I would like to know if there is a dual master cylinder that will be a direct bolt in for my 55 crown vic. Not looking for power. Just a replacement for my single. Want to drive this car with peace of mind. Thanks

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca

Do some research on the peace of mind part.  I put a dual master cylinder in my truck.  Several years ago, a failed flare resulted in a leak in the rear brake circuit.  No brakes.  Fortunately I was in my driveway at low speed when this happened.  Similar experiences have happened to others on this site.
I'm not saying that a properly setup dual system is no safer than the single, but there is clearly more to the picture than simply swapping the master cylinder.  What is it?  I don't know.  Some suggested the brake pedal ratio.  I haven't researched that.
My advice, if you do swap without knowing that it is done correctly, don't let it give you a false sense of security.

That's a 4 bolt master cylinder, right?  I don't think there is a direct replacement dual master cylinder for the 4 bolt pattern.  The '61 to, I think '66 trucks use a plate which mounts to the firewall with 4 bolts and has two studs for the 2 bolt master cylinder.  If the dimensions are right, that plate should allow you to mount a conventional 2 bolt master cylinder.


Lawrenceville, GA

Hummm....well the single that's on it now IS brand new. Just replaced when I purchased the car. Its just that a got a ill scare last weekend when a blankity blank blank cut me off!!! Being a new owner of a car that I LOVE, I just couldn't bare wrecking her!! I want to keep her as original as I can, thus, no power booster, etc..ok Charlie, I will defer to more experienced minds. Thanks

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca

A dual master cylinder is not going to help you stop in a shorter distance.  You don't need a 4 bolt unit, a two bolt unit will do -  at least in cars it's ok, I'm assuming the master in your truck is not that much different..

If your keeping drum bakes  all around, make sure you get a master for all drum brakes.  Call ECI in Connecticut for a recommendation.  Also Master Power brakes (I think that's the name).



54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

DUAL BOWL MASTER CYLINDER CONVERSION
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXfXKlj2D1I

Many seem to think that a dual master cylinder is an absolute necessity for safety reasons. I am not saying it is a bad idea but I am 70 and have been driving since I was 15. Never had a problem with a single master cylinder and the only one I personally have heard of was a neighbor who had a new '56 scruby that the master cylinder failed. The only personal problem I ever had was when a rear brake line failed on my '74 Ranchero because it rusted through on a hard stop. Scared the heck out of me. Finally got it stopped but if there had been anything in front of me I would have hit it and hit and it would not have ended well. With silicone brake fluid there is much less chance of master cylinder or wheel cylinder failure. I have had master cylinders and wheel cylinders leak but never had a catastrophic failure. Just my two cents worth.

Slumlord, I'm only 5 years behind you. I had a broken brake line on the rear axle of my 55 bird in 1968. I'd just left town traffic, and was on the back roads going home. Got lucky.

That said, I had a rear wheel cylinder fail on a 1968 Volvo in 1971 or so. I had very little braking using just the front disc, and this was a factory designed system by one of the firms that developed dual systems. So dual systems aren't a cure all. My current hot rods are the same way. More than once I've pulled out of the garage and carefully tested the brakes, and found out one end or the other isn't bled or adjusted right, and there's not much there. Even so, all the cars have dual systems-something is better than nothing.

If you're on the west coast, I've had good luck with these guys. Not knocking MPB, just shipping cost.

http://www.abspowerbrake.com/index.html



miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

When I converted my car to Granada disc brakes, just used the, off the shelf, dual master for a standard brake, 1977 Granada. It bolted right up to the firewall and even the brake pedal rod was the correct length. Just removed the "Tee" fitting on my brake lines and coupled two new lines up to the Master. I used a Willwood adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes, but I have read that you don't even need this if you are retaining your stock rear wheel cylinders (?) 

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Thanks for the link grumpy, I watched all 3 parts and it seems very straight forward. Do you know if the gentleman in the video was correct when he said he thought the same parts would fit a 55-56? If so, this is a project i know I can accomplish. Being new to the hobby I want to do as many of these things myself as I can. Thanks for ALL the responses I got

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca

Hello all, first let me say that I have not done the dual master cylinder conversion. I have been researching it though and do plan to do the up grade.

That said I believe it is the combination valve, typically down by or on the frame rail of an OE dual system, that is the key. The combination valve is what isolates one side of the system from the other during a failure. With out it there isn't much difference between a fruit jar master or a dual.

I've had one ride in a Maverick, years ago, where the brakes failed. Don't remember which end. The factory system worked. It wasn't great, but I was able to limp home. Good luck with it and let us know what you wind up doing. -Dave.