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Engine build for my Dinnerhill Y block (some questions)

Posted By jimcar-9 11 Years Ago
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jimcar-9
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Hi guys

I need a bit of advice.

I am thinking of building an engine that goes like this:

Stock ECZ-C 272 truck block .040 over, will make it a 282
Mummert forge 10 cc pistons (if his supplier has an enough small forging) will make the max static CR to about 8.5 to 9.0
Stock crank, 
ECZ-G heads stock maybe a little ported
1.54 ratio rockers.
True roller
and mummerts cam, 265ADV, 224 at .050, 0.436 lift, 110 sep
New oil pump
ARP bults all the way thru

BUT now to the question

Am I stupid to reuse the EBU rods???? or should I ad $329 for a set of mummert I beam rods??

It will go in a F100 and be a daily driver thing that occationally wants to repaint the asphalt black....... No strip or that kind of things.

I just want a y block with good grunt .......... Or would I need some beefier rods despite the mild cam???

Thanks in advance



Best regards Jimmy Carlsson, Fagersta (Sweden) Ford F100 1956, 272 , 3 manual with OD
Follow my restoration on http://dinnerhillspeedshop.blogspot.se/
charliemccraney
Posted 11 Years Ago
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You should be fine with the EBU rods.



Lawrenceville, GA
slick56
Posted 11 Years Ago
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With the quote i got for supply and fit new wrist pins bushes, having the big ends closed and honed,
plus new ARP rod bolts, the Mummert rods ended up being around the same price.



South Australia




jimcar-9
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slick56 (6/27/2014)
With the quote i got for supply and fit new wrist pins bushes, having the big ends closed and honed,
plus new ARP rod bolts, the Mummert rods ended up being around the same price.




You have a point there.....

Are they delivered with bushing and arp bolts? From mummert.

Does the bushing have the correct size or are they need of reeming?

I only need to replace the bushings on my EBU but thats $225 over here in Sweden. With the cost of arp bolts and bushings I am up in atleast the cost of New I beam rods...
.

Best regards Jimmy Carlsson, Fagersta (Sweden) Ford F100 1956, 272 , 3 manual with OD
Follow my restoration on http://dinnerhillspeedshop.blogspot.se/
slick56
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Rods from Mummert are bolt in, ready to go,
He also does a kit if you are going with high comp pistons,

PART # FP-IBR-KIT        FORGED 10cc DOME PISTONS, PINS, MOLY RINGS, 5140 I-BEAM RODS
US$849.00





South Australia




jimcar-9
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Hmm

I think I`am going to have a talk with john about those

Best regards Jimmy Carlsson, Fagersta (Sweden) Ford F100 1956, 272 , 3 manual with OD
Follow my restoration on http://dinnerhillspeedshop.blogspot.se/
jimcar-9
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Ok guys

I have talked with John regarding some forged 10 cc dome 272 0.040 over pistons and his subsupplier could make them for me. I am also going for the new I-beam rods as its the same money has having my own EBU once restored....

But now to the question.... I am aming for a good street daily driver with some little extra than stock, I have found me a set of earlie ECZ-G heads (not posted)
I am aming for 8.5 to 9.0 cr, but what cam should I choose?? I have been searching the www and doing som litterature study on how the cam specs work and all in all ........ I need your input guys on what cam to choose.

John recomended this the Y-265-S
PART #RPM rangeIdle qualityADV DurationDuration .050"Valve LiftSeparationSpringsTransmissionLash
Y-246-OEMIdle-4000STOCK246192.385113VS65ANY.019
Y-260-I1800-5000Good260214.420108VS95Auto Okay.016
Y-265-S1800-5500Good265224.436110VS95Auto okay.018
Y-270-S2000-5800slight lope272224.440108VS95Auto okay.018

And a friend of mine Hakan Karlstrom believed the Isky 301333 would be appropriate.....
301333 RPM-300 2500-5500 .448 .020 270° 228° 112


So please help me out on this are they pretty much the same or whats the difference???

Thanks in advance




Best regards Jimmy Carlsson, Fagersta (Sweden) Ford F100 1956, 272 , 3 manual with OD
Follow my restoration on http://dinnerhillspeedshop.blogspot.se/
charliemccraney
Posted 11 Years Ago
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I think any other than the OEM is within your parameters.  They will all be totally streetable.  You can pretty well go by the way they are described.

A "lope" means that it will sound more like a dragster.  The Isky will probably have that characteristic.

Because of the RPM range, the 260 and 265 will probably be the most direct replacement because you can probably get by without also changing the rear gear.

I suspect that the 270 and Isky will require a rear gear change to make up for the loss in low end since they are higher performance cams.



Lawrenceville, GA
pintoplumber
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Jimmy, I believe I have the same transmission as you. The only time I see 5000 rpm's is at the track. Just driving around you will probably only see 3500 rpm's. I have an Isky E-4. I like the way it feels when I step on it. I also have a 4.27 rear. You're not going to win stoplight drags because of slow shifting. But you'll give them a race in 1st and 2nd.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3047f5ac-add1-4e79-a3ed-14ea.jpg  Dennis in Lititz PA


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