The cam is a ISKY RPM 300 and was in the car when I purchased it. I sent it out to have the lobes checked instead of replacing it because I like you, loved the way it preformed and sounded. It's probably not the best for racing but it's a great street engine cam. I maybe could find the specs for it if I went through all my paper work. The engine is in a factory E Bird. The engine and the carbs were powder coated. Coating the carbs may be some of my idle problem but I'm power coating the 1434's that I'm rebuilding being a little more precise. My concern with PC the engine was that it may run hotter but it seems just the opposite. This may be because the block casting is porous and the coating is smooth keeping it cleaner and letting more air move over the block. My engine idle is high and the oil pressure may go on the south side of 20 if the idle is near 500. I may try 10W50. I hope I'm not getting too far off this post topic. Philip

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with 20 psi oil pressure at 500 rpms.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

In rebuilding a pair of 9510 AB - List 1434 carbs the kits didn't have the right needle and seats. Number 110 seats and ball tip needles came out of the carbs. The seats in the rebuild kits were unmarked but seemed to be larger with the pointed needles. I do have 2 new needle and seat kits. One is # B6A-9564-A with the ball tip needle and #110 on the seat. The other is a pointed tip needle and # 97-S on the seat. The B6A kit  with the #110 seat is probably a little smaller than the 97-S seat kit. Will these kits work ok on the e setup?  My second question is for the best performance and IDLE, if I use this combination, which would be the best to use for the front carb or wouldn't it make any difference? This is a unison setup. Thanks for any input. Philip

I'm unable to answer your most recent question, Philip.

What follows is a source of quality carburetor component parts.  The last I knew, there was no minimum order with this company, which is unusual with most suppliers.  The parts this company is producing are often what you'll find supplied in other retail vendors 'kits'.

https://buy.walkerproducts.com/carburetor/components/ford/ford-4bbl-4100-3-carburetor-components.html

Hope this may help you going forward. 


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Thanks for your last reply. The problem with the needle and seats that came in the rebuild kits were they were treaded and would not fit down in the bore. On the problem solving section of their web site they said the treaded seats would work, which they won't, or use the old seats with the new needles. I went on e-bay and found one seat and needle kit from Motorcraft,  B6A-9564-A. I just found the second kit and I now have a matched pair with the original seat numbers. The needles have the ball tips while the rebuild kits had the pointed neoprene tips. Its a silly question because I know either will work but wonder why they went from the ball to the neoprene? I can now proceed rebuilding these two carb and don't expect any more problems, but if I do I know the best place to get good answers. Thank you, Philip  

I've come across the 1434 & 1437 carbs with both the spring loaded and threaded needle seats.  The carb kits from Daytona Carb Parts come with both styles of seats but many other kits seem to come only with the threaded seats.  In those cases, I simply thread the fuel bowl body for the threaded seats.  This is especially helpful when one carb is spring loaded and the other is threaded.  This puts both seats being the same.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I recently installed my rebuilt carbs and started the engine. After priming the carbs with an electric fuel pump the engine turned over 3 times and started right up. the problem is the tack went up to 2200 RPM's and that's as low as I can get it to idle. When installing the carbs I synchronized and checked the linkage making sure the fast idle cam was not the problem. I had a small fuel leak under the needle seat plug and didn't use the springs because I tapped and threaded the seats. I tried adjusting the idle adjusting needles  which did nothing. With all the help I received from this site and a video I felt confident the rebuild went well. I used a smoke machine from snap on to check for vacuum leaks trying to get my previous carb setup down to 1000 RPM's and this set is worse. Check the link of the rebuilt 1434 carbs. I'm stumped and any ideas will be appreciated. Philip in Ohio   

If it will not idle lower than 2200, then it is getting air somewhere.  It simply won't idle that high, otherwise.  How well does a smoke machine work for areas which are difficult to see, like under the intake, or behind the carburetors?  I would check again using starting fluid, where you will notice a change in the way the engine runs if a leak is found.  If no leaks are found, maybe the primary or secondary throttle plates are opened farther than they should be for some reason.



Lawrenceville, GA

Hmmmm... As Charlie says, 2200 rpm is sky high.  You've got to have a BIG air leak somewhere to feed that engine speed.  Be careful in using that starter fluid!

I've used standard viscosity engine oil applied with a pump oil can around the base of carbs as a way to find where air is getting into the system.  IF the oil temporarily seals the leakage, the idle speed drops.  Check for other potential vacuum leaks to the engine including power brake connections to the intake manifold and the line to the double diaphragm fuel pump.  A faulty vacuum booster diaphragm on either of these components would show as a vacuum leak.  Potentially, you could have more than one vacuum leak source working together to give you this high an idle speed.   

Also check...
- all throttle plates fully closed (seated)... right?
- with the 'E' 'Bird set-up, you've got 1/8 inch aluminum spacers in a gasket sandwich under the carbs on the aluminum intake manifold... right?
- distributor vacuum line connected from the rear carburetor to the distributor advance chamber... right?
- distributor vacuum advance take-off on the front carb blocked off with a plug... right?
- No spark control valves on your 'E' carbs... right?  (Spark control valves on other Holley 4000 carbs have a diaphragm in them that can leak)
- Vacuum control secondary diaphragm units are gasket-ed to the carburetor aluminum bases... right?
- Neoprene hose connecting the take-off from the carb bases for the secondary vacuum signal balance tube... right?

OUCH!  Scratching my head for other ideas...


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Don't I recall a gasket for the vacuum secondary diaphragm housing where it mounts on the Holley 4000 carburetor base that can be incorrectly positioned because of it having an extra hole or it being a gasket that can be reversed for mounting, but will not work correctly if incorrectly positioned???

Still scratching my head on your LARGE vacuum leak!


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York