Previously posted about distributor help but now need additional thoughts on the engine vibration. Car has a vibration in neutral with clutch in or out, and also when driving. Seems to come in at 2000 rpm and up. Seems to be getting worse. Was told that crank thrust bearing may be worn as end play is slightly more than is recommended. Never vibrated with original 3 speed, now has T-5. Also, same time I switched trans, I also put a blue thunder intake and edelbrock 600cfm carb on the car. Can the thrust bearing be causing the vibration? Or is it something to do with the carb set up? Already changed the balancer to rule that out. Car runs great up to around 2000 rpm. Engine does not have a miss (already went through the plugs, wires, distributor, and coil). Anything I am missing? Thanks!

You would have had to put in a longer tailshaft with the T5, have you had it balanced?

South Australia

If it vibrates in Neutral, while stopped, it's not the driveshaft. You may need to pull the trans and check for a bent input shaft, then get the clutch and flywheel balanced as an assembly.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I lack experience on things like this but, how about set hand brake make the car safe then set engine rpm to 2000 so vibration is present and listen around engine with a stethoscope (big screw driver with nicely rounded handle that fits your lughole )  may be water pump, alternator,  oil pumpfeel free to shoot me down its how I learnstuey

it is not the crank thrust bearing ,tho if the trans input(t5) is longer than 3spd and alowing constant thrust  you will ruen the thrust and crank.. i would move the trans back. remove drive shaft then loosen trans bolts slid in  washers between trans case and bell snug the trans up run up engine. my guess is t5 input is to long pushing the crank forwerd. then go with early sugestion and get clutch and flywheel balenced.  when removeing clutch make sure the pressure plate is in full contact with the fly wheel(posibly 1 or more bolts to long. has to be something to do with t5 conversion and the clutch ass. good luck

I think meteor may have a point. At least some T-5 /adaptor combo's needed to shorten the imput shaft. I did one about 10 years ago. If the adaptor is thick enough to clear the imput/crank, the clutch disc rides right at the front end of the splines. We had the engine out and hand fit the trans on the bench. It clearly bottomed. We taped off the input shaft to keep debris out of the front bearing, and carefully trimmed the shaft with a small cut off wheel. One guy held the wheel, and the other turned the trans over from the driveshaft end. We checked the clearance with clay. Been running fine or 10 years.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Meteor's and miker's point is covered specifically in Rob Bolzon's article on T5 conversion in the November-Dec 2012 issue of Y-block magazine.  Rob did note that with the input shaft rubbing on the end of the crank that he had trouble getting the car into gear. Mike M Have you noticed any shifting issues with your T5?


Mark

1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
Delta, British Columbia

I'm with Miker on this one, and you may have to install a new pilot bearing as the one in it now is probably shot from too much pressure against it and can cause a vibration.

-Gary Burnette-

The adapter is a John Mummert adapter but I never checked the input shaft length. I'll check that next. Never had any trouble getting the car in gear and it shifts cleanly. Thanks.

Tonight I pulled the trans back away from the bel housing about 1/8 inch to make sure the input shaft was nor hitting the crank. Still vibrates. Flywheel and clutch assy. were taken out and balanced as well. I am down to either the input shaft on the trans or something entirely different from the trans. The other change we made as the blue thunder low rise intake and Edelbrock 600cfm carb - Maybe something with the carb tuning causing a vibration? Still searching.