need some guidance please and thank you.
started a newly built motor just now and it did not go smoothly. first it fired but would not run, very quick to stop with a spit and flames thro the carb. I rotated the dist. in a clockwise direction and it fired and ran but man did it all get hot. the exhaust turned blue from the manifold to the mufflers. do I need to rotate dist. further in the clockwise direction and am I advancing or retarding the dist.
stuey
UK

I'm not sure of your skill level but did you put the distributor in 180 out? Also the firing order is counter clockwise I'm not sure if it would run at all with the wires reversed but its worth a check. When you say advance the distributor I'm assuming you mean turning it way off the timing mark. That would indicate a distributor and wiring problem. Take the number one plug out and make sure you are on compression stroke then check the timing mark at or just above TDC. Remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing towards the number one wire. Hope this helps a bit. Chuck


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

thanks for reply Moonshadow
skill level is way down, I come from a pedal cycle background. 1st motor came at the ripe old age of 60, a 56 f100 from Klamath falls Oregon.
pointer is at 10 degrees btdc on the damper and the rotor is at the number 1 plug lead. the rocker arms on number 1 cylinder are at lash ie both valves closed. I put numbered collets on both ends of plug leads.   I guess what I am asking is being too retarded causing my exhaust to overheat.
while it was running it sounded great. the neighbours complained and the wife left the house
stuey

Sounds too advanced, I would start it at 4 degrees btdc.....just to start.   this might help   http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/ford_tuneup54-59V8.htm

Retarded can cause it to get hot as well as a lean mixture.  Is the damper new or rebuilt?  Start it again and use a timing light to see where it is.  It sounds like you should be in the ball park.



Lawrenceville, GA

Stuey, Do what charlie said. Counterclockwise will advance the timing. They usually like about 10 degrees initial timing.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

thanks for the tips every body
Lostdog thanks for the link I've added the site to my favourites
Charley the damper is new, the lean mix idea sounds good so I've ordered some bigger jets. also pulled no1 plug but it has not coloured. apparently they don't with todays fuel.
didn't have time to use strobe everything happened so quick. trying to hold 2000rpm for 20 mins with 1or2  leaks and the temp rising like a rocket. needed another pair of arms.
thanks Pegleg, counter clock wise it is.  will have to move the dist a couple of teeth to get more advance as dist body is hitting bolt head filling spare hole in rear of passenger head.
will try again later. I'm on granddad duties for next 3 weeks
by the way the wife told me this morning every thing in the house was vibrating!!
stuey

thanks for the help
I've now got it idling (about 620 rpm) at 10 degrees advance, I think it may go lower but i'm a bit flummoxed re the dashpot thingy its holding the throttle slightly open.
the overheating was down to ignition too retarded and the electric fan running in reverse!! still amazed at how hot everything gets.
and now I've got a coolant leak from a timing cover bolt, the awkward one behind the water pump.
can any of you guys recommend a good bolt sealant, I've been using ARP sealant but without success. I've had several coolant leaks especially around the pipe threads .
one good thing to report is i ran a compression check and got 178lb/sq inch plus and minus 2 lb the Wallace calculator came up with 176 .3 lbs.
stuey
   

I like Permatex Aviation thread sealant. I figger if the FAA approved it it can't be bad...

right I've used the Permatex Aviation sealant and it was a lot better. I got a longer bolt ( .250 longer) and that did it.
Please could someone design an ally water pump with a lower hose port so I can get that pesky bolt out without removing the water pump.
stuey