Copper is not a good idea.  Refrigeration units use their own blend of copper and they are simply called, 'refrigeration copper'.  A much better choice would be to use; a brake hose where it flexes and brake line where it doesn't.  
There is a product called, CUNIFER brake line that looks like copper but that's where the similarity ends.  CU=copper, NI=nickel, FE=iron.  It comes in 3/16" and 1/4" through Amazon.com.  High-end European cars use Cunifer as original equipment.  3/16" is also used for the metric equiv. because you're going to flare the ends, anyway.

You can find brake hose with pipe threads or flare fittings.  Adapters are available everywhere.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Short of using expensive AN fittings and lines, I have no issues with 1/8" copper tubing being used for oil pressure lines.  Anything larger than this though can be problematic in regards to cracking or breaking where vibration might be encountered.  The addition of a coil in the line is a OEM recommended solution for potential vibration or movement issues.  I do frown on the use of the plastic line that comes with most gauge kits as it is easily melted or become brittle with age.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

ok for a while but crude and the copper will break,every time the engine changes rpm it moves every time it changes gears it moves,coil or no coil it will brake,good luck 

Nice job. Having a working oil pressure gauge is a nice thing. 

Túlio Lazzaroni "FORD", Florianópolis SC Brasil.

'74 Ford Galaxie 500 292 V8

'82 Ford Galaxie Landau 302 V8

'98 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6

'01 Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec

Here's what I ended up doing in the meantime:

Here is the T coming from where the oil pressure switch was hooked up. I am using an old set of fittings. The engine had a rocker oiler kit installed when I bought the car, I removed it, but kept the fittings.


Here's the coil I added for vibration and a sheath of rubber hose to keep it from rubbing on the steering box:


And here it is entering the firewall:

I do have a friend locally with a welder. Maybe I'll take it down to him…or just buy a welder. We'll see. I have been meaning to learn.

If you could get a friend to stop by with a mig welder and weld a nut or stud onto the existing plug, its always worked for me. A good mig welder can spot that up in just a few moments. Just dont keep working on it until there is nothing left to weld to. Waiting for the rebuild and having the engine out is a good idea as well.

Darrell Howard Whitefish, MT Outlaw 56 Ford F-100's

If you can get at clean it real good, mig weld a nut to it then turn it out with a wrench. The heat from welding the nut on will free it up and the nut will give you something to wrench it out with. I have used this trick on broken studs with great sucess.

If my memory is correct their are 3 oil passage plugs on each side. Should be one near the oil pump/filter area. Maybe a little heat and penetrating oil will get that one out.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

just do not hook the coper line direct to the engine, or you will get to the overhaul point sooner.