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duffer
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 11 Years Ago
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Does anyone use Marvel Mystery oil in there engines? (In the gas or oil ) Is it good to use or a waste of money?
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Lou
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I've been using it for 50 years, not so much as an oil adtive the last 20 years but in my gas. When I store my car (s) for winter I run them and pour abot 2 oz down the carb just before I shut the car off, I also put about 2 oz in the gas along with "Sta-Bil" and dry gas.
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alanfreeman
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I have used it for years in all three of my Y Block cars. Each car is equipped with a Marvel Mystery 2 quart Inverse Oiler from the 1950's which introduces the Mystery Oil by vacuum into the intake manifold. I bought each of the oilers as NOS units. Alan S. Freeman
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duffer
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 11 Years Ago
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Supercharged,
That sounds really interesting. I would be curious to see what that looks like if you had time to post a picture. Or maybe send me and email or text of it. I'm guessing the MMO is good then. How much would you recommend to put in the gas tank per fill up? Bob Duffer |
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Riz
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Former military and have ended up storing cars for longer than I liked more frequently than I liked. Before any storage I remove the plugs and pour about a capful down each spark plug hole. Keeps rings lubricated and avoids a completely dry start. Could be snake oil, but have had more cars start right back up after 12-18 mo of storage. Also use it in gas every so often if not driving frequently.
Mike Rizzo
1963 F100 "Rudy"
Daniel Island, SC
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HT32BSX115
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Weeks Ago
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duffer (8/28/2014)
Does anyone use Marvel Mystery oil in there engines? (In the gas or oil ) Is it good to use or a waste of money?
Howdy, Looks like I am going to be the "nay-sayer" here...... But According to the NTSB MMO is simply mineral oil + Stoddard Solvent and (1%) lard. Can't really see what it would do to the fuel (other than add mineral oil, solvent and lard)
Adding mineral oil and solvent to any gasoline type fuel lowers octane and increases the oil content in the fuel which must be burned when running it. Lowering octane with 87 octane fuel and adding oil to the fuel could increase the chances for detonation.
The biggest problem with storing gasoline is the loss of the "higher end" hydrocarbons through evaporation ( which causes a reduction of vapor pressure, which will make any carbureted engine a little harder to start ) and formation of varnishes. STABIL can mitigate the formation of varnish but does nothing to prevent evaporation of the higher ends.
The only way you can prevent that evaporation is to store the fuel under pressure (higher than the vapor pressure of the fuel) Which might be why (besides EFI) newer cars don't have as much problems with "old" gasoline as older carb'd cars do (pressurized fuel tanks.......it's why you hear a "hiss" when you remove the cap!)
If you're worried about storing the car for a long time (and you're not leaving the car out in the weather) , just drain the tank for the duration and fill it up when you're ready to drive it again. (I am talking about more than 6-9 months or so) Every year around the and of AUG, I store my boat (44 gal tank) in a dry shop. I drain most of the fuel out and use it in the cars. Around May or June of the following year, I replace the fuel filter, fill it up and go boating. I don't use any snake oils at all. (the engine is a carbureted GM 454)
I know people have used MMO and have had no "problems". But I know FAR MORE people who have NOT used MMO and have had no problems.
Let me also add that I wouldn't put that stuff (MMO) in the oil or gasoline of ANY internal combustion engine that I have or operate!
Just saying!
Cheers,
Rick
1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!
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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox
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Bob's 55
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Rick, never heard them referred to a "Higher Ends" before. In the refining business (in the US) we refer to it as "Lighter Ends" (pentanes and hexanes and a trace of Butanes) but yes they do indeed evaporate.
I don't use MMO (except for a squirt occasionally in my air tools) but I do add Sea Foam to my fuel tank to absorb some of the moisture that is present in the wonderful fuel we get these days.
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HT32BSX115
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Hi Bob!
Rick, never heard them referred to a "Higher Ends" before. In the refining business (in the US) we refer to it as "Lighter Ends" (pentanes and hexanes and a trace of Butanes) but yes they do indeed evaporate.
ISO AND Normal too!
Yes I have heard them referred to as lighter ends too! (I worked in the oil fields around Bakersfield in the 70's) and we all know what was in "Drip", "Casinghead", "Condensate" etc huh?
I always hear about people using MMO in just about everything. Testimonial "evidence" at best. ("been using it for many years", "my Uncle says it's good", "my pet mechanic told me it helps", add your testimonial here:"XXXXX" !) None of these "additives" ever have peer reviewed proof offered..........It's all "testimonial".
Slick-50 comes to mind as does a plethora of other snake oils foisted on the unsuspecting public for many years and some, where there were lawsuits for making unsubstantiated claims. The Slick 50 settlement went into the millions. (click the link above)
Very few (if any) of the auto manufacturers will sanction oil or fuel additives for the most part and some will even void warranties.
When someone mentions using one of these snake oils......I sort of feel obligated to at least offer an alternative (like: millions of people DON'T use it and have NO "problems")
Motor oil is so good nowadays and the additive packages are so refined that you just don't need to add an additional can of "feel-good-secret-sauce" (maybe with the exception of flat-cam "zinc" like the cam grinders suggest )
But the fact that the other "additives" are still sold indicates that some people still feel they need "something!
I feel it too sometimes but I usually have a beer and I feel better and then get over it!
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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!
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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox
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DryLakesRacer
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I think HT32 is right. I used a cap in each tank if a HD 1200 Sportster for a year from new and the valves were really gummed up when I had occasion to remove the carb and intake and looked inside. I quit using it in the gasoline right then. I've since had other HD's and never had it happen again never using MMO. Could have been a air cooled thing but I think not. I needed to remove the heads to wire brush the valves.
I use MMO on a white cloth and wipe cylinder bores after honing. I wipe until the cloth stays red. Wipe the cylinder with dry cloth which leaves a slight film and assemble....good luck..
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
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charliemccraney
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I think just about every additive is a waste of money. I don't add anything to my oil or gas - and never had a problem.
Lawrenceville, GA
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