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everything seems good now

Posted By Kennykiwi 11 Years Ago
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Kennykiwi
Posted 11 Years Ago
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I hope I'm not going to bore anyone, but I seem to have fixed my stalling problem which I thought must have been carb or vacuum related, however, it turns out that I was using the wrong ignition coil, I checked with the supplier of my new electronic distributor and was told I should use a Bosch HEC716 coil with no ballast resistor.
Timing is about 14 deg BTDC, but reading some other posts, I may see what the curve is like up through the revs.
One thing I did observe that worries me is the torque converter does not appear to be centred, I suppose I'll have to reposition it, I would have thought that it should only line up in one position, you can see what I mean in the video below.
Anyway, Now my motor runs without any issues as far as I can tell. See the two youtube links below to see it running with the wrong coil and then with the right coil.
Daniel Jessup
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Ken - thanks for posting those videos. You can hear the difference for sure. Question for you... I don't think I have ever seen that distributor and coil setup. Can you give some more information on that and maybe your source for those parts? Are they only available in New Zealand? that coil looked as if its mount was specifically made for y block intake manifold.


Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


slick56
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Kennykiwi (7/11/2014)

Timing is about 14 deg BTDC, but reading some other posts, I may see what the curve is like up through the revs.



Ken, i think 14* may be too far advanced for a standard cam, you should have no more than 36-38*
total advance (vac advance plugged), or you may hole pistons. 

I don't know how you can cap total advance on an electronic dizzy?



South Australia




Daniel Jessup
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slick56 (7/12/2014)
Kennykiwi (7/11/2014)

Timing is about 14 deg BTDC, but reading some other posts, I may see what the curve is like up through the revs.


I don't know how you can cap total advance on an electronic dizzy?

When I looked at the video it seemed as if the distributor did have a vacuum pot on it that was connected, but I am unsure of the interior of the dizzy and what kind of advance is used. I assumed it was mechanical. Has anyone else ever seen this kind of distributor? what brand is it?



Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Kennykiwi
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Hi Daniel, The distributor is one listed for a 289/302windsor, It’s made in China I don’t know the brand as there is nothing writtenor stamped on it, although I seem to remember the name Pro-comp being used bythe supplier. It actually has a two piece shaft, however when I looked at thesame brand the other day they now come only with a one piece shaft. Price was$100 but the coil cost me $120. I wanted to stay with points but all of thedistributors I have are seized solid. So I decided to experiment with this.

I got the idea from Aussie Bill when reading one of hisposts about 4 years ago. The mounting dimensions are the same as the Y block,but the shaft is too short and the gear is the wrong size, so I lengthened theshaft and used my original drive gear. You just have to make sure the new extensionis centred. The coil mount came with the coil but I did have to chop the corneroff to make it a nice fit.

Slick, being an ammature I appreciate all the advice I canget, I certainly don't want a hole in my piston, so I’ll back off the advance a bit, I set it to that based on what I hadread elsewhere, and at idle it ran quite smooth at 14BTDC, should I let it runa little rougher?? It is the 57 cam if that means anything.

 

Ken

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Kennykiwi (7/13/2014)

Hi Daniel, The distributor is one listed for a 289/302windsor, It’s made in China I don’t know the brand as there is nothing writtenor stamped on it, although I seem to remember the name Pro-comp being used bythe supplier. It actually has a two piece shaft, however when I looked at thesame brand the other day they now come only with a one piece shaft. Price was$100 but the coil cost me $120. I wanted to stay with points but all of thedistributors I have are seized solid. So I decided to experiment with this.

I got the idea from Aussie Bill when reading one of hisposts about 4 years ago. The mounting dimensions are the same as the Y block,but the shaft is too short and the gear is the wrong size, so I lengthened theshaft and used my original drive gear. You just have to make sure the new extensionis centred. The coil mount came with the coil but I did have to chop the corneroff to make it a nice fit.

Slick, being an ammature I appreciate all the advice I canget, I certainly don't want a hole in my piston, so I’ll back off the advance a bit, I set it to that based on what I hadread elsewhere, and at idle it ran quite smooth at 14BTDC, should I let it runa little rougher?? It is the 57 cam if that means anything.

 

Ken

Kenny, interesting to see you did  it! Unfortunatley pro comp has allways suffered bad press due to good looking parts, cheap but unreliable in a lot of cases. The one thing i have read in the early days was repalcing the ignition module with a Bosch unit and they are reliable, so keep that in mind. best regards bill.





  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Kennykiwi
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Thanks Bill, I actually bought a spare one just in case, but I will keep the Bosch module in mind. The engine is not going into the car for about another six months so I'll have time to sort through any issues hopefully by then.

Ken.


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