Well your doing better than I am.  So far, I can get a perfect alignment with the C6AE double dampner with the single pulleys on the alternator (gm one wire) and the stock water pump single pulley. Its trying to drive a second belt off the dampner to a donar double water pump and donar double alternator that Im having issues with.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Darrell:My WP is on a car. It has the 5/8 shaft. On the truck WP's: I don't know whether the truck pump shaft snout is longer or shorter than a car's shaft snout so cannot give you good advice whether you need a deeper or shallower WP pulley.
Once I had to press the hub deeper on a new WP to get correct alignment of all pulleys. This new pump's hub was not pressed on far enough.Stuey: what pulleys won't line up?

I did see somewhere that adjusting the pully mount on the water pump shaft was an option. Sounds a bit tricky to me. If you go to far then you have to figure out how to get it back. My skills are limited to getting it closer to the block but not the other way. Think of the poor guy who buys a replacement water pump and goes by the part number. May drive a man to drinkin.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Marvhits not that the pulleys will not line up, its more  how do you know when they are aligned? is it just by vernia eyeballs or is there a special tool eg a laser device? I've tried a straight edge in the bottom of the "v" but you can convince yourself either way. a straight edge across the front of the pulleys kind of works but you have to make allowances for the differences in pulley design.how accurate does it have to be? I think i'm within a 1/16th.Outlaw56the pulley mount is a press fit on the shaft and can be adjusted, in the 56 truck book it gives measurements for various applications. a three legged puller can be used to move the mount forward. to move the mount  towards the pump  body you need a press and to support the end of the shaft.I had a look at a couple of old truck pumps with the 3/4 shaft and the 4 mounting bolts seem to be on the same pcd as the car version so I would have thought just drilling out a car pulley would work on a truck pump.but then I am new to all this and lack experience I rely on you guys for that.

stuey 

If your relying on me, your in big trouble. There must be a standard when the pulleys are sold with the hub assembled.  I have never had to adjust one, they always just bolted on and I never had any issues with belts. I think Im going to continue looking for a ford water pump pulley that will work without moving the mounting hub. If I cant do it that way, then I will revert back to single pulley alternator, single pulley water pump, and leave the second groove on the dampner open for power steering (if I ever do that modification). If the stock single groove dampner and the double groove dampner are the same dimensions, I at least have a single belt thats properly aligned. When I compare single groove dampners to double groove dampners (the ones I have collected), they all seem to be the same belt groove pattern exept for the added belt groove on the doubles (fan side of the dampner).

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Still waiting on the 5/8" 62 F-100 water pump to arrive. It was $106 brand new no core. Pretty spendy. The guy had it delivered from another store but no charge for delivery so only reason we are looking at the 5/8" shaft is to compare next to 3/4" shaft and see if pulley offset is the same on both pumps.

So meanwhile, I drilled out my water pump pulley. Its a perfect fit with a 3/16" spacer between the shaft hub and mounting surface of the pulley. A carpenter square lines up perfectly across the face of the dampner and across the face of the water pump pulley. The alternator pulley needs a 1/8" pulley, but there is another issue. I have a John Mummert generator/alternator conversion bracket. I have a reconditioned alternator. In the instructions for Johns mount, it says you may need to shim the alternator if the rebuild housing was worn. I assume mine has some wear on it. When I put tension on the belt, it pulls the face of the alternator pulley out of square almost 1/8" inch. I dont see where to shim it to square up the alternator in the bracket. Every other alternator I have ever removed or installed has had similar "play". The difference is on those, I never checked them with a square to see if tightening the belts tweaked the alternator.

There is a tiny bit of clearance where the mounting bolt connects the alternator to the bracket and there is a tiny bit of clearance between the witdh of the mounting surface to the bracket. I dont see any more clearance here than any other project I have ever worked on. I never had to force any alternator into its bracket and I never had to pound any mounting bolts into the holes that line up the alternator ith the bracket.

I either have to figure out how to shim an alternator or be assured this is not uncommon and will not lead to any belt alignment issues down thee road. Any suggestions or thoughts on this?

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

You can make spacers to fit between the alternater bracket and engine block / timing cover.  Make sure the bolts will still be long enough so you don't strip the threads.



Lawrenceville, GA

I will look into that option Charlie, how the heck did I get italic print going?

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

Hi Darrell, if you look above where you are writing, from left there is a capital B, a capital I, a capital U underlined , and an S with a strike through.


South Australia

Well I'll be dipped. I see the boxes above, but they are all blank blue except for Font and Size. They are both white with down arrows on them for different choices. When I click on the blue squares, the offer different options. Have not found a capitol I yet, but will spend some time there. Meanwhile, regarding my previous part about the alternator being a little loose in the bracket. Charlie suggested shimming the bracket. Charlie, the "wobble" is the alternator inside the bracket. The bracket is too tight to get a shim in anywhere, but the brakcet wabbles enough on the bolt that it moves the face of the pulley off square almost 1/8". I dont think shimming the bracket out will work if the result is still the alternator wobbling in the bracket. John machines these brackets to the size of alternators when they are new, so any wear in the housing or bolt hole mount on a rebuilt bracket is going to translate to a wobble on the mount. I dont see anywhere to "shim" it. Only thing I see is to bore it out and sleeve it, or confirm that a little "wobble" of the alternator in the bracket is normal.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's