Well I finally got it figared out. I went through 3 starters before I got one good one. But it cranks good and fast now.

Well I finally got it figared out. I went through 3 starters before I got one good one. But it cranks good and fast now.

The only ground for the starter is the negative battery cable.  That is why the negative cable is bolted directly to the block.  All grounds between body and engine is to connect the body grounds to the engine and thus to the negative battery cable.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

One other question the ground strap from the driver side head to the firewall would that be tied in to the starting circuit as a ground cause the insulation is all worn off and it's fairly corroded. So I might replace that tomorrow as well if it's a ground for the starter.

You can try getting a 6v starter.  That's what I was given when I took my 12v starter in to be rebuilt.  Was told its too much to rebuild it cost wise but he custom orders new starters with 6v field coils (I figure he just ment he ordered 6v starters) but he said a 6v starter will turn these engines over faster than a 12v starter would.  I have to agree as I cant let up off the key fast enough before the engine is running.  Only thing I don't like is the "Zing" as the bendix is thrown out once the engine starts running.

1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

I took the starter back in and it is weak so I will get it tomorrow and try it out.

No prescription here, but a "similar" experience... restoring a 62 Lincoln with a big ole 430 in it... reputably rebuilt... would crank abit and then stuff would start melting, smoking, groaning... never got the motor started.  Changed out stock ground/hot cables to 0 ga... that should do it.  Nope.  Turns out, I had not properly cleaned the paint/primer from the ground strap mounting areas, and the high amps were just raising hell. Remedied, but the kicker was that I had been cranking a new motor at low rpm's for so long diagnosing the problem, and of course dumping so much fuel into the intake, I had washed the cylinders, diluted the oil, and worn the rings. My motor builder was, let's say, very disappointed in me. Live and learn... now back to your normally scheduled programming.

Cheers... Brian


Cylinder Index = 84

Current Experiment = `57 Tbird, Grand Rapids, Michigan

If the starter was smoking, it's going to have to come out anyway. That will clear the solenoid. I like The idea of preluding the motor, again. Then see how hard it is to turn. Even with the plugs out, there's a lot of friction from the valve train. If it turns easy, good. If not, you can loosen the valves, get the pushrods out, and have only the bearing and ring friction. That might help isolate the problem.

You also mention the engine not cranking, and "clicking". I'm guessing you mean the solenoid is clicking. That's a low voltage indication. That puts us back to the battery-solenoid wire, or the grounds. Or a battery that won't pass a load test.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

If the starter is still engaged as may be the case as suggested, you will hear it as your turn the crank.

The starter drive depends on centrifugal force from the engine starting to disengage itself from the flywheel. If the starter has been engaged and the engine did not start, sometimes turning the engine by hand will also turn the starter. This may account for the extra effort to turn it by hand. I think you still have a high resistance somewhere, or a starter problem. Check all ground connections. If you mentioned it was 6 or 12 volt, I missed it. A 4ga battery cable is nowhere nearly large enough for 6 volts. Also, starter spin tests that do not load the starter do not prove much.



Tom from the chiggerfarm located in the beautiful Heart of Central Texas

When you cannot dazzle others with your brilliance, baffle them with bullcorn!