I have a 57 312 with Isky E4 cam in my 56 Victoria. Is the valve lash adjusting procedure in the 56 shop manual an acceptable method for adjusting the valves in this engine?  It describes rotating the engine so far and adjusting certain valves than rotating again and doing other certain valves. DaveV

SE Wis

While the service manual methodology for setting the valves can get the job done, it’s very easy for anyone that does not do this frequently to get it wrong.  Simply getting the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke is the first place this method goes wrong.  Assuming that part happens correctly, then keeping up with which valves are which while turning the crankshaft 180° and 270° to get the valves properly adjusted opens the door for all kinds of errors. 

Over time, several other methods have been developed which are much less error prone.  My own preference is to simply have the #1 or #6 cylinder at the end of the compression stroke and at TDC and set the valves on that particular cylinder.  The engine is then rotated in 90° increments following the firing order and the valves are set according to the firing order.  To make this more clear, here’s the link to a past thread that covers both this particular methodology as well as others.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic8614.aspx 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The way I do it is different.  I first get the engine hot then I remove the valve covers, remove the coil to dist cap sparkplug wire and then using a bumper I tap the engine over till Cylinder #1 intake valve starts to close.  I then take and set the lash on the exhaust valve as in this position with the intake valve closing the exhaust valve is on the heel of the cam.  Once that is done I tap the engine over till #1 exhaust valve starts to open.  When this happens this places the intake on the heel of the cam.  This technique allows you to go cylinder to cylinder fast and accurately.

I do have to do mine again, I did mine on Sunday and haven't drove he car and only ran it a little bit but I have a ticking and I want to double check it to make sure one of the lock nuts did not back off.  This is another thing you have to be careful with on these engines if you have lock nuts.  You have to make sure you get them tight enough to prevent them from backing off.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqG-Q_kVI3s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIB9m1Kp61ostuey

Thanks for the replies.  Ted, I like your method #3 as I already have the damper marked @ 90 degree intervals and the spark plugs are removed.  I already adjusted the valves by the 56 manual method, so now I'll do them this way and see if there is a difference.  Thanks again.  DaveV

SE Wis

I typically use the method described by Ted - its pretty fool proof. If you have the firing order, it works on every V8. 

The thing I have to add is that running the engine with the rocker covers off after running through the procedure, will quickly give you a "sound" indication of the adjustments. If one is ticking  - and it isn't obvious which - you can dampen each rocker in turn with a gloved hand and sort out which might use a bit more attention. 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona