No, I didn't use thread locker, but it might have been a good idea. Just went with the existing lock washers & as recommended, used Permatex One sealer on the threads of the two bolts that go into the crank seal holder. Those two bolts are not blind holes & are open to the crankcase.  


Paul

I like what you did but I'll ask a question. Did you put anything on the threads to keep then from backing out? There is a thread locker that is not real "tough" that holds but easy to remove not like permanent. I use machine screw purple Loctite. In a pinch red RTV. Good Luck..

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Thanks Bill;  Actually, I was probably having a senior moment with that question. It dawned on me this A.M., that I've likely gone by 12- 15 lb allready, hence no reading up to that figure. The gasket isn't bulging out, so will leave it alone...    


Paul

No torgue in my opinion, what you did was right, common sense and feel should be right, as you dont want to be squeezing the life out of the gskt. Amazing how many " engine gurus" here have no idea of doing up bolts. not referring to yourself.


  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

The factory recommended torque for oil pan bolts is 12-15 Lbs. I just re installed the pan with a regular Fel Pro cork gasket. Snugged them up to what seemed reasonable with a 3/8" ratchet. I didn't "crank" on them. Decided to check it with my Torque wrench (a bending bar type) & found that it wouldn't even read what I'd done!. I realize it seems elementary, but how much torque is reasonable on a cork gasket without collapsing it completely?    


Paul