That is what I would think, but NO signs in the oil, or the antifreeze! I pulled the thermostat and drilled a couple of 1/8" holes in it to equalize pressures. (this helps) Antifreeze I drained out of the rad was clean as new, not a drop of oil in it!

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Ted would expect any emulsifying of the oil showing up on the dipstick or breather cap with a leak like that?

I just tried a re-torque on mine. It reduced the flow a bit but was still pretty steady. Coming from around the number 8 spark plug. So, Engine is out and in the shop. Since after this week I'm going to be on the road again for most of June I'm not sure how I'll proceed. Hoping to pick up the new blower motor from Ted at Indy, bring it home and put it in. Still haven't solved the hood problem but I'll probably just run with it off. I started the engine with the exhaust off and noticed some black smoke coming out of number 7. It was smoking, oil smoke, at start up so I guess its time to freshen this one. See you guys at Indy but no car again.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Rob.  It’s been awhile since I’ve used the steel shim head gaskets and this is because of water seepage issues that I was encountering with those gaskets.  Your problem does sound like it’s related to the head gaskets though.  On the engine while it’s cold, I’ll suggest turning it over with all the spark plugs out and looking for any wisps of coolant out of one of the holes just to insure that water is not going into the cylinders.  Looking at the spark plugs while you’re doing this may also give you some kind of indicator.  Sort of doubt that you’re going to see water at this point but if you do, then it’s time to pull the heads and replace the gaskets.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted,
I tried to re-torque the head bolts to 70 & 75 ft pounds, but didn't even budge the bolts! My head bolts are ARP 12 points supplied by John Mummert. I am going to assume that Rob had torqued my head bolts down a lot more than 75 ft /lbs. I have steel gaskets, not the composite type, do you suppose this may have crushed the gaskets? Motor is perfectly fine if I start it up and let it warm up until the thermostat opens. After that it appears I can stand on it as much as I want! If I do this before the motor completely heats up, I pressurize the rad.  

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Thanks Ted, I hope this works and I caught it in time! I'd hate to have to pull the heads on my new motor and since Rob Burbine has passed, I can't go back to him!

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

For head bolt torque, I use 70 lbs. for the short bolts and 75 lbs. for the long bolts.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks for all the other responses, I will have the cap checked out. It is a 13 lbs cap on a new aluminum rad.

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Ted,
I purchased all new head bolts from John Mummert when I bought the engine kit. What do you recommend retorqing the head bolts to?

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

I’ll suggest retorqing the head bolts at this point.  Do you have grade eight head bolts?  It does sound like a head gasket pressurizing the cooling system. 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)