Ok guys, I figured I would update everyone, so maybe anyone in a like boat, may have it a little easier than I did. 
Originally I ordered a Ignitor 3 and a Flamethrower 3 from Pertronix as well as a reman Cardone Dist.  Well, because the distributor was on a bearing race, the ignitor 3 will not work with that distributor.  I called Pertonix they confirmed so I sent the ignitor 3 back for a 2, but kept the flamethrower 3.  Here is the first mistake I made.  The Flamethrower 3 can only be used with the ignitor 3, "it ill not work right with the ignitor 2" was the exact quote from Pertronix tech line.  I threw in a MSD Blaster 2, and it helped a ton.  I was still getting some popping in the intake and the exhaust.  While I was jacking with the distributor I had my hand resting in the coil wires and when I rev'd the motor I got bit.  So then I knew I am also getting crossfire, from my Ebay coil wires. I swapped out the wires with the MSD wires and also installed a MSD distributor (I ordered prior to finding out about the coil), and this thing runs worlds better.  I still have a little air sucking in from the secondary carbs, but I have 4 new butterflies coming in tomorrow to swap out this weekend to get a better seal, then I think this thing will become my friend again. hahaha...

I can't say enough about this board and all you fellas that are on here day in and day out, I for one have learned a lot and would like to say thanks again for all the suggestions and support I was given.

Later fellas! 

Thanks Dan,

I will check out those bases and power valves.  I did order a new pump actuator and pump link from there as well. I do think the acc pump is a little weak on the primary.  I've seen that there are acc pumps with a .750 slot (the one I have) and one with a .625 slot that is supposed to give you a little better squirt.  I will try to hunt that down as well.

Thanks, Ryan

Mikers description of your problem is dead on. Stay focused on getting it to run on the center carb then go from there. Make sure you have a good squirt from the accelerator pump and the venturi nozzles are clean. Match the power valve to engine vacuum. It needs to be half of whatever manifold vacuum is. Once I put the new secondary throttle bases on mine it run fine for a bit then started idling too fast again. I sprayed carb cleaner around the carbs looking for a vacuum leak and found the throttle shaft was loose in the primary carb. Installed another base on it and it has been running great ever since. I was a bit surprised how much of a difference it made. If you don't have another base you can get oversized ones from Vintage Speed along with the power valve. Hang in there.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

Well, I machined up two plates and blocked them (Front & rear secondary's) off at the intake.  The motor starts an idles ok.  I turned each mixture screw in until it started to stumble then backed them off.  When I rev the motor it still stutters and pops, then I get back fire in the carb.  Once I get past this dead zone by manipulating the throttle it runs perfect, I am somewhat confident my timing is correct.  When I back the mixture screws all the way it still sputters and backfires in the carb. 

When I was tinkering with all three carbs prior to blocking them off, with the car in gear, I was getting 18 lbs of vacuum, my power valve is a 4.5.  Is this power valve adequate or is this something that would have little effect with this?

Thanks a lot guys for any help you can lend.
Here is a quick video (sorry not the best), but you can see the backfire and hesitation I am talking about.  I am running lake headers with baffles so if you hear anything funny it is the sound bouncing around in my garage.

Well, I remember that level of frustration. But several guys here seem to be able to make the tri power setups run right.

First thought is that when you taped off the end carbs, you put manifold vacumn all the way up both carbs. So you were sucking fuel out of the end carbs, but adding no air. I guess in theory the butterflies might make a perfect seal, but I doubt it. It explains why all the black smoke, since you're really rich. Cutting down the idle mixture on the center carb idle screws helped, but didn't solve the rich condition. But, you say it drove ok, and didn't stumble.

When you pulled the tape, you basically went back to where you were if I understand right. Since the engine ran when it was rich, I'd rule the ignition out. I think you really need to take a look at the butterflies on the end carbs for fully closed. Or do the block off like was suggested above till it runs good on the center carb.

A big stumble on acceleration, followed by a backfire thru the carb, is often a lean condition. If the end butterflies aren't closed you probalby can't get enough fuel thru the center carb idle/transition/accel pump to cover that lean a condition. Once the rpm is up, and the main jets/Venturi is providing mixture you can probably get away with it. I guess I'm trying to say leaking a little air from the end carbs is a big problem at idle and off idle transition, but not so much by half throttle, if you can get it there.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Ok guys here is the run down.

I put tape over the top of the secondary carbs.  The engine was an absolute chore to start.  I needed to drastically increase the idle screw, and really fiddle with the two mixture screws.  I had thick smoke rolling out of the Lake Headers and the vacuum was around 8 (max).  I kept leaning out the idle screws and got it to run ok, but the exhaust was still dark.  I took it around the block with no stumbling.

I pulled the tape off of the first (front) outer carb and it ran smoother, pulled tape off of the last (rear) secondary carb and it ran even better.  Smoke went away and I fiddled with the idle mixture screws again, then turned the idle screw out a ways to slow it down and it ran smooth, with 18 lbs vacuum with the car in gear.
I run it down the road and it pops and backfires out of the carb, then I manage to throttle it up past the stalling stage of acceleration and it either takes off or shoots a 1' flame out of the carbs. I am ready to throw this POS in the trash and get a simple 4 barrel carb.  

Do any of you guys have any ideas that could help me salvage this money pit intake and carbs,or do you have a good intake and carb setup to sale me, haha.

Ryan, one thing I did at first was to get the engine to run good with just the center carb on it and the secondary carbs blocked off with plates. Once you get it to run good on the one carb you don't have worry about that one other than maybe a slight mixture adjustment. If it runs good on the one carb but falls on its face when you add the others you know where to look.
The dist. is just the regular yblock dist. housing with late 70's Ford Duraspark guts, wired to a Ford Duraspark module.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

Hey Dan,

Thanks for the info. I do run a Holley Fuel regulator and it is set right at 2 lbs, so I think I am good there. You bring up a great point with the power valve, it is a 4.5.  I will call vintage speed and get a 7.5, to see if that helps.  The duraspark distributor you are talking about is a mechanical advance much like the Mallory Unilite?  I've been looking at those, but not really wanting to pay that much until I cover all of the basics first.  I cannot wait to get this thing sorted out, I want to drive it!!

Thanks again guys!

Ryan, thanks for the info. The problem I had with my 3X2 was getting a low enough idle speed. It didn't want to idle below 800 rpm's, didn't accelerate right and would flood after shutdown when hot. I tried a half dozen carb bases & throttle plates (even the 7* plates). I finally picked up 2 new secondary carb bases from Vintage Speed. That cured the idle problem & acceleration concern. The flooding I installed 1/2in. spacers under the carbs & a fuel pressure regulator set to 2 1/2lbs. Runs like it should now.
Next question is what size power valve are you running. At 15in. vacuum you should run a number 7 1/2 ( half the manifold vacuum). Maybe the one your running is opening too fast or slow to run correctly. What model number 94 carbs are you running? Secondary's should at least be the same model number.
I converted my ignition system to a Ford Duraspark system and run it with mechanical advance only, timing set at 16* (running a good size cam) with total advance at 38* if I recall correctly. Before that I ran an aftermarket dual point with the vacuum advance hooked up to the center carb after I did Teds modification to do so. Ran good with both systems but I prefer the Duraspark system for its convenience.




Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

I have the 3x2 set up sounds similar to yours also a TH350 But running a Mallory dizzy with mech advance so no vacuum. Had some stumble off idle once and was PCV related. The 94s are notoriously twitchy and react poorly to fuel pressure (mine will flood at anything more than 2.5 psi. Might be fuel related or I once had a vac modulator on the trans go bad immediate out of the box failure--it was pulling ATF into the engine. And short shifting or missing 2nd and jumping to 3rd.I might try to isolate all the vacuum sources. I have a spare port on my manifold that I ran a vac gage through the firewall and watched it while driving. When the trans was at highest load (1-2 shift) the gauge freaked out.
Not sure if I'm explaining that this makes sense LMK if it doesn't

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC