - 12 Years Ago
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Thank you very much for your comment. I have primed the engine and rotated the the crankshaft and primed again. I am most concerned about where to set the timing as I need it to fire and go!
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By 312T85Bird - 12 Years Ago
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You are correct that the drill shouild run in reverse in a Y as well as an FE. Thanks for the article earlier today.
Man my back is killing me after fixing my rear main leak yesterday. Actually as you probably know it was not a rear main but the valley pan gasket so I threw the neopreme crap away and installed a cork that I bought from Hill's Thunderbird Center, but everyone likes to blame any leak on the rear main so I thought I should too. LOL By the way, they mentioned your name along with your Brother at the Hall of Fame Ceremony, but I was not sure that you were aware of that, I was glad that Charlie finally got in.
Tom
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By Daniel Jessup - 12 Years Ago
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BudMan (11/16/2013)
I have a couple of specific questions. Where should the timing be set for the initial start? Is the vacuum advance to the distributor hooked up or plugged? What is the best way to make sure that I have spark without spinning the engine? I want the engine to turn over once or twice and then fire and run smoothly at about 2000-2500 rpm for at least 20 minutes, varying the rpms occasionally. Also, Would it be a good idea to drizzle oil over the rocker arms before bolting down the valve covers? What about squirting oil down holes in the heads where the pushrods go? I may have a few more questions before Saturday. It is nerve-racking to know that you can destroy your engine in the first few minutes of operation if things aren't right. Thanks for any and all help!
p,s. Maybe pictures and video will follow tomorrow.
Bud
Bud, I always set the timing right on TDC, and put the rotor right on #1 as it is coming up to fire off. You can adjust the timing later after the engine has already had it's break-in and is warmed up. I have never had an overheating or detonation problem when doing it this way.
A couple of tips...
double check your battery, full 12 volts
check your cables - nice and tight, carrying the juice
What ignition set up are you using? If using the old points and condenser, you could turn on your ignition and manually advance your crankshaft to see a spark at your points. Some guys like to do something like that before starting it up and will actually pull a spark plug and watch it arc. Just about the same idea although as you know, the spark from the points happens a whole lot more frequently than just what happens at the end of a plug wire.
double check your fuel supply. Clean? good pressure? fresh fuel in the tank? I would suggest filling the carburetor fuel bowl either manually or with an electric pump before you turn the engine over. It saves a lot of cranking.
I have never had to put oil on the rocker arms or down in the push rod holes, and of course you have already verified oil delivery to the top end right? So you are ok there. More often than not if there are any oiling problems they are going to show up at your camshaft/lifters first. They seem to be the most sensitive.
Take heart my friend... this is almost like giving birth to a baby. Thankfully, it is the closest a man will ever come to that! 
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By 312T85Bird - 12 Years Ago
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If this is a Fresh Build, remember to use a Zink start up additive and follow the break in instructions, usually 2500 until it gets hot then let it cool off and do it again. This breaks the cam in correctly.
312T85Bird
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By ian57tbird - 12 Years Ago
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To check for spark, remove your cap and unplug the high tension lead from the cap and hold the end of the lead close to a ground. With the ignition on, make sure your points are in a closed position then carefully open them with a small screwdriver. each time you open then you should get a spark. You can also rotate the distributor to open and close the points instead of using a screwdriver.
For initially setting timing I rotate the engine to the exact point I want it to fire (example 6 degrees BTDC) then connect a test light on the distributor terminal of the coil and ground the other end. Leaving the hold down clamp loose, get the distributor in position so that the points are closed just before the rotor is coming up to number 1 on the cap. Rotate the distributor opposite direction to direction of rotation and the moment the test light comes on is the point at which it will fire. The light will come on because the points have opened and the power will then go to ground through the test light. I find this method very accurate and usually spot on. If you think you turned the distributor too far then just rotate it back slightly and try again.
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By BudMan - 12 Years Ago
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Well, the deed is done! She fired right up and ran smoothly at about 2500 rpms for 20 mins or so. I noted a few small oil leaks that I am going to have to chase down. Oil pressure was 55 psi and the temp held steady at 180. Dieseled a little when I shut it down. I let it cool for about an hour, then did it again for another 20 mins. Then I slowed to idle, hooked up the vacuum to the distributor and timed it at 3 degrees. It advances to about 15 degrees when throttled up. All in all, I am pleased and relieved with how the morning went. My son took some videos but he has to take them off his iphone and send them to me. ll try to post them if I can figure out how to do it. I love the sound of a y-block at idle with a mild cam. Thanks to everyone who gave me suggestions. They were a great help and much appreciated. Time for a beer!
Bud
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By paul2748 - 12 Years Ago
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You might want to try 8 to 10 degrees initial advance. YBlocks seem to like it.
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By PF Arcand - 12 Years Ago
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Bud: If you shut the engine down, while it was at 2500 rpm,(?) that would cause it to diesel..not a good idea.
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By BudMan - 12 Years Ago
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I brought it down to idle then shut it down. It was quite a bit off time and I think that is what caused the dieseling. Once it was timed, it starts and shuts down properly.
Bud
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By vntgtrk - 12 Years Ago
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OK good info for me come about spring. The rebuilder gave me some break-in oil.
What about re-torqueing? Wait till 500 mile check and do valve adj as well?
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By BudMan - 12 Years Ago
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Here is a link to a YouTube video of the first start of the engine.
http://youtu.be/OCV64ct6O7Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCV64ct6O7Y
These don't show up as hyperlinks so you will probably have to copy and paste them into the address bar of your browser. After thinking about how the start-up went and watching the video, there a a couple of things that I would do differently. Since you want the engine to start immediately and get the rpm to 2K-3K as soon as possible, I would set the initial timing at 15-20 degrees without vacuum advance. I started at about 3 degrees, and as the video shows, It did not want to start. In the video you will see me manually advance the timing twice to get the engine to run and get it up to rpm. After it was running, I checked the timing and it was above the 20 degree mark. Since timing needs to be advanced to run at a higher rpm, it seems to me that that's how it should be set for the initial start and run-in. Also, have a screw driver nearby to advance the idle screw and if that won't keep the rrpms up, then have a piece of wire handy to tie the accelerator open. The last part of the video shows the engine starting after the run-in (twice) and then the timing set and vacuum hooked up to the distributor. It fires immediately and idles smoothly. Listen to the sound at the rear of the car. Fantastic
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By BudMan - 12 Years Ago
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After posting, the links do show up as hyperlinks so all you have to do id click on the links.
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By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
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Sounds good! Not to mention this is the first time I remember seeing your car. Nice work. Now if you could just get that scrub out of the driveway and go cruizing. Second startup sounded perfect.
Although you didn't have problems with your links often people forget to space after the hyperlink and put in a period etc. then they aren't recognized as hyperlinks. Chuck
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By yblock - 12 Years Ago
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re 1st start, i always mix small amount of oil and gas,pour a small amount doen carb,move the cotainer faraway with timing at some advanc (5dg) then crank her up. if you lubed the cam with a molley based grease from the suppler of cam ther is no need for the cam breakin every 1 tells.when you are sure no leaks and fluid levels correct then take the car for a good run vary the speed a bit bring it up to temp and you are done.do not chang the oil for at least 500miles. change the filter and open it up you will find some dirt etce,cut filter with a sharp chisel so no cuttings from a saw.I have done a no. of wblock overhauls no failure to date,most have had reground cams and refaced lifters(by the cam grinder). yust my experiance
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By The Horvaths - 12 Years Ago
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Good work all around. Exhaust sounds great. Y-Blocks are special that way. Keep us posted on your build.
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By jrw429 - 12 Years Ago
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Very nice, thanks for sharing your experience.
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