My 57 car had an Amp meter in an under dash mount when I got it. Later I was advised by a tech to increase the size of the wiring which he said was to light for an amp guage & was contributing to my having problems keeping the battery up, which I did. Quite some time after, I noticed the guage fluctuating badly one day. The guage was an Equis brand & long story short, I discouvered that it was starting to short out, due to the insulators on the back side of it, which had started to melt!.. I've replaced it with a Stewart Warner volt meter off the ignition switch, & the car also still has a Red light hooked up...  Most later autos with alternators, don't even have a guage & if they do it's a volt meter.  


Paul

Thanks for all the information.  Figure the voltmeter is the way to go and just purchased a SW on eBay.  It is colorful with red yellow green then red again for discharge, over charge, and normal.  Also has a calibration screw.

I'm glad someone also likes the idiot light. Since I try to keep my car stock appearing I also carry a digital volt meter that plugs into the cigar lighter in the glove compartment. I usually plug it in when driving at night...... Good Luck.....

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

That is exactly why I still prefer indicator lights (idiot lights) on charging systems. Throw a belt, light comes on. Simple.



I agree, fusible links are not the way to go. I used a 50a Maxi-fuse on the main feed wire.



"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Nice work Jimz. I never thought of wiring in the spare.

Any undersized wire is a "fusible link". The good ones have heavy, hi temp insulation, and won't support combustion. They need to be isolated, as Jinz shows, not inside a harness. I use them in open air, at point of failure. Hopefully, the fuses in the line go before you need them.

For wiring items in general, I've had good luck with waytek. Not cheap, but all the terminals, fuses, loom, etc. I've bought have been high quality.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Not crazy about fusible links either.  I've seen pictures of them going up in flames.  I'm am old fashioned type of guy - give me a fuse.  I used a mega fuse on the cars that I have rewired with an alternator.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I like Fusible Links also. Especially on the main feed wire to the dash.
Here are some notes on using them.
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/fusible-link.shtml
You can also put two fusible links in one ring terminal and have a spare already half wired up. Shrink wrap the end of the spare and it is ready to use. Once the problem that caused the link to blow is found.
Here is a terminal block I like to use. It separates the wires well. This one shows the spare links already in place.




Jim
Norfolk, VA

"MABLE"
1956 Thunderbird Green / Brown Interior (ZE-XG)

"MEAN GREEN"
1956 Mainline (FG-BE)

I'm more of a fan of voltmeters. Properly marked, they also show over voltage, and having had regulators fail and boil the battery, they let you see that coming.

That said, I've also had shunt type ammeters in marine use, on 90 amp alternators. Not the wimpy auto ones, but units 10" in diameter and 24" long, that make 90 amps all day and don't overheat. No way you run # 2 wire up to the control stations and back.

The other thing we forget in the high tech world is you can still buy fusible links. Smaller wire, non flammable insulation, designed to melt like a fuse. You need to carry spares, and a pair of pliers to crimp, but they save the harness. Find and clear the fault before you replace it. I use those at the alt/gen terminal, from the battery to the fuse panel, headlight feed, and on individual feeds. You can buy "mega circuit breakers" , but a fuse link always works, it's cheap, and it fits in the glove box. For me, it's a must have on an ammeter.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Volt meters came into use when more accessories were beginning to be used especially A/C. An AWG #10 is rated at 30 amps and can easily handle 40 amps for a time which is fine for our 50's cars but today's computer cars need more. As much as we hate them, the "idiot" light is our best friend especially when loosing a fan/generator belt. Good luck....

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

This is a problem where all you have is a needle, a line and nothing else.  If it is a marked gauge, then you can see what the output is as it should drop down to 12 volts rather quickly rather than the 13.5 to 14.5 that it should be running at.  At least that is my experience.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ