9" diffs were pretty rare (and expensive) here in Oz in the early drag racing days, so the Mainline ute Dana with 4.11:1 gears was plentiful and the strongest rear available.
I have replaced mine with a 3.56:1 Dana out of a 54 Courier, but with the AOD i am going back to the 4.11's.


South Australia

IIRC, I saw that parts list or description (rear drum self adjusting) over at the Ford Barn. Someone here probably knows if they chime in.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

On the subject of the Dana. I had another member recommend also to keep it. I was not aware that there was that much was available for the older models. I did have someone say that it was easy to upgrade to self adjusting rear brakes. I looked but didnt really find anything online. Anyone know how this is done? if i keep the Dana that would definitely be on the list of upgrades.

Durham Missouri

Hi Frank,
I hear you, Often I see 9" used on car that don't need them. I was actually recomending the Big Window look at updateing the original Dana 44 as there is so much available for the early dana 44s now. As he is only looking for 300hp on a street drive car. An original dana 44 refirbished and with the option he wants would be more than enough.
some better links to parts. http://aftermarket.auburngear.com/vaf/product/list/?year=60&make=6&model=143
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-284568-gears-install-kits-carriers-spider-gears-dana-spicer-gears-dana-44-d44-ring-and-pinions.html

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

Griz,
           The 9" has some advantages although you are correct about the Hp losses. Mainly the ease of gear changes, the fact it fits most '50's fords easily and the cost and availability of parts. The 8.8 is a good substitute but for racing requires some mod's to retain the axles if one breaks and the gears are a little more difficult to swap. I've run both and in a late Mustang or Ranger I would stick with the 8.8 only because it's already in there.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Guys,
A little alternative thinking here, I have a dana 44 under my 56 Mainline ute and have been doing some research, as to up dating this axel, as it was the heavy duty option at the time and is held in high reguard in the 4WD market. It also has been used in performace cars; jaguar (E type & xj) corvette, dodge viper and ford XR8 (Australia). It has a very large aftermarket segment (look). http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/categoriesre.aspx?id=934
My knowledge so far. Up to 1972 dans 44 utilised 10 spline pinions and 19 spline axles. I assume that there is a great deal of similarity here. Aulburn Gear do a posi for early diffs   http://aftermarket.auburngear.com/hp-series/dana-272.html
Yokes for early 10 spline 1310 uni's are available. 1350 if you look harder. 
http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=2943&Product=YY_D44-1310-10S&Brand=Yukon_Gear_and_Axle
A word against the 9" (I'm in trouble here) ford dropped the 9" in favor of the 8.8 as it has high parisitic loss. A lesser diff will give you more power to the ground and better fuel economy. A 9" is a subsancial lump of iron, a smaller diff will help handling by reducing unsprung weight. I would assume that a Rebuilt, improved Dana 44 could be done for similar cost to a standard 9" fitted to your car. 
My research ends with how compatable the dana 44 is but as it was used in a number of formats in a number of brands, I assume that it was a one size fits all. As a model Run It started with Jeep CJ (40's) and has run till current day. with a crown wheel of 8.9" (ish)  it's no lightweight.

Regards
Warren

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

Ok, so the difference is only basically a weaker housing & carrier on the 57 rear, along with smaller bearings? If that is the case, I am not too worried.  As the most I launch at is about 3000 rpm and right now with my radials and the new torque in my Y, I don't hook up until 3rd gear! Will have to learn how to launch Old Vicky again with the street tires! 

 I did break the previous housing I had in the car, but I believe that was due to the fact it was quite rusty before I sandblasted it and installed it (probably weak spots in the metal). Also the fact I was still running the slapper bars and got a LOT of wheel hop.
New housing came from Desert Valley Wreckers in Arizona with NO rust at all, just dirt! LOL

Only issue I am having with the new housing is axle seals. Replacing them a second time, as they are leaking again! Made sure the ones I just got were US made and not offshore, think that may be the issue. 
 

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Frank the Moser Nodular is back in. I was trying out a 4:56. Anyone out there have a 4:88 I can test?

  Vic Correnti

Rob, I think Vic answered you question. If you replaced the 57 gears with a 9" set then you have a small bearing 9" rearend. I wouldn't worry about it unless you plan on 6 grand starts on slicks and a healthy shot of Nitrous. 
        Some of the later housings are considered Heavy duty, Trucks, Big Block Fairlanes and Mustangs from the 60's, Mine is from a 72 Thunderbird with a 302 2 bbl!!
  Vic, I think you broke it! Time for a Nodular Case?

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I have been running a housing out of a 58 for 40 plus years with the small bearings. And 31 spline axels for the last 15 years using a small bearing with a bigger ID. I have showed it no mercy all that time. The bearings have held up to 25 years of nitrous and a 500 HP Y-block. Although I have broke everything forward of the rear tires. This picture is the latest casualty of a 5000 RPM launch at Norwalk.

  Vic Correnti