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Regarding the steam holes in the blocks and/or heads, see if these links to past threads help. As mentioned, the validity of adding holes where there are none is questionable. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost80678.aspx http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost47272.aspx http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost31956.aspx On performance builds, I block the holes in the block itself as many of the cylinder heads I’m using do not have the ‘steam’ holes. As far as pressurizing the rocker shafts, I go either way depending upon the application and/or the clearances between the rockers and the shafts. If rocker clearance is ‘like new’, then I do prefer to use the overflow tubes at least on the right side of the engine to provide additional oil to the timing set. If the rocker to shaft clearance is 0.004” or more, then pinching off the rocker overflow tubes or blocking them off altogether can supply additional oil to the rockers furthest from the oil supply entry point. For the aluminum roller tipped rockers, I always pressurize the shafts. Keep in mind that on most of my Y rebuilds, I do increase the oil flow capability to the top end of the engine by machining a new oil path behind the center cam bearing.
 Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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The so called steam holes are somewhat controversial.. But, about the cam bearings, be certain the holes are lined up properly. According to John Mummert, the factory cams after 1957 reverted to about 1955 specs, which are very mild. I agree with the suggestion to upgrade somewhat. For instance, Mummert sells one he call the Y 265s It is just slightly more potent than the 1957 cam & works well with auto tran, with a decent idle. Further his shop cuts the groove in all the cams he sells deeper to ensure better top end oiling. Besides you've spent money to rebore and so on. why skimp on the cam & lifters, which are in the core of the engine? Something to consider?..
Paul
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Ted may chime in on this but he usually doesn't like the drill the extra steam holes for they seem to not be necessary and may be the reason the factory didn't do it.
-Gary Burnette-
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My mistake John, you are right about the number of steam holes. I don't know what I was thinking but there are two holes per head and two holes per side block and that comes out to eight. I think I had a mental block of some kind and that happens more than I'd like. Ha!
-Gary Burnette-
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I want to keep it as stock as possible so I don't really want any "performance" upgrades. I do want it to run, not overheat, and get oil to the top end... If I put in the "steam holes" there are 8 holes to be drilled! 2 in each head and 2 on each side of the block, total of 8 holes.
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Since rebuilding I think an upgrade in the cam and new lifters would be a nice improvement. Concerning the steam hole on each side the total comes to two holes. Do not drill any more. As far as a cam goes stay somewhere in the 224 @ .050 with a running duration 268 to 270 range and you should be ok with a stock rebuild and automatic transmission. Their are other things that can be done and others on this site can elaborate with their ideas, here again it depends on how far you're want to go.
-Gary Burnette-
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1959 Edsel Ranger, 292 auto. The car was a barn find and had been sitting since 1970 - 70K miles. Engine was stuck so I am rebuilding it. Looks like the engine was all original. The block has been bored 030 over, the crank was turned 010 under. I'm using the original cam with new bearings and a new timing set. The valves and seats looked good so I have just cleaned and lapped them. The rockers shafts have been disassembled, cleaned and reassembled.
I'm getting close to assembly and I'm looking for input on these modifications.
I have the original 5752-113 heads and FEL-PRO blue fiber gaskets. The instruction sheet with the gaskets says to drill two holes on each side head and block (8 holes total) for better cooling. Looking for pros and cons (if any) to doing this.
Should I plug the drainage on the rocker shafts to pressurize the rocker oil flow?
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