Good Mornin All;   Got My tbird running,  afraid I have too much cam!!Engle   231 at .050-  MSD--  Demon-- 331 stroke--- C/4-- 3.78 rear.  Sure sounds good, but idles very rough--  Idles good at 1000 RPM- when I put in gear it drops 5 to 600 RPMs  Has a 1700 converter stall now.  Buddies in car club say that I need a looser converter???  Don't understand,, isn't that like having a slipping clutch???     Would appreciate explanations and suggestions.  Car is a 55 bird, 12 volt--  C/4 believe a flat-o- matic conversion.  By way  Frank, I talked to Jack a Auto Elect. and I will need to measure distance from bell housing to flywheel teeth. He will build geardrive starter from those.   Sorry to be so long winded.   Thank You-   Thank You---  Thank You   God Bless    Eddie

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Eddie,

       Try a little more initial timing, and hook your vacuum to PORTED vacuum on the carb.

You may have to modify the weights in the distrib to allow less mechanical advance. Start with around 10 to 12 deg's initial. You should be able to tune it down to a slightly slower idle. Leave the converter alone for now. I'll bet it blows the tires away at 2500.

              Frank 

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Eddie:

A couple of old tricks you might try.  If it doesn't get too noisy, open up the valve clearances a couple thousandths at a time 'til your ears can't take it any more.  Also, before you change the cam, you can try advancing it 2-3 degrees.  Glad you got it running.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Eddie,

              Back to your original question. The "looser" converter would not drag the engine down as much in gear. But it will create more heat in the trans due to the slippage on the road. It's not quite the same as the clutch anology, you're dealing with a fluid coupling and not friction material. The 2000 or 2500 converter would also help the car launch harder since the engine will rev higher at the start, more into it's new power band. Do what John said with the valves. If it was me I'd start with the timing, then loosen the intakes up a couple thou to decrease the overlap, could be all you need.

                           Frank

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Hi Frank and John;  Will give it a try!!!   Thanks sooo much.  Somewhere I read how to adjust valves, with marks on the front pulley with engine not running, anyone know what I'm talking about or could direct me to the article????  Again  I'm so grateful for the knowledge and willingness this group has.  Will keep you posted.  Talk soon      Eddie

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

The best way to adjust valves on a non stock longer duration cam is to just bite the bullet and set each intake and exhaust at TDC for each cylinder.  This takes maybe fractionally longer than the other static methods but is completely reliable. Mark the harmonic balancer or pulley on a Bird at 90 degree intervals.  Start with #1 at compression stroke and 0 deg. Set both valves.  Bump it with the starter to rotate the crank 90 deg and do #5 both valves, then another 90 deg for #4. And so on through the firing order. In 1 3/4 turns of the crank you will end up at #2.  Starting a new engine I do it cold.  After the engine has been thoroughly warmed up and everything is hot I will let it sit for maybe 5 minutes so the headers cool and then begin the adjustment and I don't worry too much about further cooling. It takes about 15 min total if it isn't too far out and it usually isn't. 

I don't like to do it running it gets oil everywhere and I get burned.  Also a feel for the pull on the feeler gauge is harder to develop.

  

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

  Thanks Doug ,

  That is what I am looking for.  Waiting for fuel line for thedemon carb so will adjust valves in mornin'.. Frank appreciate you explanation on the converter. Really would like to idle better with out changing the converter.  Talk to you All soon!!! 

                  God Bless

       Eddie

lake Forest Ca. 92630

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

I believe this is what you were looking for.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic8614-3-1.aspx

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hi Ted;  Thanks for digging up the info on valve adjusting. Just what I was looking for. Have adjusted valves 2 thousands looser-- have not been able to run yet-- parts from Jegs tied up do to airplanes being grounded for mech. reasons.  Hope to get them tomorrow!!!! Also bumped timing to 14 deg.  Hope starter will crank, have on trickle charge for full bat.  THANK YOU  very m

uch.  Will email results later.   God Bless    Eddie

Eddie Paskey

Lake Forest, Ca  92630

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Your friends in the car club are right. Either change the cam or change the transmission torque converter to one with a higher stall speed. When you changed to the C4 transmission did you change radiators to one with a built in cooler. If not a plate type cooler of at least  13000 lbs GVW such as a B&M supercooler should be used. Depending on whether you can change the converted without pulling the engine vs changing the cam will help you decide. A C4 converter with a 2400 RPM stall will allow your engine to idle in drive without trying to creep. A 2400 RPM converter WILL NOT CHANGE YOUR ENGINE IDLE SPEED, the cam you have decides that for you. A higher stall will be easier to drive and faster because the engine gets to the rpm the cam wants to be at quicker. A good converter is not that expensive. Everybody has their own too much cam story. Pete