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Engine will not start

Posted By RayCarter18 10 Years Ago
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charliemccraney
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Sweet.


Lawrenceville, GA
MoonShadow
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Great! Glad you got it going again. 

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
RayCarter18
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Ok well it was about a tooth off. As soon as I fixed that she started up great. Thanks for all the help.
MoonShadow
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Swapping wires is just a quickie. Resetting the dizy is the way to go. 

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
Steve
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Why not just get the engine to TDC and verify where the dist. is set?
Really, it's not that mysterious.  If it's off, just pull it out and re-install.
When you have to rotate the distributor that far to compensate for even one tooth off things like vacuum advance cans start getting in the way etc.  
So you are better off getting it right.
When I used to run a conventional distributor, I would pull the distributor just to change or set points- it's really much easier that way.
As you drop the distributor down in there, the rotor will rotate as the gears mesh, then it will usually stop because it can't engage the oil pump drive.
Then just bump the starter and it will drop down the rest of the way.  
So as you are dropping it down, the rotor will be rotating towards the position you want but be about 15 or 20 degrees shy of the final position when it stops.
After you bump the starter to drop it down the rest of the way, just rotate the crank back to TDC to verify.
Here is a picture of the distributor with # 1 in the correct position and the firing order which may need verifying too.
But Ray- check it first before removing the distributor.  You may not need to!
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/4338e8ec-b1b4-4715-9ae5-d852.jpg
MoonShadow
Posted 10 Years Ago
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It's probably easier just to move the plug wires one hole in the direction needed. It will run like that.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
RayCarter18
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Well it is a new engine in that I completely rebuilt it. Right after I rebuilt it I had trouble with getting it started till I found out it was 180 out. So I got it where the #1 cylinder was in the #1 wire and she started up but it still was never easy to get her runny I would have to pump it a lot and give it lots of fuel to get her running once she would catch she would run alright unless the throttle was pulled all the way back. But since than I had readjusted the pint gap to 15 and put a new set in and installed a new fuel pump and 3
New starters (haha). So I don't understand if it was only a tooth off can't you adjust
The dizzy one way or the other to compensate for that? Oh and I live in Bentonville AR
MplsMike
Posted 10 Years Ago
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I had a similar problem. The engine cranked and cranked but didn't start.  Turns out my point gap was way, way off.  Fired up right away once it was set right.

MplsMike
'56 Parklane
Minneapolis, MN
MoonShadow
Posted 10 Years Ago
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I forgot to ask but was this engine running before you parked it or is it a new engine? Where are you located? If you like you can setup your tagline with City and State. Makes it easier to figure out if you are "in range" of any of us.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
Dobie
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Pull the dizzy and reinstall it. When you push it into engagement with the drive gear on the cam it will rotate a bit so you need to take that into account. Note where the #1 plug wire is on the cap, find TDC on the compression stroke for #1 cylinder. Mark the side of the distributor below the #1 wire where it goes into the cap and check to see if the rotor is reasonably close to the mark. If not, pull the dizzy and reinstall until the rotor lies up with the mark. That will at least get you in the ballpark and it should start if all else is copacetic. Get it up to temperature and adjust base timing with a timing light. Don't forget to disconnect the vacuum line at the dizzy and plug it with a golf tee or some such to eliminate any vacuum advance.


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