I have a couple of specific questions. Where should the timing be set for the initial start? Is the vacuum advance to the distributor hooked up or plugged? What is the best way to make sure that I have spark without spinning the engine? I want the engine to turn over once or twice and then fire and run smoothly at about 2000-2500 rpm for at least 20 minutes, varying the rpms occasionally. Also, Would it be a good idea to drizzle oil over the rocker arms before bolting down the valve covers? What about squirting oil down holes in the heads where the pushrods go? I may have a few more questions before Saturday. It is nerve-racking to know that you can destroy your engine in the first few minutes of operation if things aren't right. Thanks for any and all help!

p,s. Maybe pictures and video will follow tomorrow.

Bud

When Injustice Becomes Law, Resistance Becomes Duty

Bud , this is kind of basic, but you need to prime the oiling system prior to starting it. We used to use a drill on our FE engines , I thought maybe backwards? We had a dummy prime shaft





thanks, Mark

Thank you very much for your comment. I have primed the engine and rotated the the crankshaft and primed again. I am most concerned about where to set the timing as I need it to fire and go!

When Injustice Becomes Law, Resistance Becomes Duty

You are correct that the drill shouild run in reverse in a Y as well as an FE. Thanks for the article earlier today.

Man my back is killing me after fixing my rear main leak yesterday. Actually as you probably know it was not a rear main but the valley pan gasket so I threw the neopreme crap away and installed a cork that I bought from Hill's Thunderbird Center, but everyone likes to blame any leak on the rear main so I thought I should too. LOL By the way, they mentioned your name along with your Brother at the Hall of Fame Ceremony, but I was not sure that you were aware of that, I was glad that Charlie finally got in.

Tom

What?

Bud, I always set the timing right on TDC, and put the rotor right on #1 as it is coming up to fire off. You can adjust the timing later after the engine has already had it's break-in and is warmed up. I have never had an overheating or detonation problem when doing it this way.

A couple of tips...

double check your battery, full 12 volts

check your cables - nice and tight, carrying the juice

What ignition set up are you using? If using the old points and condenser, you could turn on your ignition and manually advance your crankshaft to see a spark at your points. Some guys like to do something like that before starting it up and will actually pull a spark plug and watch it arc. Just about the same idea although as you know, the spark from the points happens a whole lot more frequently than just what happens at the end of a plug wire.

double check your fuel supply. Clean? good pressure? fresh fuel in the tank? I would suggest filling the carburetor fuel bowl either manually or with an electric pump before you turn the engine over. It saves a lot of cranking.

I have never had to put oil on the rocker arms or down in the push rod holes, and of course you have already verified oil delivery to the top end right? So you are ok there. More often than not if there are any oiling problems they are going to show up at your camshaft/lifters first. They seem to be the most sensitive.



Take heart my friend... this is almost like giving birth to a baby. Thankfully, it is the closest a man will ever come to that!

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

If this is a Fresh Build, remember to use a Zink start up additive and follow the break in instructions, usually 2500 until it gets hot then let it cool off and do it again. This breaks the cam in correctly.

312T85Bird

What?

To check for spark, remove your cap and unplug the high tension lead from the cap and hold the end of the lead close to a ground. With the ignition on, make sure your points are in a closed position then carefully open them with a small screwdriver. each time you open then you should get a spark. You can also rotate the distributor to open and close the points instead of using a screwdriver.

For initially setting timing I rotate the engine to the exact point I want it to fire (example 6 degrees BTDC) then connect a test light on the distributor terminal of the coil and ground the other end. Leaving the hold down clamp loose, get the distributor in position so that the points are closed just before the rotor is coming up to number 1 on the cap. Rotate the distributor opposite direction to direction of rotation and the moment the test light comes on is the point at which it will fire. The light will come on because the points have opened and the power will then go to ground through the test light. I find this method very accurate and usually spot on. If you think you turned the distributor too far then just rotate it back slightly and try again.

Well, the deed is done! She fired right up and ran smoothly at about 2500 rpms for 20 mins or so. I noted a few small oil leaks that I am going to have to chase down. Oil pressure was 55 psi and the temp held steady at 180. Dieseled a little when I shut it down. I let it cool for about an hour, then did it again for another 20 mins. Then I slowed to idle, hooked up the vacuum to the distributor and timed it at 3 degrees. It advances to about 15 degrees when throttled up. All in all, I am pleased and relieved with how the morning went. My son took some videos but he has to take them off his iphone and send them to me. ll try to post them if I can figure out how to do it. I love the sound of a y-block at idle with a mild cam. Thanks to everyone who gave me suggestions. They were a great help and much appreciated. Time for a beer!

Bud

When Injustice Becomes Law, Resistance Becomes Duty

You might want to try 8 to 10 degrees initial advance. YBlocks seem to like it.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Bud: If you shut the engine down, while it was at 2500 rpm,(?) that would cause it to diesel..not a good idea.

Paul