I’ve found that the factory installed plugs have been put in there to stay.  If the engine has been rebuilt in the past with the plugs being removed and replaced, then the plugs do tend to come out easier.  While heat and wax works in some of the cases, I still have to drill out a majority of the plugs to remove them.

But here’s a tip. Before actually trying to remove the plug by breaking it loose in a CCW direction, I’ve found that trying to tighten it first tends to help when trying to loosen the plug.  The more difficult plugs simply involve drilling a hole into it and removing it with an extractor.  In the chassis is simply problematic whereas I work with most blocks out of the car.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Another method that might help, is to soak it in penetrating oil for a while. (I like Loyds Moovit.) Then use a light ball peen hammer & lightly & repeatedly tap it to set up some resonnence. Then you could follow that with one the previous suggestions..


Paul

Well, I know when I've been beat. I decided to avoid the headache and just T off of the oil pressure switch. Maybe I'll try something in the future off I'm feeling like a challenge. For now I'll just wait until I do a rebuild to take them out. I'm happy with having a working oil pressure gauge and switch. But I will definitely add these tips and tricks to my archive. Thanks everyone.

just do not hook the coper line direct to the engine, or you will get to the overhaul point sooner. 

If my memory is correct their are 3 oil passage plugs on each side. Should be one near the oil pump/filter area. Maybe a little heat and penetrating oil will get that one out.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

If you can get at clean it real good, mig weld a nut to it then turn it out with a wrench. The heat from welding the nut on will free it up and the nut will give you something to wrench it out with. I have used this trick on broken studs with great sucess.

If you could get a friend to stop by with a mig welder and weld a nut or stud onto the existing plug, its always worked for me. A good mig welder can spot that up in just a few moments. Just dont keep working on it until there is nothing left to weld to. Waiting for the rebuild and having the engine out is a good idea as well.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

I do have a friend locally with a welder. Maybe I'll take it down to him…or just buy a welder. We'll see. I have been meaning to learn.

Here's what I ended up doing in the meantime:

Here is the T coming from where the oil pressure switch was hooked up. I am using an old set of fittings. The engine had a rocker oiler kit installed when I bought the car, I removed it, but kept the fittings.


Here's the coil I added for vibration and a sheath of rubber hose to keep it from rubbing on the steering box:


And here it is entering the firewall:

Nice job. Having a working oil pressure gauge is a nice thing. 

Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec