Well, I had an engine rebuilt a few tears ago and never started it but from time to time I would turn it . It was always very tight , Well the other day I finally started up the engine and it was running very smooth and quiet. I have started and stopped the engine a few times maybe total running time 1hour. Today when I started it cold there was a low end knock that went away after a few minutes as the engine warmed up. I decided to take a look at the oil when I drain it out the oil was black like it had 5000 miles on and old engine . This is a newly rebuilt engine with 1 hour on it sorry if I am repeating myself. I was amazed how dirty the oil was examining the oil further it had a silver sheen to it and when I drained the pan I found small bits of what I am sure is bearing material . I am sure that the machine shop did not clean the oil passages correctly its evident how dirty the oil was with no run time .  Now the question , since I have really no run time on the engine can I drop the pan install new rod bearing and hope the crank has not been damaged .  It only knocks when it cold as soon as it warm its sounds great . This guy screwed me because I was charged for a new water pump and as soon as the engine was started the leaked and I had to replace it . The impeller on the pump was old and pitted so I knew it was not changed . I was charged for an oil pump but I have my doubts about that also . So what do you guys think can I get away with a new set of rod bearings and a new oil pump. Cheer me up . Thanks in advance .

How and when did you do the cam break in?

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

The engine was filled with 30 weight engine oil with a zinc supplement , The engine started right up and I ran it at about 2000 rpm for 20 mins the engine runs very smooth I doubt any cam damage. Just a cold lower end knock no steel it the oil it just seems like bearing dust . Its like fairy dust only worse

Unfortunately, this is something that cannot be known until you tear it down.



Lawrenceville, GA

I'm with Charlie on this one. 

Based upon:
- what you've related to us, I'd tear it down for inspection. 
- the appearance of the oil, even without the knock, I'd take it apart.

It's in one piece, now.  I wouldn't risk running it.  


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Sounds like the damage is already done and will only get worse (don't ask me how I know). Pull the oil pan and the main caps and look for damage to the bearings. Then on to the rods. Running with damaged bearings will cost you in the long run.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

remove oil filter and cut it open,use asharp wood chisel cut around thethreade end(so no metal frome opening)  if a major failure the filter will have lots of iron and bearing material. that being the case pull engine for comp tear down. the dirty oil could just be frome the moley that should have bit coated on cam.  if only miner cuttings it would be worth a try checking bearings in the car. the knock could be a leak at oil pump pickup tube, or stickey relief. i would make the desision after seeing whats in the filter. good luck.

As mentioned, oil could be black from breakin lube of some sort.
Also, maybe lifters are bad, if new and of off shore mfg 

So I pulled the pan, nothing out of the ordinary, but I did find small piece of wood maybe about 1/2 square. The pan did not have any metal or slivers . I had my doubts about the oil pump not comming up to pressure so I have changed the pump . I also removed the old oil filter can ,installed an adapter and a modern oil filter. I have run the engine it all seems fine. It maybe possible the oil was black because of some assembly lube or something like it,as was stated by a few guys . Does anyone know what the oil pressure should be . I plan on installing a gauge thanks

I've found some strange things in the oil pan, but a block of wood is a new one on me. Since it's apparently back together and running, and you don't say whether you checked the bearings, I guess you've decided to run it.

Oil pressure varies widely, even on new motors. I'd check the factory manual for minimums. Both my motors have low mileage and hp pumps, and run 50-60 lbs cold, and nearly that hot, at idle.

You might look into doing an oil sample. I've never done that on a gas motor, but we did it every change on the Cummins diesels in the boats. It was amazing what they told, even though ours were always normal.

Hopefully, someone here with a petroleum background will chime in if that's possible or useful.

Good luck.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ