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Oil problem

Posted By MoonShadow 9 Years Ago
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Ted
Posted 9 Years Ago
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DANIEL TINDER (9/18/2016)
Ted,
Instead of axle/bearing grease?  White grease couldn't contaminate the oil then?

I’ve no problem with using axle bearing grease as an oil pump rubber seal lubricant as long as it’s clean and not used in excess.  Depending upon the brand, it may have a higher melting point and could ultimately end up in the oil filter or in the bottom of the pan if used in an excess.  But simply using it to coat a rubber seal should not be considered an excessive amount.
 
The white grease I use is clean (Lubriplate brand) and has a lower melting point than the typical wheel bearing grease.  If a little bit of it ends up in the oil, then it’s fully melted at 140°F and essentially of no consequence.  While I use white grease as a sealer on some of the various gaskets and seals, I do not use it on engine bearings or as a cam lube.  It can stop up the oil filter if used in excess and if used as an engine assembly lubricant for the bearings, then the potential is there to hydraulic the bearing surface if it cannot squeeze out adequately when the various bearing caps are being torqued in place.



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


DANIEL TINDER
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Oops. Sorry. Confused about which surface exposed. Still, question is relevant for pan/valve cover gaskets, etc.
Is white grease contraindicated for surfaces exposed to circulating engine oil?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
DANIEL TINDER
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Ted,
Instead of axle/bearing grease?  White grease couldn't contaminate the oil then?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
Ted
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Ted (9/17/2016)
I’ll suggest also double checking the flange nut at the oil pump.  Pulling in just a little bit of air at that point can significantly lower the oil pressure.

I liberally coat the rubber grommet with white grease before installing it on the tube and into the pump housing.



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


PF Arcand
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Meteor is quite possibly on to something there. A replacement pump I had here came with a tag which stressed making sure that pump seal is installed straight & carefully snugged into place. 


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2721955meteor
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nut for oil suction is important,as over lightning will crush the tube,i made a tool to drive into the tube while heating it to reshape(pan off) then do not over tighten i snug the nut if it drips over night just a small amount of tighter till no drips. i do not use the ring with the metal crush sleve. runs 25 psi at idea 55 to 60 hot.run 5/30 oil,with gear typ pump.
speedpro56
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You're right on that one Ted, had that happen to me. Man what a relief it was when I found it!


-Gary Burnette-


Ted
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I’ll suggest also double checking the flange nut at the oil pump.  Pulling in just a little bit of air at that point can significantly lower the oil pressure.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Ted
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Another thing to check is gasoline contamination of the oil.  If you have changed the oil since your recent road trip, then you can probably discount this.
 
I would send you a high volume oil pump to try but it’s already loaned out to someone having a similar low oil pressure problem.  A high volume oil pump (20% additional oil volume) may be just enough to overpower whatever fluid loss that’s taking place that has in turn lowered the overall oil pressure to the point that the rockers are no longer getting oil.  If you’d like to try your hand at making your own high volume oil pump, here’s the link.
 
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2014/09/19/hi-volume-oil-pump-for-the-y/


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


MoonShadow
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Well its confirmed the Demon Spawn engine is indeed the work of the devil. Took off the rocker shaft and blew compressed air into the oil feed hole. There was no back pressure on the air gun and I could hear faint sound of air blowing inside the engine. Hooked up a start switch and cranked it over while watching. Absolutely no oil is coming up to the rocker stand. I stuck a wire through the feed hole and it went way in past the gasket surface so it not a gasket problem. Obviously the "easy fix" ain't gonna happen on this one. The first rebuild I had a shop do all the work and balance it. I assembled it myself. After the main bearing problem (less than 500 miles) I took it back for repair and freshen up. The Y-Block guy at the shop took care of it. While fitting the rings he decided since the pistons and rods were going in he put it together for me. This block and all parts were hot tanked both times. Once back in the car I was seeing the low oil pressure I mentioned. I didn't put another 500 miles on it this time before the head gasket blew (mostly because of using G heads with a McCullouch supercharger). There is nothing physically obvious about this engine except it has some sort of oil problems. I'll have to park it for the winter. I'll work on the throttle linkage and other setup items for the new blower motor and put it in next spring. I'm hoping to get this problem engine down to Ted next year and have him go through it just to see what he can find. I hate problems without explanations! Like why did I have no rocker oil problem until I did the head gaskets?


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire


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