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CK
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 9 Years Ago
Posts: 152,
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What about cutting a key way on the other side of the crank?
Then remark the crank gear with the according tooth to time.
I also agree with Charlie, as the balancer will press and hold the gear against the shoulder.
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NoShortcuts
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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2721955meteor (8/15/2014)
why risk all the resulting damage when this venture will fail,the reason the dampner is pressed on is it excepts the harmonic vibes, so the crank wont break,along with driveing the acesoryes.the timeing gear and chain requier lots of power,and vibrations as a resultof opening and closing of vave train. interesting coments,but put the crank up on the shop wall, or interduce it to the scrap dealer
Cliff, you're right! I can't imagine the calamity that took place that generated the force to displace the timing gear woodruff key in the snout of that crank. There's no real way to tell the underlying condition of the metal in that cast crank.
I've got a 312 crank kicking around that I THOUGHT about trying to have repaired. It has one throw that is badly beaten up AND blue from being run. I'd guess that the engine continued to be operated after the rod started knocking. Being an iron casting, welding is a gamble even with the proper preheat.
Some things are best relegated to being 'conversation pieces, only'... 
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York
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Y block Billy
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 7 Years Ago
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I read somewhere that if you go around the area with a prick punch it raises the surface to do similar as knurling and I have done it before with success and also used lock tight with the install. However, your crank being welded on is another story to take into consideration. A loose cam gear will make it sound like you have a knock in your engine thats hard to diagnose, had a 4 cylinder boat motor that had that delema once.
 55 Vicky & customline 58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100 59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?
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Barry L
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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Thanks everyone for the input and ideas, but I've decided against trying to fix this iffy repair. I know I would never really trust it and should it fail, there would be too much carnage elsewhere. Coming soon...a new wall ornament. I can use it to explain to guys what to look for when trying to distinguish 292 from 312 cranks. It'll go next to the rod and piston labelled " it was runnin' when we parked it"
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2721955meteor
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 927,
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why risk all the resulting damage when this venture will fail,the reason the dampner is pressed on is it excepts the harmonic vibes, so the crank wont break,along with driveing the acesoryes.the timeing gear and chain requier lots of power,and vibrations as a resultof opening and closing of vave train. interesting coments,but put the crank up on the shop wall, or interduce it to the scrap dealer
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charliemccraney
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Group: Moderators
Last Active: Yesterday
Posts: 6.1K,
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I think Jerry Christensen wrote in an article in Y block Magazine that he machines his dampers so they're not real loose but slip on by hand. Does anyone else remember that?
Further, aren't the damper, slinger, and timing gear longer than the crank snout? Once that bolt is tightened, it is all clamped in place and isn't going anywhere.
Lawrenceville, GA
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NoShortcuts
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 1.4K,
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More thoughts on knurling the snout of the crank to adjust the fit of the timing gear and damper...
Because of the keyway for the timing gear, that area of the crank snout might best be done with perhaps three separate knurl bands... - Each band would start and stop on either side of the keyway opening... the operation would be done with the spindle turned by hand, not with the lathe power on... The crank would be rotated first in one direction and then in the other while the knurling tool is pressing against the snout surface. - After going first in one direction to the keyway opening and then back to the other side of the keyway opening, the knurling tool pressure against the surface would be increased by turning the cross-slide hand feed wheel. - With the small amount of material that needs to be displaced (raised) to accomplish the desired 'fit', I would expect that two depth adjustments of the knurling wheels against the crank snout surface for each individual band would suffice. ___________________________ For the area where the front damper rests when installed, knurling done on either side of the keyway area may be all that is necessary. IF this is the case, the usual process of making a continuous knurl with the lathe spindle under power and the lathe carriage driven by automatic feed may suffice. IF the knurl needs to be in a limited area for the damper unit, and the keyway is part of that, the same procedure used for the timing gear can be employed. ___________________________ What I've described may sound difficult for someone not familiar with metal lathe operation or the knurling process. A machine shop (not necessarily an automotive machine shop) will execute this fit adjustment of the sprocket and damper easily. -They will not look at you like you've got two heads when you request the work.
Hope this helps. 
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York
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ian57tbird
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Group: Forum Members
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Loctite has some fantastic products that might be suitable.
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NoShortcuts
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
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Barry L (8/12/2014)
...The damper slides on with little effort. With the damper key installed the damper takes little effort to seat and can be pulled back off by hand. The crank gear with a key installed can still be wiggled back and forth ever so slightly. The crank snout measures 1.249 at the front and decreases to 1.2483 as best I can measure.
Per John Mummert's web site @ http://www.ford-y-block.com/crankshaftid.htm, the crank snout is supposed to be 1.250! You're not 'off ' very much even if your mic calibration isn't spot on.
I'd pursue the notion of knurling the slightly undersize surface. Pushing a minimal 'X' pattern into the surface will grow the diameter AMAZINGLY well! With so little to be 'added' to the diameter, final fitting of the timing gear and damper may best be accomplished using just a long angle lathe file to smooth the knurled surface slightly afterwards and make the necessary 'fit' adjustment.
Let us know how you make out...
NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York
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NoShortcuts
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 1.4K,
Visits: 179.6K
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Back-in-the-day, late '60s... early '70s before they closed, Crankshaft Company in CA used to offer hard chroming of crankshafts...
Gosh. That was a while ago! 
NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York
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