Yes.
But you can check it first before you pull the distributor.  See Moonshadow's post.
If it's a tooth or more off, report back and we can help you set it correctly.
You did say you had it running at some point did you not?

How would you correct it if it was one tooth off? Do you need to pull the dizzy out and move it one tooth or can you just rotate it? I will try all that and see what happens.

It won't try to start if it is 180 out but it could try to start if it is 1 tooth off, which is easy to do by mistake, or the timing is off.  You can also use a timing light while cranking to see where the initial timing is.  It does not have to be running for that.



Lawrenceville, GA

Don't pour too much in and make sure you set the fuel container down away from the car. A flash fire wouldn't help. If you pull the number one plug sticky a finger in the hole and crank the engine until air pressure pushes your finger out. Look at the damper markings and make sure they are somewhere around the TDC mark. Now, pull the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. If it all seems close then move the timing mark to TDC by rotating the engine with a socket . Then point rotate the distributor until the number one wire lines up with the rotor. That's a good baseline to try again. Chuck



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Well when I got up today and checked the voltage I had 12v at the coil. I don't know why it only showed 6v yesterday. I am getting a constant 12 v to the coil with the ignition on. As for spark I am getting a strong spark. I am almost positive there is fuel in the carb. It tries to start and will almost catch but will not start. I try iced moving the dizzy around to see if it would start but no luck. There is no chance that it is 180 out on the dizzy if it is trying to start is there? The only thing left to do is pour a bit of fuel in the carb and see if it takes off.

Look for the factory resistor.  You probably have two resistors now, which is why your voltage is even lower.  Since you only had 6v before, you surely don't need to be adding a resistor.  Remove the one you just installed.  Don't know why it is smoking.  Maybe a short.

Did you check for a spark, as I suggested?

A very simple way to determine if it might be a voltage issue is to run a jumper wire from battery + to coil +.  This eliminates the entire ignition circuit and provides full battery voltage to the ignition.  If it starts, then it probably is a wiring problem.  If it still doesn't start, then it is probably some other problem.  Remove the jumper wire as soon as you have finished the test.

Again, acquire a shop manual.  It will have a wire diagram that will help to identify the resistor wire.  I think it is pink, but not sure.  And the trouble shooting is great, probably better explained than anyone here will do. 



Lawrenceville, GA

I could not find a resister wire at the parts store but I got a universal ballast resister. The problem is I have 12v before I hook it up but as soon as I hook it up I only get 8.5v and 4.5 on the other side and than it starts to smoke at the ballast why would this be?

This is in a '63 F100, right?  A '63 F100 has a resistor wire, not a rectangular ceramic resistor.  If that wire is still in use, it can explain the voltage drop.  With points, it should be fine, though.  Also, if the truck is wired correctly, the resistor is bypased while cranking,

Are you getting a spark? You can check with s timing light, or best with a spark tester or by removing a wire from a plug and holding the bare end just above the surface of the exhaust manifold and observing the spark.

The shop manual has pretty good trouble shooting instructions.  Do you have a shop manual?  If not, get one.



Lawrenceville, GA

This is what a ballast resistor looks like. If you are running the stock solenoid and ignition you should have one. Reduces voltage to prevent point burn.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

The round barrel-shaped thing is the noise suppressor for the radio and has no effect on the running(or not running) of the engine.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO