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lyonroad
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 10 Years Ago
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CK (5/6/2014)
I believe the spacers are for pressing the bushes in, as I used them for earlier this year.
I'm intrigued by this. Did you press the bushings in with the arms in the car. I never thought of using the sleeve for this. I did mine out of the car using a piece of exhaust tubing and spacers like this.
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
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MoonShadow
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Group: Forum Members
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That clever! More than one way to skin a cat! Chuck
Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
 
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
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MarkMontereyBay
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
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I found this photo on Google images. Looks like I might be missing some parts? Also, the sleeve, shown in my original photos, that is between the front control arm and the front crossmember on one side is about half as long as the other. What is up with that?
57 Black Tbird 312/auto
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lyonroad
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Group: Forum Members
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MarkMontereyBay (5/7/2014)
Also, the sleeve, shown in my original photos, that is between the front control arm and the front crossmember on one side is about half as long as the other. What is up with that? Mark, what appears to be a half sized sleeve in your upper photo is actually the back half of the bushing. The sleeve (as shown in your second photo) goes over that bushing.
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
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MarkMontereyBay
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Group: Forum Members
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After getting a better view under the car here is what I found. First, both bushing shafts have lock washers behind the nut, just doesn't show well in the photos I took. Second, the drivers side without the sleeve has two 1/8th inch washers with a flat side acting as shims, the other side has no shims. There are no shims on the rear lower control arms on the second crossmember mounts. I think I can get the extra degree of caster on the drivers side which is showing 0 degree caster now by removing the two washers(shims) and rechecking the alignment. Here is a better photo. You can see two washers, one with the flat side showing, between the crossmember boss and some bushing rubber that has pushed out.
57 Black Tbird 312/auto
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lyonroad
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Group: Forum Members
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Mark let us know what you find. When I loosely assembled mine I had to insert shims to fill in the gaps. Maybe, rather than removing shims you may have to relocate them to keep everything solid. I modified some body shims so I can pull them out and/or move them around without disassembling everything. I couldn't find shims with a large enough slot for the control arm shafts.
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
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MarkMontereyBay
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
Posts: 733,
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My plan is to "slide" front bushing shaft back and take out the shims, unfortunately they aren't slotted, and loosening the rear bushing shaft then tightening the front. Depending on the amount of space in the rear bushing to the frame boss, I will make some sort of slotted shim to fit. Not an easy thing to do, getting front shaft out and back in without taking the coil spring out but have done it with a floor jack and a come-along if it gets stubborn to line it up. DId this back in the day on FSeries twin I beam radius rod bushings.
57 Black Tbird 312/auto
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lyonroad
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Group: Forum Members
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MarkMontereyBay (5/8/2014)
My plan is to "slide" front bushing shaft back and take out the shims, unfortunately they aren't slotted, and loosening the rear bushing shaft then tightening the front. Depending on the amount of space in the rear bushing to the frame boss, I will make some sort of slotted shim to fit. Not an easy thing to do, getting front shaft out and back in without taking the coil spring out but have done it with a floor jack and a come-along if it gets stubborn to line it up. DId this back in the day on FSeries twin I beam radius rod bushings.
Mark, as I said I enlarged the slot in some 1'8" thick horseshoe shaped shims to work on the control arm shafts. Good to know it can be done with the springs in place. I also know about the Fseries twin I beams. I pulled a pair out of an F250 to replace the springs and kingpins. It was no easy task. The thought of my home made spring compressor still gives me night sweats!
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
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MarkMontereyBay
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
Posts: 733,
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I was able to get the front arm bushing shaft out easy enough just using a floor jack and a pry bar to line things up. I removed the two shims and tightened it up. Then with the retainer nut on the rear bushing shaft backed off, I pried the A-arm forward. There was enough room for the two 1/8" shims to fit so I cut slots in the ones I took out of the front and used them. I went around and tightened all the bushing retaining nuts just because. The road test was good and it is much more stable, less like steering a shopping cart. Still tracks straight and doesn't have a pull to one side or the other. I set the alignment stuff up and now I have:
Passenger Driver Camber +1/2 degree +1 degreeCaster + 1 degree +1 1/4 degrees Rechecking the toe-in, it is closer to straight ahead maybe a 1/16th toed in which is fine. So I centered the steering wheel and it drives well. I did check the toe-in for bump steer by lifting the front with a jack up to 3 inches. I have a bout 3/4" toe in at 3 inches. Too much and I notice a quick twitch side to side at speed on a big bump on the rebound when the car lifts. Not real bad but I need to look at some bump steer tie rod kits. So then I take it out for nice drive along the beach in the sun and when I get back, I put it in park, shut it off and start to get out of the car. No park, starts rolling slowly backward. My first thought was the detent ball and spring in the Fordo. If anybody has gone through the torture of installing that ball and spring upside down under the car, you should be awarded the Medal of Yblock Honor. But, I can feel the detents as normal so I think that part is ok. Need to pull the trans pan and see what came loose.
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lyonroad
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Group: Forum Members
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Mark, no help from me with the Fordo but it never ends does it?
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia
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