Jerry C always said about Y blocks  "torque of a locomotive rpm of a die grinder"... I just thought the Navy and Texas connection was humorous in my own off beat way   Frank being a Navy guy knew the BB designation as Battleship

Wow! A Y block powered battlewagon.................who knew!! 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Thanks everybody for the advice. I'll go with white grease on the topside of the gasket..  Aaaw  R.B., I don't think the crank was used in a Battleship....


Paul

Ted,  BB 35 is the Navy designation for the U.S. battleship TEXAS

Hard to say what the “BB 35” marking means.  Possibly a shop designation and/or employee number?  As far as bearings go, main bearings use to be available for at least 0.050” undersize.  Finding some of those now could prove to be a challenge as I see some of the 0.030” undersize mains for the 312 engines being no longer available from some of the suppliers.  Might be a good time to have another crankshaft that’s suitable for grinding for current available bearings awaiting off to the side.

As far as sealant for the oil pan, I’ll recommend that the pan rail is straight and non-deformed and use white grease on both sides of the oil pan gasket.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

the high tack is great,gasket to pan,but i would grease the gasket to block.,so if you have a tight squese it gives some forgiveness.also be sure the leak is from the pan,could be oil pump gasket,valley cover,bolt missing behind the intake on the head which goes into a push rod hole. good luck

The pan is off in my  57-312 car re oil leaks. #1 counterweight is marked; M .030, T .020 & BB 35, & dated 1966. (Block is a B9AE) There are some other markings further away but they are unreadible.  Presumably M is mains, T is throw or rod, but what does the BB 35 mean?  Also, the M .030 concerns me some as I've never seen Main Bearings for 312s, listed beyond 0.030. Does that mean the mains can't be turned again ? (except for a 272-292 conversion ?) Had the pan off about 3 years ago, but think the gasket was damaged or didn't seal on reinstall, so, need advice on getting it sealed, keeping in mind that install clearance is tight. I'm planning on puting the gasket on the pan with Permatex High tack 98 H as it's recommended as a locater sealent. Is that a good choice?   But, what about the top side of the gasket or crankcase side? Keeping in mind that the pan has to be slipped over the crossmember & clearance at the rods is tight. I suspect silicone based sealents may set up to fast. Recommendations appreciated..Thanks


Paul